Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 240 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Wow. Great work @Hardwrkr13 ... especially if it's your first time!
Thanks. I had planned for different (ie. lighter) steps but they gave me a good deal on the nicer 6'x7"x16" granite steps. Had I have known I would have arranged for a buddy to help as they're around 800lbs each. Managed by myself but was every bit of my might to do it. Still sore.
 
Tradesperson question.

A friend of a friend has a problem in thinking that problems solve themselves. They rarely do. Water leaks in his basement have been so bad that the place has black mold. The only saving grace is that the place has radiators, not spore circulating hot air heating and the upper levels are apparently OK.

Now another problem has risen and he will likely need a plumber to go down there. If the furnace croaks over the winter it's another adventure.

I haven't seen the place and haven't taken any hazmat courses but if asked, I would be thinking hazmat suit, Scott airpack, Decontamination area outside etc. Picture the Michelin Man with scuba gear.

Has anyone run into this? For me: "Make the place safe for me to work and I'll come back."
 
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Gear question. $300 mask with appropriate filters for starters.

The house is a tear down. Property value only. Remediation is a gallon of BBQ lighter and a match.
I went into a house worse than that once. I needed to go in, set up gear and leave. Probably five minutes total. My lungs felt heavy for months. Bad choice by me. If I did it again, proper respirator. I wouldn't carry tanks as there shouldn't be problems with oxygen or bad gasses. Tyvek coveralls/booties never hurt if it's really bad but I wouldn't normally go that far. Either wear old clothes and chuck them or strip outside into a garbage bag and wash them asap.
 
Heater is working well. I'm not directly monitoring energy usage but from electric meter it appears to be ~0.22$/hr off peak (the only time I run it now). So 250K btu of pool heat is $1.10 vs ~$6 with natural gas. Although all pool sizing guidelines said to install >100K btu heat pump, the 50K btu only runs a few hours a day to hold 85F. The test will be when trying to extend the season in the fall or heat it up in the spring. The smaller heat pump was ~$3000 cheaper so that pays for a lot of on-peak hydro if I just leave it running 24 hours a day.
Still only running the heater off peak. It stayed on low during the mornings on the weekend but was off in the afternoon. Heater kept it at 85, sun heated it up to 87. Today with the cooler temp and decent amount of rain pool dropped 3 degrees F. Turned heater on at 20:00. We'll see how it does. With 62F air and 83.5F pool, calculated heat into pool is 33K BTU (3F temp rise at 22gpm) out of a heater rated for 50K BTU at 80/80. Seems reasonable. I didn't bother clamping the wires to see how much power it is drawing. That can be an experiment for another night.

EDIT:
Pool at 84.6 this morning with heater running when I turned it off. Will check low temp tomorrow when it's available.
 
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Boring but a good idea. Snaked the dryer line to get rid of months worth of lint that had built up. I do it a couple times a year. A old co-worker had a dryer fire and I do not want any part of that. The first time I did it, it was obvious that the previous owners were not on the same program.
 
Boring but a good idea. Snaked the dryer line to get rid of months worth of lint that had built up. I do it a couple times a year. A old co-worker had a dryer fire and I do not want any part of that. The first time I did it, it was obvious that the previous owners were not on the same program.
How did you do that? I need to get that done also and I don’t feel like pulling the dryer as that involves a lot of items to be moved.
 
How did you do that? I need to get that done also and I don’t feel like pulling the dryer as that involves a lot of items to be moved.
Amazon crap. Brush with plastic rods that screw together and a drill. Turn dryer on room temp dry, run brush through from outside and it blows out most of the lint. Normally one to two rods get wound up and retired each time. I need to buy another set as now I dont have enough rods left to do it from the outside so I have to do some from inside (furnace room behind dryer so easy to access pipe).
 
Depends a lot on the dryer. Our current GE sends more lint into the line than any other dryer I have ever had, the lint screen just is not 100%.

Also, don't forget any lint that is also stuck in the dryer itself.
 
Grout cracking in my bathroom. Is it just a matter of chiselling out the old grout and refilling it with this stuff or do I need to do something more complex than that?
 

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Grout cracking in my bathroom. Is it just a matter of chiselling out the old grout and refilling it with this stuff or do I need to do something more complex than that?
Depends on the reason it is cracking. If it is cracking because the floor is "moving" any fix will be temporary unless the fix addresses the root cause. Floor moves, non-flexible things crack.

Stopping (or mitigating) the floor from moving (I mostly mean up and down) is likely no trivial task and may even be due to how or on what the tiles were put on. Sub-floor not properly attached to the joists, joists too small, old structure, no decoupling membrane, etc.

The best practice/methods for what goes under tile has also changed over the years....

If it is the case depending on how much movement there is repairing the grout will be temporary but may still be worth while (depends on how long it will last). Fixing the root cause 100% may be a huge job....
 

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