Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 289 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

GreyGhost said:
I don't want NC. Now a manual mill and lathe would be welcome but then I would be divorced and no garage to put them in. Aiming for a Kennedy box full of fasteners. Even that may be too expensive although it would be buy once, cry once and I should be set for most of my life.
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Like most tools, once you get them and use them a couple of times you wonder how you got along without them.

I had to give up my big lathe when I sold the shop, replacing it with a mini-MIC one. I wish I could find a better one but they are hard to find*. The mill is a Busy Bee and not up to production standards but that is also part of my skill set, not being a trained machinist. I enjoy the learning curve.

One neat thing is that having the shop lets me make things for the kitchen, like custom cookie molds for shortbread.

Making coffee takes me three scoops of coffee. Sometimes I can't count to three before I've had a coffee so I made a three scoop spoon. One, I can usually count to.

* If interested in a mini lathe they all look the same but some are built better with different options. There's a YouTube video on what to look for.
 
I have a craftex mini lathe and a King bench top mill , they both work fine on exactly what they were designed for , small stuff . I’m adding a 30” x 30” CNC machine for play work also , it’s fun puttering , none of it a serious machinery , nor am I trained in any of it .


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GreyGhost said:
My BIL went with the camera as they have no visibility to the other side of the door. You can see a shadow but that's it. Makes them feel a lot better if they know who is there before opening.

MP, are you partially invested in any smarthome ecosystem yet? For instance google hubs will display the doorbell cam picture. They go on sale for $60 so you could have a few around the house so you don't need to find phone. I don't normally have my phone on me in the house. If you are already partially invested in an ecosystem, that doorbell may make sense. If not, carry on. I am definitely not going to advocate for Google. Such a pain in the ass for me and marginal sounding.
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I have the Google ecosystem - I think it's fantastic.

Nest thermostats, August locks, several TVs, Stereo, 5 security cams, lights, plugs, alarm clocks, pool pump, Android Auto, fridge, stove and washing machine are all connected. The human interface is my phone, 6 google minis around the house, 2 hubs and a Lenovo smart alarm clock -- all of them listening for my orders.

I don't know whether Google is processing what they hear so they can re-program me... I'm hoping not.
 
crankcall said:
I have a craftex mini lathe and a King bench top mill , they both work fine on exactly what they were designed for , small stuff . I’m adding a 30” x 30” CNC machine for play work also , it’s fun puttering , none of it a serious machinery , nor am I trained in any of it .


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I'm doing a bit of CNC experimenting lately, got a little 400x300x100mm 3 axis table that holds a router and laser head, mostly engraved trinkets for the wife.

The wife has a couple of Cricut machines (little CNC xy flatbeds that cut, engrave, and draw). I started experimenting with motorcycle logos, pretty easy! I found some SVG files for my DT restoration online, cut my first set of new graphics in 2 hrs -- next set will take 5 minutes. This week I'm going to try doing some ultrathin waterslide decals for real reproduction quality bike graphics.
 
Mad Mike said:
I'm doing a bit of CNC experimenting lately, got a little 400x300x100mm 3 axis table that holds a router and laser head, mostly engraved trinkets for the wife.

The wife has a couple of Cricut machines (little CNC xy flatbeds that cut, engrave, and draw). I started experimenting with motorcycle logos, pretty easy! I found some SVG files for my DT restoration online, cut my first set of new graphics in 2 hrs -- next set will take 5 minutes. This week I'm going to try doing some ultrathin waterslide decals for real reproduction quality bike graphics.
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I'd love to get something like that but my occupation has been computer weak and I fear the table will become a bulky paperweight due to my lack of knowledge.

A manual milling machine is simple for straight lines but curves are difficult. Setting up the programming is where my mind goes blank.
 
nobbie48 said:
I'd love to get something like that but my occupation has been computer weak and I fear the table will become a bulky paperweight due to my lack of knowledge.

A manual milling machine is simple for straight lines but curves are difficult. Setting up the programming is where my mind goes blank.
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It's reasonably simple. Even more so now with the software doing most of the work. In a past life I wrote G code to make machines do what I wanted. 3d printer is driven by gcode but I have only written a few lines (just setup stuff like purge and retract before and after print). There is no point in doing it the slow manual way for one off parts. For production, it could make sense to go in and clean up some of the choices it makes that aren't ideal but I don't make production parts. A 3d printed item requires a crap ton of lines of code compared to a mill/lathe program that is doing subtraction. Subtracting a diagonal slot is a few line of code, building one is a mess.

The one non-evil thing autodesk has done in recent memory is Fusion 360. Pretty simple to model parts (draw sketch and extrude, draw another sketch on a surface and extrude/cut, etc) and they even put in FEA and G code generation. It's free. They keep changing the package so now it can only store models in the cloud and you can only have one active at a time and have a very limited number of total models. Since it's free, you can play with it and watch machine paths to see if you were likely to crash it.

I'm trying to get away from Fusion as the current limitations hurt some. I have a bricscad license and am using that. I find it far more difficult though. Theoretically it should work similarly but I keep banging my head against a wall (yesterdays hiccup was arrayed objects display properly but don't translate to STL so they won't be printed).

I hate the way sketchup works but that is another free option (IIRC, again, they keep changing their operating model). Some people love it.
 
Some good news for a change. The ceiling we are having repaired by the drywall contractor is cement board, not drywall. It’s all perfectly dry now after having been left for a few months after the new roof was put on so the contractor doesn’t have to replace any boards so far. So it’s patching, taping and smoothing mostly.
 
timtune said:
www.pinterest.fr

Emco Maximat Super 11 Lathe | Lathe, Lathe machine, Milling machine

Oct 1, 2017 - This Pin was discovered by Tony. Discover (and save!) your own Pins on Pinterest
www.pinterest.fr www.pinterest.fr
Not sure this image will load but this is the lathe I have. Very handy.
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Perfect. Big enough to make everything I need. If it had a removable way gap it would be even better but that's not a deal breaker.

Dro is a nice addition but less helpful on a lathe than a mill. I wouldnt say no to one on either but if budget only allows for one, it is an easy choice for me where it goes.
 
GreyGhost said:
It's reasonably simple. Even more so now with the software doing most of the work. In a past life I wrote G code to make machines do what I wanted. 3d printer is driven by gcode but I have only written a few lines (just setup stuff like purge and retract before and after print). There is no point in doing it the slow manual way for one off parts. For production, it could make sense to go in and clean up some of the choices it makes that aren't ideal but I don't make production parts. A 3d printed item requires a crap ton of lines of code compared to a mill/lathe program that is doing subtraction. Subtracting a diagonal slot is a few line of code, building one is a mess.

The one non-evil thing autodesk has done in recent memory is Fusion 360. Pretty simple to model parts (draw sketch and extrude, draw another sketch on a surface and extrude/cut, etc) and they even put in FEA and G code generation. It's free. They keep changing the package so now it can only store models in the cloud and you can only have one active at a time and have a very limited number of total models. Since it's free, you can play with it and watch machine paths to see if you were likely to crash it.

I'm trying to get away from Fusion as the current limitations hurt some. I have a bricscad license and am using that. I find it far more difficult though. Theoretically it should work similarly but I keep banging my head against a wall (yesterdays hiccup was arrayed objects display properly but don't translate to STL so they won't be printed).

I hate the way sketchup works but that is another free option (IIRC, again, they keep changing their operating model). Some people love it.
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I started out using Easel, very, very simple, it was driving a GRBL CNC router and laser engraving and cutting flat stock.

Started using Corel and Design Space lately for XY Cricut plotter/cutter, also simple.

My shop has manual and CNC turning and milling machines, I want to try some simple stuff. I've done a few simple Gcode programs for turning, boring and cutting threads on bolid bar using FANUC controllers, easy but slow.

Is Fusion Gcode generator smart with materials? For instance, Easel adjusts the travel speed, depth of cut is different for each material, tool type and tool size, -- does Fusion Gcode generator do that?
 
Mad Mike said:
I started out using Easel, very, very simple, it was driving a GRBL CNC router and laser engraving and cutting flat stock.

Started using Corel and Design Space lately for XY Cricut plotter/cutter, also simple.

My shop has manual and CNC turning and milling machines, I want to try some simple stuff. I've done a few simple Gcode programs for turning, boring and cutting threads on bolid bar using FANUC controllers, easy but slow.

Is Fusion Gcode generator smart with materials? For instance, Easel adjusts the travel speed, depth of cut is different for each material, tool type and tool size, -- does Fusion Gcode generator do that?
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Sorry, I dont know. I saw it was an option to generate gcode but had no machine at the time. For it to make smart feed and speed decisions it would also need to know machine hp and ideally machine make/model. Not insurmountable but I have no idea if they built that library.
 
Mad Mike said:
Those are cool machines. We used to have one in our proto lab -- it had the milling head attachment -- like a gigantic Craftex lathe/mill.
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Can't remember where but we also had one with the milling attachment in the lab where I once worked. It would be a nice add on.....
 
backmarkerducati said:
Like others noted it is not legal to just splice the lengths together without an accessible junction box. Even then it is a bit hack (but legal) to just put up a junction box to splice two too short lengths together with no other purpose. When I wire there is no junction box that is also not an outlet or light, never just a junction with the exception of converting cable type such as NMSC to AC, even then if that is 120V I put it in a usable location and include an outlet or a light.

Even at the elevated prices these days the cost of new cable for the longer runs is not very much and better than buried or difficult to access junction boxes. It will save a bunch of time as well.
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It's around a 70' run. So it would save me purchasing a 75-100ft roll. I'll just get the new roll then.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
It's around a 70' run. So it would save me purchasing a 75-100ft roll. I'll just get the new roll then.
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I always buy the longest roll I can. Means fewer scabs left over. It does mean there can be a lot of money in copper waiting for the next project though. I probably have a lifetime supply of thhn.
 
I’d like a bigger lathe but then I’d only attempt bigger projects , right now I’m getting very good at making small piles of aluminum shavings.

I’m really interested in table top CNC three axis , they seem to be coming down in cost ($1600 for 30x30) . I’m not experienced at all with code so the simpler programming the better and they talk about basic knowledge required. What I really don’t want is buying the machine that in three yr the maker is gone and zero support exists .

So far I can find some people to do my small projects , they bill me minimal amounts being quite fair , if I thought it through I’d continue having others do my basic engraving and sign making stuff . But the farmer in me wants independence.


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Next up for house fixing is changing out a vanity , I’ve found a very cool stone sink which will need a lower vanity made to accommodate the 8” deep sink . I’m thinking of making it out of 1/4cut white oak , which I love , my fear is introducing too many wood finishes in different rooms . Wife likes cabinets painted white , me not so much


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crankcall said:
I’d like a bigger lathe but then I’d only attempt bigger projects , right now I’m getting very good at making small piles of aluminum shavings.

I’m really interested in table top CNC three axis , they seem to be coming down in cost ($1600 for 30x30) . I’m not experienced at all with code so the simpler programming the better and they talk about basic knowledge required. What I really don’t want is buying the machine that in three yr the maker is gone and zero support exists .

So far I can find some people to do my small projects , they bill me minimal amounts being quite fair , if I thought it through I’d continue having others do my basic engraving and sign making stuff . But the farmer in me wants independence.


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The nice thing about most of these machines is they are 'parts bin' creations, with little to no proprietary components. Gears, drive mechanicals, and controllers are generic -- get any part off Amazon.

If you want to get started conquering the learning curve, get a 3018 class 3-axis machine off Amazon for $180 ($300 with an interchangeable laser head). You can cut, mill, and engrave acrylic, wood, aluminum, and brass. Easel software is an easy-to-learn software to get started. You can sell them for $150 if you decide you need more.

The most complex thing I have made is 10x6 switch panel for the boat. I used clear acrylic with the back sprayed black, replacing 40-year-old ABS. Milled 19mm round cutouts for the switches, a 1/6" channel for the perimeter gasket, and mirror engraved switch labels into the painted side. It took 5 hours to do the first one, 3 hours for the next... probably 2 hours next time.
 
crankcall said:
I’d like a bigger lathe but then I’d only attempt bigger projects , right now I’m getting very good at making small piles of aluminum shavings.

I’m really interested in table top CNC three axis , they seem to be coming down in cost ($1600 for 30x30) . I’m not experienced at all with code so the simpler programming the better and they talk about basic knowledge required. What I really don’t want is buying the machine that in three yr the maker is gone and zero support exists .

So far I can find some people to do my small projects , they bill me minimal amounts being quite fair , if I thought it through I’d continue having others do my basic engraving and sign making stuff . But the farmer in me wants independence.


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A CNC mill does a couple of things like cutting grooves in MDF to make a door look like it was assembled. That can just as easily be done manually but if you have a lot to make, it's boring. CNC reduces the boredom.

However CNC can carve curved shapes that would be very difficult to do manually. Three axis is even better.

I don't see production stuff in my future but weird parts maybe.
 
nobbie48 said:
A CNC mill does a couple of things like cutting grooves in MDF to make a door look like it was assembled. That can just as easily be done manually but if you have a lot to make, it's boring. CNC reduces the boredom.

However CNC can carve curved shapes that would be very difficult to do manually. Three axis is even better.

I don't see production stuff in my future but weird parts maybe.
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If you are doing constant radius cuts, you can rig up something with the part attached to the chuck/faceplate on the lathe and a motor/cutter mounted to the tailstock. More rigid and more power than any home NC mill. Obviously a decent amount of setup for every cut though. It would make more sense if you were banging out kitchen cabinets so you do a dozen cuts per setup.
 
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