Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 242 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Put me on the list as well. Unfortunately renovating a split level to something like that involves a very large bulldozer.

I've sketched up drawings for mine and coming up with more space or rooms is easy. Making the place look nice and work well seems to be impossible.

Do they even make side splits any more?
Not planning on renovating to that level, just wanted to show an example of the siding we like.

EDIT: I somewhat regret getting a side split simply because I’m missing a full basement. But it’s what was available at the time.
 
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Do they even make side splits any more?
No. They need a lot of land for not that many square feet. Everything now is shaped like a cube at maximum building envelope.

When we look back at the current stock for a similarly misguided idea, I think we will be pointing at stacked towns. The worst of everything in one package (stairs in unit, stairs to get to unit, all common walls, etc).
 
No. They need a lot of land for not that many square feet. Everything now is shaped like a cube at maximum building envelope.

When we look back at the current stock for a similarly misguided idea, I think we will be pointing at stacked towns. The worst of everything in one package (stairs in unit, stairs to get to unit, all common walls, etc).
I still haven't given up my dream of that addition...maybe when the inevitable recession hits it'll make it easier to get it going.

Right now costs are still insane, and just looking around...300k for a new addition...or 300k for a house upgrade...

Tough call.
 
I still haven't given up my dream of that addition...maybe when the inevitable recession hits it'll make it easier to get it going.

Right now costs are still insane, and just looking around...300k for a new addition...or 300k for a house upgrade...

Tough call.
Along with the land use problem a side split is built for mountain goats. You have to go up a few steps to change your mind. Also the house tends to be built around the stairwell and it's a vertical sound tunnel.

One can always add to any house style but with splits you tend to add a lot more stairs and they often look weird.

To make a reno look good on a split you only end up saving the basement floor. In other words, full demolition.

MP's problem is that his lot and neighbourhood will be hard to match.

In my case I would have $3 million involved if I demolished the house and built new. It would be worth a little over $2 Million when I was finished.
 
Not planning on renovating to that level, just wanted to show an example of the siding we like.

EDIT: I somewhat regret getting a side split simply because I’m missing a full basement. But it’s what was available at the time.
Same here and at the time properties were getting scarce. Interest rates were 13% and climbing.
 
Stacked towns …. If I stay here when I get old ( next week) and we thought stair lifts could help , I’ll only need 6 of them , maybe 7 if I ever want in the back yard ….


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Anybody know if this is a decent deal or not?


OR


Don't need 4k quality but wouldn't mind having something to watch a show/movie with the kids in the basement. Maybe play a video game now and again.
Wow. So cheap. I have very little faith in picture quality at those prices. Make sure you have a dark viewing area too as they wont be bright enough to compete with the sun.

Unless the projector aspect is really important, I would buy a new primary tv and move the existing tv to the basement. 4k TVs are surprisingly affordable and can look amazing. Until you look at projectors with eye bleeding prices, panel TVs blow them out of the water for performance (colours, brightness, contrast ratio, etc).


Edit:
FWIW, I bought a terrible projector to use temporarily (kids bedroom's or outside at night). Performance is as expected. 720p for $30 (msrp ~$120). Run chromecast into it as a source.
 
This is the current setup with a 42” TV.

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Also trying to figure out what to do with that wall as I’m not a fan of it…and wouldn’t mind to hide the cabling.
 
Isnt laundry room behind? Easy to run cables behind.

I cant see the projector looking better than that tv.
It’s the chimney behind from the lower fireplace. So not too easy to run cabling.

Kevin built a frame around the fireplace to install this accent wall piece. Have tried to run cables behind but it’s a maze of framing wood.

Plus I want to install the sound bar and woofer to the tv for better sound as I don’t feel there’s a need for a full on surround sound system.
 
It’s the chimney behind from the lower fireplace. So not too easy to run cabling.

Kevin built a frame around the fireplace to install this accent wall piece. Have tried to run cables behind but it’s a maze of framing wood.

Plus I want to install the sound bar and woofer to the tv for better sound as I don’t feel there’s a need for a full on surround sound system.
Really big tv can get you to an edge and hide the cables :).

Given that it's kevins work, you might be able to pop off a row of rocks, cut a channel and install conduit (ideally two runs so power and signal are separate) and then put the rocks back. If they were installed properly, this should not be possible.
 
Really big tv can get you to an edge and hide the cables :).

Given that it's kevins work, you might be able to pop off a row of rocks, cut a channel and install conduit (ideally two runs so power and signal are separate) and then put the rocks back. If they were installed properly, this should not be possible.
I second the big tv method. A cheap 75” will get very close to the edge if not over it and then hide cables.
 
Still only running the heater off peak. It stayed on low during the mornings on the weekend but was off in the afternoon. Heater kept it at 85, sun heated it up to 87. Today with the cooler temp and decent amount of rain pool dropped 3 degrees F. Turned heater on at 20:00. We'll see how it does. With 62F air and 83.5F pool, calculated heat into pool is 33K BTU (3F temp rise at 22gpm) out of a heater rated for 50K BTU at 80/80. Seems reasonable. I didn't bother clamping the wires to see how much power it is drawing. That can be an experiment for another night.

EDIT:
Pool at 84.6 this morning with heater running when I turned it off. Will check low temp tomorrow when it's available.
And that's a wrap on pool season. Turned heater off while we were away for a few days to avoid peak hydro rates. Pool dropped 9 degrees in about 86 hours. Turned heater back on as wife wanted one last swim and it gained back 6 degrees in 48 hours (~100 kwh of electricity at off peak rates). Heater can hold pool temp with solar cover on in low single digit temps but probably needs double digit temps to get it to climb (heater is rated for 50K BTU at 80f air, derates to 33000 btu at 50f air, not sure rating at <40f). Weather is supposed to be cold and rainy for a while so it doesnt make sense to keep paying to heat the pool. Heater turns off tonight, I'll close it on a nice day in the next few weeks.

Pool heater half the size that every pool professional and website I consulted said was required worked fine. Hardest test will be in spring when trying to raise temp initially from lows 50s to swimming temp. Depending on weather, that may take more than a week running 24/7. Obviously much longer if I only ran off peak.
 
And that's a wrap on pool season. Turned heater off while we were away for a few days to avoid peak hydro rates. Pool dropped 9 degrees in about 86 hours. Turned heater back on as wife wanted one last swim and it gained back 6 degrees in 48 hours (~100 kwh of electricity at off peak rates). Heater can hold pool temp with solar cover on in low single digit temps but probably needs double digit temps to get it to climb (heater is rated for 50K BTU at 80f air, derates to 33000 btu at 50f air, not sure rating at
Pool heater half the size that every pool professional and website I consulted said was required worked fine. Hardest test will be in spring when trying to raise temp initially from lows 50s to swimming temp. Depending on weather, that may take more than a week running 24/7. Obviously much longer if I only ran off peak.
Turned mine off Wednesday once there are no more highs above 20 in the 14 day forecast I turn it off. I will close it around Halloween. Spring warmup is usually around a week.

Sent from the future
 
Bathroom was was wildly loud on and off so I thought I’d get in there and replace it. Bought a new fan a while back and had it sitting around.

Open up the fan and realize I need to go through the attic to replace it. So I took it apart, cleaned it, and put it back together. Voila!

Turns out it was just the plastic housing rattling around in the case and all it needed was to be tightened down and cleaned up.

I’ll keep the fan as it’ll have to be installed eventually. Just don’t want to go through the attic.

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Hardi plank cement siding , no rot , no bugs , fire proof , smooth or wood grain , pre painted or paint your own. Best option today , any boob can install it . Well.


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Is it possible to buy it alone? Without the use of a contractor?

I'm reading more into it and getting more interested in this. I'd like to do it as a DIY with my dad, so I'll measure out the house this week.
 
Is it possible to buy it alone? Without the use of a contractor?

I'm reading more into it and getting more interested in this. I'd like to do it as a DIY with my dad, so I'll measure out the house this week.
Should be. Go to a real supply house (eg Bob's building supply not home depot). If they are trying to lock it down to authorized installers only (not sure what policies Hardi tries), your dad could open an account or you could get someone to place the order for you
 
Thanks @GreyGhost, appreciate the prompt response?

I pretty much have access to all the tools already except a few key items...scaffold being the main one that comes to mind.

A few issues that I'm thinking though:
1. Insulation - I need about 2-3" of Styrofoam / rigid insulation for an R10-R15 or so. How does this affect the windows / trim as now they'll be very offset and deep into the pocket.
2. What to best install at the bottom (that rock look siding?)
3. How to deal with the mast for the high voltage coming into the house? I assume it needs to be pulled away from the house by an electrician (@SunnY S or @backmarkerducati are electricians IIRC)
4. Would I need to remove the soffits in order to slot the siding underneath for a cleaner look?
5. Scaffold or genie boom better?
6. Type of strapping? 1x2? 2x2? etc?

Guess I have time for the current status as I would not be doing this in 2022...but I can take 2-3 months off for parental leave that ends in early May...so I could in theory take all of April off and do it then slowly.

Option #2 - pay someone to do it
Option #3 - do the internals (I know @sburns is waiting for this)
 

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