Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 18 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

@PrivatePilot Any chance that LED strip will be damaged / melted by the heat coming off the stove? Seems very close and over a period of time may cause issues with the light strip directly above it.
 
@PrivatePilot Any chance that LED strip will be damaged / melted by the heat coming off the stove? Seems very close and over a period of time may cause issues with the light strip directly above it.
I would be surprised if the heat damaged the strip. I could see the adhesive softening and it dropping though. The steam on the other hand :/ Time will tell. The waterproof strips would be fine but they have their own issues. I would probably just use a normal strip and if I had to replace a few dollars of lights every few years, no big deal.
 
@PrivatePilot Any chance that LED strip will be damaged / melted by the heat coming off the stove? Seems very close and over a period of time may cause issues with the light strip directly above it.

It's an induction stove so there isn't actually any heat from the stove itself, only what you put on it, and what you put on it doesn't (or at least, shouldn't unless you're literally melting a pan or something) get hot enough to ever get uncomfortable above to a hand, much less anything else. It's a pretty unique technology in how it works, but it's awesome. When you take a pot off the stove even when the element is on max...there's nothing. If you were cooking on a lower setting you can actually touch the stovetop and it's just warm.

The induction stove was an upgrade we made a few months before we started the reno. BEST TECHNOLOGY EVER. It certainly takes some getting used to (pans go from stone cold to hot volcanic lava in about 3 seconds flat on the "power boost" setting), and a few items of cookware wouldn't work on it, but that once we got the learning curve sorted out I will *never* go back to a traditional stove. Nothing burns onto it since the heat isn't actually generated on the stovetop itself, so if (for example) you boil over a pot of milk making a pasta side dish (did exactly that just last week) it doesn't burn on - just lift up the pot mid-cook and wipe it up with a damp cloth, and continue on.

Anyhow, because of that the only thing the LED's see is moisture from boiling water, and they are actually a waterproof style strip (designed for outdoor use if you wanted) so it's of no concern. The only thing I'm thinking may happen is that the clear waterproofing part may yellow with the continued exposure to steam, but so far, no problem.
 
Good job on the Reno @PrivatePilot

One of the first things we did when we moved into our house was get rid of the microwave.
I don't like nuking my food and even more so I hate the way it tastes when food is reheated in the microwave. Needless to say, no popcorn in our house.


Based on cost, you cannot compare an IKEA kitchen with a local custom guy. As soon as you tell a cabinet maker that its him or IKEA depends on costs, they won't even quote to project as they cannot compete.

Another good thing about the IKEA kitchen it is leaves you with the freedom and assurance that you can always change your design or you can get the same cabinets and same panels or door fronts in a few years time.
More importantly if it gets damaged for what ever reason you know that you can just drive to the local IKEA and pick up the damaged piece and IT WILL MATCH 100%.
A custom cabinet maker cannot assure the same thing. He will not be able to produce the same color a few years later.

It also comes with a 20 or 25 year warranty.

They current line (Sektion) was brought in about 5 years ago. They previous (Akurum) was available for the 20-25 years prior to that.
The current line has been changed in a way that parts cannot be interchanged. The new line has some cool new "features", drawers inside drawers and different sizes or cabinets.


When I did my kitchen at this current house, we didn't think twice and went with IKEA.
I picked up all the boxes/frames and other miscellaneous hardware from their "clearance as is " section. Every single box was purchased this way. All 20. I saved close to $3,000. Even got some door/drawer front this was. All the rest front were purchased normally.

Laundry room cabinets were also purchased this way, and office cabinets as well.
I can post some pictures when I find them.
 
I would be surprised if the heat damaged the strip. I could see the adhesive softening and it dropping though. The steam on the other hand :/ Time will tell. The waterproof strips would be fine but they have their own issues. I would probably just use a normal strip and if I had to replace a few dollars of lights every few years, no big deal.

If I was to do LED strip I would use one of these to go with it.
Aluminum track with a lens.
It allows you to secure the LED strip better and the lens provides a better illumination of the LEDs.
The lenses are available in different finishes. Clear, opaque etc.

I have installed these and they look great.

1587474317210.png
 
If I was to do LED strip I would use one of these to go with it.
Aluminum track with a lens.
It allows you to secure the LED strip better and the lens provides a better illumination of the LEDs.
The lenses are available in different finishes. Clear, opaque etc.

I have installed these and they look great.

View attachment 42812
I've looked at those before and am always appalled at the price so every project ends up going a different route. I always use the high density LED's (~36lights/ft) so the light is very even to start with and I don't care about diffusion.
 
I would be surprised if the heat damaged the strip. I could see the adhesive softening and it dropping though. The steam on the other hand :/ Time will tell. The waterproof strips would be fine but they have their own issues. I would probably just use a normal strip and if I had to replace a few dollars of lights every few years, no big deal.

They're mounted using additional screw-in mounting tabs on the cabinets so no reliance on the adhesive there as past experience is that, yep, the adhesive fails - the only place where I'm relying on the built in adhesive is over the stove as I didn't want to screw into the microwave, but so far, so good. I do expect that eventually they will come loose however, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. ;)
 
Speaking of IKEA cabinets...anyone use them in the garage? I'm looking at storage options for the garage, and the NEWAGE line from Costco seems to have gone up in price.


I don't think I would put that kind of money into cabinets in a garage.

Garages often get the cabinets from the kitchen.

Unless you want it to be a showroom for your future bike or toy car.
 
Speaking of IKEA cabinets...anyone use them in the garage? I'm looking at storage options for the garage, and the NEWAGE line from Costco seems to have gone up in price.

Hahaha, I see the tool cabinet people are learning marketing wank. It is approaching audiofoolery levels. "heavy-duty 24-gauge steel". In what world is 24 ga heavy duty? It may be sufficient if you are careful, but not heavy duty. Hell, the 12 gauge garage posted above had a single 4' wide counter height cabinet that weighed 50% more than the entire wall of costco cabinets (760 lbs for one vs 563 for seven boxes and a counter). Admittedly, his was overkill but it was legitimately heavy duty.
 
I've looked at those before and am always appalled at the price so every project ends up going a different route. I always use the high density LED's (~36lights/ft) so the light is very even to start with and I don't care about diffusion.

Yes they can be be expensive as they are a "specialty" item.
I supposed you just need to know where to get them for a decent price.
 
They're mounted using additional screw-in mounting tabs on the cabinets so no reliance on the adhesive there as past experience is that, yep, the adhesive fails - the only place where I'm relying on the built in adhesive is over the stove as I didn't want to screw into the microwave, but so far, so good. I do expect that eventually they will come loose however, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. ;)
If you need to cross that bridge, silicone can work. Be prepared for some work finding a formulation that will stick to your waterproof strips. I had to try five different kinds before I got one that would setup on the silicone waterproof strips for the old deck. If it's not compatible, it just stays gooey forever. Once you find the right one, it will never fall again and could be cut off if the strip needs replacement.
 
I don't think I would put that kind of money into cabinets in a garage.

Garages often get the cabinets from the kitchen.

Unless you want it to be a showroom for your future bike or toy car.
Ya I may end up going the DIY route for it...I love the look of it...but not for that type of money.
 
Ya I may end up going the DIY route for it...I love the look of it...but not for that type of money.
For actual heavy duty storage, costco has a great shelf. Less than $200 in the store ($120 on sale IIRC). Build some doors for the front, add some plywood to make the shelves solid and you are good to go.


imageService
 
For actual heavy duty storage, costco has a great shelf. Less than $200 in the store ($120 on sale IIRC). Build some doors for the front, add some plywood to make the shelves solid and you are good to go.


imageService
Have one of those already! It's great and fits like a charm. May pick up another 1-2 and then I'll have more than enough storage.

But currently deciding whether to:

1. Rip out the ceiling and existing insulation (6" of dead space and those thin hard panels for insulation) and install new insulation / ceiling OR spray foam (quoted $3k just for the ceiling). Bedroom floor is very cold in winter time.
2. Try to smooth out the textured ceiling (looks like cement board) and leave as is.

Then I'll drywall the walls after the ceiling is decided on and done.
 
Have one of those already! It's great and fits like a charm. May pick up another 1-2 and then I'll have more than enough storage.

But currently deciding whether to:

1. Rip out the ceiling and existing insulation (6" of dead space and those thin hard panels for insulation) and install new insulation / ceiling OR spray foam (quoted $3k just for the ceiling). Bedroom floor is very cold in winter time.
2. Try to smooth out the textured ceiling (looks like cement board) and leave as is.

Then I'll drywall the walls after the ceiling is decided on and done.


Try calling around for quotes again
You never know, you might find someone that is willing to give you a better price due to the "down time"
 
Have one of those already! It's great and fits like a charm. May pick up another 1-2 and then I'll have more than enough storage.

But currently deciding whether to:

1. Rip out the ceiling and existing insulation (6" of dead space and those thin hard panels for insulation) and install new insulation / ceiling OR spray foam (quoted $3k just for the ceiling). Bedroom floor is very cold in winter time.
2. Try to smooth out the textured ceiling (looks like cement board) and leave as is.

Then I'll drywall the walls after the ceiling is decided on and done.
Insulate. No question. It will make you happy for the rest of your long time in the house (and save you money). I would do spray foam but if you don't want to pay for it, fill the floor joists with Roxul. Be careful with vapour barrier if you do Roxul. You want one, you may not have one and you probably want it on the top. If you aren't pulling up the floor above, you can wrap the joists and subfloor from below but it takes a lot more time (and material, but super 6 is cheap). Good call on ceiling before walls. The walls help to hold up the perimeter of the ceiling.
 
Ya I may end up going the DIY route for it...I love the look of it...but not for that type of money.

They look awesome on a brochure picture or in a showroom type garage.

If I was to get these and with the way I use my garage, they would never look as good as they should.
And like @GreyGhost said, I would question their "heavy duty" claims.
 
For actual heavy duty storage, costco has a great shelf. Less than $200 in the store ($120 on sale IIRC). Build some doors for the front, add some plywood to make the shelves solid and you are good to go.


imageService

Those are the exact same racks I just put in my garage during the recent "big clean". Got them at Lowes though - I had a $400 credit on our Lowes Card (long story) and a few of those plus some storage bins and such took care of that.
 
Those are the exact same racks I just put in my garage during the recent "big clean". Got them at Lowes though - I had a $400 credit on our Lowes Card (long story) and a few of those plus some storage bins and such took care of that.
I have the Husky version (approx 82" long) from HD a while back. They're great and easy to put together. Might pick up another one for the shed as it also needs some organization. Or those cheap 30$ plastic ones will do as well. But these are nicer.
 

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