Careful, GM will send an OTA update to kill your car. They are convinced you need a pickup truck to tow anything. You are ruining the illusion.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
My ONLY concern is it's rather top heavy...not sure how much it would take to tip on a corner...but I took it pretty easy from my sis' house to here (8km). I didn't want to break it down to panels so it's fully flat as that's a huge amount of work...but def the safer / better option.
Need to get it up to the cottage soon...I'll just the side roads and take it super easy. But the EV range took a massive hit. 20km lost on an 8km drive.
Will need to pressure wash it, maybe paint it, and then it's good to roll for many more seasons.
I was going to use limestone screenings. Not sure if I can source HPB locally but I will inquire.
sburns
Well-known member
Ikea commercial?
Mad Mike
Well-known member
He can probably find a YouTube or TikTok video that repurposes it into something useful.
An ecological disaster?
A good pressure washer is a fun thing…
I wouldn't really worry. I only find the pavers deteriorate after 20+ years and they don't collapse. The damage is only noticed if you have to pull a stone for some reason and find the underside crumbling.
HPB doesn't compact like screenings and they shift if you walk on them until you get the stones are down.
It sounds like you were talking to my contractor. He only sells loaded Cadillacs.
If I was a roofer that intended to be in business in 10-15 yrs , not the gipsy with a ladder and a station wagon, I would only be selling roof systems that include water proof membrane and ice shield . It’s the proven technology now and yes subdivision builders are still doing basic, which lasts 12-15ys . But the warranty is crap , and “deluxe mountain developments “ a division of company xxx is only around till the subdivision is sold out.
For my money I want water on the outside of the roof . Building science has a better system , I’ll use it .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
For my money I want water on the outside of the roof . Building science has a better system , I’ll use it .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
The roofer I talked to spoke of replacing three year old roofs on luxury homes. Those homes now have decent roofs but the builder probably took similar shortcuts everywhere else in the house.
Try to find a builder roof that includes drip edge. The lack of care about details that matter but arent required by code is appalling.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I own 1 houses over 60 years old, 3 that are 80+, none have ever had felt or ice dam protection, all have been reroofed before developing leaks and have no moisture damage.
A well ventilated roof requires neither ice barrier or rhino type felting. Most roof damage comes from substandard ventilation and or insulation - fix that snd sll a roof really needs is shingles.
And a drip edge. Our last roof had a few more years left in the field but no drip edge meant shingles curled down at the edge and water was making it behind eavestrough. That much water directly against house is asking for expensive trouble. Installing drip edge to fix on a roof nearing replacement is not cost-effective.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Ive seen that happen too. On a properly finished and maintained roof, the aluminum or vinyl facia and should prevent water intrusion, even when shingles curl.
I've seen the issue you speak of, its usually from poor facia/eave/soffit install. Too few fasteners, gaps, and backsliding soffit. Drip edge does offer protection against marginal workmanship.
My facia was fine, aluminum was holding. Much of the water off the roof was dripping right beside the foundation. No major issues that I know of but dropping that much water, that close to the foundation is asking for trouble.
Exactly. I used to sell heating cables including the ones used for eaves deicing.
I hated that application. It was all to often used as a cure for bad design, poor construction or both.
In some cases there are changes in usage that create the problems. Old churches are a good example.
Many were never originally heated and never had problems. Then the congregation wanted heat and without any insulation, problems came with the heat. It also created problems with the woodwork because the humidity levels went through massive changes in winter.
Back on topic, here's our latest home project...
Old tub gone, converted to a walk in shower. Old false-ceiling bulkhead that was above the tub is gone as well, getting the ceiling back to full height so that we could go with the ceiling rain shower head setup. Found out when I was gutting the bathroom that there was a reason it was there - lazy half assed plumbing from when the house was built. When I yanked the tub I found plumbing that should have been below the sub floor which was just quick and dirty left in the void space behind the tub on the right hand side (its hidden, so who cares, right?) and the bulkhead was the exact same - plumbing that COULD have been tucked into the walls with the slightest bit more effort, but apparently it was easier for them to just make it a squirrels nest of pipes up there instead of being neat and tidy about it, because the drywall guys will just hide it.
Nothing an additional $400 for the plumber couldn't fix.
Now, I'm onto finishing the rest of the bathroom. There were many questionable design choices we made 20 years ago that we are now thankfully, at long last, undoing. But this project was arranged a little differently from the onset - I found a contractor that was willing to work with us for about 90% labour only for the shower build, retrofit as required, and all tile including the shower and the main floor area, including a tile baseboard. We did the gut, we supplied about 80% of the supplies (the shower door set, tiles, and I'm doing the remaining drywall, paint, vanity and toilet myself, and he did the tough stuff - retrofitting the space for the shower. We went with the Schluter system for things - it's expensive, but it pretty much guarantees that even if we have tile or grout failure 5 or 10. years from now, the water will still never go anywhere except still down the drain instead of through our kitchen ceiling below. It added quite a bit of cost versus a traditional mortar shower base, but it's well worth it for the insurance.
We also went with a linear "hidden" drain that is almost invisible - just two 1/2cm slots on the one end of the shower with matching tile on the cover, and the water just drops into a hidden pan and down the drain. It's really slick, but holy shiat, it was a $600 option by the time we were all done lol. But this is probably the one and only big reno we will ever do on this bathroom until the day we sell the house and retire, so we wanted it done the way we wanted it done, sparing expenses and living with it for another ~20 years didn't make sense. And reality is this will probably all be dated as hell again by that point and the new owners will probably rip it all out again lol.
And from an expense standpoint, we're doing OK. The contractor was basically $8K all in, including the plumber to install the new shower system and attic work for the rain head, electrician (new fan, new pot lights, added a second switch, capped some old wiring), and the contractor supplied the Schluter system (I think that was north of $1000 alone there, but Made in Canada I discovered, bonus), mortars etc, and all the trim pieces for the tile baseboard etc.
We will have spent about another $3000 between the vanity and taps, new combo bidet toilet (will be the second one in the house, once you've had one you'll never NOT want to have one), paint, drywall supplies and such, and a lot of sweat equity, but I think for a full 3 piece bathroom reno including a full conversion for $11-12K all in, I'm pretty happy with that.
I'll post some more pictures once it's finished. The "Questionable design choices of 2001" are very gong-show in 2022 LOL.
Old tub gone, converted to a walk in shower. Old false-ceiling bulkhead that was above the tub is gone as well, getting the ceiling back to full height so that we could go with the ceiling rain shower head setup. Found out when I was gutting the bathroom that there was a reason it was there - lazy half assed plumbing from when the house was built. When I yanked the tub I found plumbing that should have been below the sub floor which was just quick and dirty left in the void space behind the tub on the right hand side (its hidden, so who cares, right?) and the bulkhead was the exact same - plumbing that COULD have been tucked into the walls with the slightest bit more effort, but apparently it was easier for them to just make it a squirrels nest of pipes up there instead of being neat and tidy about it, because the drywall guys will just hide it.
Nothing an additional $400 for the plumber couldn't fix.
Now, I'm onto finishing the rest of the bathroom. There were many questionable design choices we made 20 years ago that we are now thankfully, at long last, undoing. But this project was arranged a little differently from the onset - I found a contractor that was willing to work with us for about 90% labour only for the shower build, retrofit as required, and all tile including the shower and the main floor area, including a tile baseboard. We did the gut, we supplied about 80% of the supplies (the shower door set, tiles, and I'm doing the remaining drywall, paint, vanity and toilet myself, and he did the tough stuff - retrofitting the space for the shower. We went with the Schluter system for things - it's expensive, but it pretty much guarantees that even if we have tile or grout failure 5 or 10. years from now, the water will still never go anywhere except still down the drain instead of through our kitchen ceiling below. It added quite a bit of cost versus a traditional mortar shower base, but it's well worth it for the insurance.
We also went with a linear "hidden" drain that is almost invisible - just two 1/2cm slots on the one end of the shower with matching tile on the cover, and the water just drops into a hidden pan and down the drain. It's really slick, but holy shiat, it was a $600 option by the time we were all done lol. But this is probably the one and only big reno we will ever do on this bathroom until the day we sell the house and retire, so we wanted it done the way we wanted it done, sparing expenses and living with it for another ~20 years didn't make sense. And reality is this will probably all be dated as hell again by that point and the new owners will probably rip it all out again lol.
And from an expense standpoint, we're doing OK. The contractor was basically $8K all in, including the plumber to install the new shower system and attic work for the rain head, electrician (new fan, new pot lights, added a second switch, capped some old wiring), and the contractor supplied the Schluter system (I think that was north of $1000 alone there, but Made in Canada I discovered, bonus), mortars etc, and all the trim pieces for the tile baseboard etc.
We will have spent about another $3000 between the vanity and taps, new combo bidet toilet (will be the second one in the house, once you've had one you'll never NOT want to have one), paint, drywall supplies and such, and a lot of sweat equity, but I think for a full 3 piece bathroom reno including a full conversion for $11-12K all in, I'm pretty happy with that.
I'll post some more pictures once it's finished. The "Questionable design choices of 2001" are very gong-show in 2022 LOL.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
Rain head install from attic? Not concerned with freezing?
All plumbing should be on the warm side of insulation (or if the contractor is feeling awesome put and insulated box over plumbing). If the plumbing freezes there, hes got some major thermal issues.
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