Boat Rentals

Like most toys, renting looks expensive but if you are only doing it a few times a year, it will be far cheaper. If you are at 10+ days a year (or have specific location/timing restraints that are hard to satisfy by renting), you may come out ahead by buying.
That would have to be 10+ days / year....every year for a handful of years.

I'm seeing the types of boats I 'like' (which means literally nothing) as I don't know poo.

Hell even my boss offered me his 90s bow rider for 5-6k (he's not sure yet).

Rent for $500/day (including fuel)....that's 10 rides where the break even point comes in (without including insurance, storage, etc). Add the requirement for a new truck to tow the thing...and renting is much cheaper.

As for the license...I'll just do it online somewhere. As per @oioioi are there free resources that anyone is aware of?
 
I hold a boating licence but I would actually like to read through some material as a refresher.
And also maybe have my kids look through it as it wouldn't be a bad intro to boating for them .
Not that I expect them to operate a PWC anytime soon.
 
I hold a boating licence but I would actually like to read through some material as a refresher.
And also maybe have my kids look through it as it wouldn't be a bad intro to boating for them .
Not that I expect them to operate a PWC anytime soon.
Not perfect but not a bad start.


Official publication that you can print.


Free online course you can download as pdfs

 
Be wary of old boats that seem cheap to buy. Unless you can work on them yourself repairs will require it to be pulled to a shop where you'll be paying $130 - $150 an hour. Parts are expensive. Old fiberglass can be rotten.
 
The cheapest part of owning a boat is the purchase price . I deal with two or three people every year that bought a 5k boat and are dealing with the drama that it’s 5-6k to keep it in a marina.

For anybody that’s getting serious about a boat , spend the $300 and take a Canadian Power Squadron boating course . It’s 10-12 weeknights , usually over the winter . You’ll get your boat operating card , but you actually learn how stuff works , basic navigation, how to approach a dock in the wind and how an anchor works . You learn none of this in an online course / test . Then take the VHF radio course so you know how that works .
Do I think the Power Squadron guys are a nerd festival ? Yes , but they are doing a good job , you learn what channel markers mean and my Saturday does not get interrupted with your mayday calls because you lost engine power , don’t have an adequate anchor and are drifting into a beach or rock pile . Or I’m looking for the parking brake on my 7ton boat because you don’t know what restricted draft means . And my new favourite ‘air draft’ .
I don’t need any of that crap says weekend ski boat Fred , as he’s standing outside the marina asking how much the leg on the outboard is going to cost since his girlfriend bounced it off the same shoal again. That shoal has been there for 2 million years , it’s not a new rock in your lake .


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The cheapest part of owning a boat is the purchase price . I deal with two or three people every year that bought a 5k boat and are dealing with the drama that it’s 5-6k to keep it in a marina.

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This is my understanding also. Easy to buy the boat. Hard / Expensive to maintain / keep the boat operational!

My price range would be around the 5-8k range, with the preference given to a bow rider or the Seadoo Sportster (would I finally have a Sportster!) type of boat. Those I understand, and those I can manage financially.
Now...inboard or outboard? What to look for when checking out boats? Where to store it (friends have a spot at a marina in Innisfil that's $1500/season approx), how to transport it, and how to SAFELY and PROPERLY operate it are all other considerations.

Thankfully I can't currently justify this expense...so will hope my friends with boats invite me, or wife finally agrees to rent one and we can go out as a family.


 
This is my understanding also. Easy to buy the boat. Hard / Expensive to maintain / keep the boat operational!

My price range would be around the 5-8k range, with the preference given to a bow rider or the Seadoo Sportster (would I finally have a Sportster!) type of boat. Those I understand, and those I can manage financially.
Now...inboard or outboard? What to look for when checking out boats? Where to store it (friends have a spot at a marina in Innisfil that's $1500/season approx), how to transport it, and how to SAFELY and PROPERLY operate it are all other considerations.

Thankfully I can't currently justify this expense...so will hope my friends with boats invite me, or wife finally agrees to rent one and we can go out as a family.


I'm with crankcall on engines and am firmly in the outboard camp. Exception would be if you want a jet as jet outboards are rare but for many reasons I dislike jet boats (have to shut off to remain in position, sucking in a rope is easy to do and a pita to fix, they slide instead of carve, etc etc). Most of the stock of affordable bowriders will be i/o's. I think they are hateful things and see no benefit to them existing. You won't get an inboard you can afford to own in your price range.
 
I've been boating for over 45 years. Have personally owned my own boats since 1996. There is an old saying that the happiest 2 days of owning a boat are the day you buy it and the day you sell it. Things to be aware off - fiberglass boats look great, but can show there age (fading of colour's, scratches and they don't like hitting rocks). Aluminum hulls can take a pounding and no one really cares if you lightly bump into rocks. I have owned inboards and I would recommend getting a boat with an outboard. First boat was a 17ft bow rider with a 4.3 litre I/O. Lots of fun. Kids got older and we moved up to a 21 ft bow rider with a 5.7 litre. The 4 feet extra length is nice, but the real benefit is in the extra beam width. Be careful of 2 footitis....it's a common problem. My SUV (Pilot, V6) pulled the 17 ft no problem. On the 21 ft, it was working pretty hard. Upgraded to an F150 this year and pulling it is much easier. A trailer is 100% recommended. The longer the trailer, the easier it is to back up. As for expenses, my trailer is a dually with brakes (activated by the hitch and ball). Had to replace tires - $500. Brakes also need to be maintained. Gas mileage on vehicle pulling trailer is cut in half when towing the boat. Insurance on the boat - it is usually easiest to add as a rider on your house policy. You need liability in case you hit anyone or anything. You can get private boaters insurance through marine companies, but I have never gone that route. Some insurance companies have issues with insuring a boat that is more than 15 years old. Verify before you purchase. Life jackets, water toys, etc. all other expenses that need to be considered. Winter storage and winter prep - 17 ft boat was ~$1000 per winter. 21 ft boat is closer to $1500. Launching at a marina for the day ~ $20-25 to launch and park truck and trailer. Gas for boat at marina is usually 70 to 80 cents higher than at the regular gas station, if not more. Remember - BOAT is an acronym for Break Out Another Thousand. And there are always some new expenses. Just this year my trim motor decided to die. Whole thing is the size of a tall boy - part cost $2200, install was 4 - 5 hours @ $130 per hour + taxes. $3300 when all was done. But my wife and kids love spending the day on the water and wouldn't give it up. It is a lot of fun, but do go into this with your eyes wide open. In my opinion, for someone that wants to get into boating, I would recommend a 17 or 18 ft aluminum boat with an outboard - think a Legend of something like that. It's an open boat, usually with a windshield, you can fish, water ski, tow tubes, etc. That kind of boat can take a beating and it is also fairly easy to resell if you find that boating isn't for you. I know I've said a lot here - just sharing experiences.

mimico_polak

- PM me if you would like to talk more in depth about boating :)
 
I’m replacing the 7L inboard in my yacht clubs race committee boat ( not the actual work , contracting if) the rebuild is now at 10k and I don’t have the starter / alternator / hoses / belts invoice yet . I suspect another 3-4K . 16k when done in a boat we paid 18k for 6 yrs ago.
Have I mentioned the part about hating inboards ??


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In contrast , I bought a 12ft zodiac 3 wks ago , 40hp Yamaha , 8ths old for 8k . New value is about 26k . Depreciation is huge on boats .


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In contrast , I bought a 12ft zodiac 3 wks ago , 40hp Yamaha , 8ths old for 8k . New value is about 26k . Depreciation is huge on boats .


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Nice. Actual "Zodiac" brand? Need a trailer?
 
Ok so….inboard bad. Fiberglass hull worse than aluminum.

Open up wallet…

Got it.

Here's an affordable one MP. $1500 for a speedster. No engine, no jet pump so no expensive engine repairs. Everybody gets a paddle so you all get exercise while on the water.

Link no worky…
 
Ok so….inboard bad. Fiberglass hull worse than aluminum.

Open up wallet…

Got it.


Link no worky…
I/o isn't bad, it's just worse imo. There are tens of thousands of fiberglass boats with i/o's at cottages in Ontario.

Aluminum boats are uglier than their fiberglass cousins but I personally prefer aluminum.

Cheap boat probably sold already. My description tells you most of the important bits.
 
I wouldn’t completely ignore the idea of a fiberglass boat , but I would have somebody that really knows where to look for rot inspect it before pulling the trigger . Some of the cored hulls are time bombs .


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I wouldn’t completely ignore the idea of a fiberglass boat , but I would have somebody that really knows where to look for rot inspect it before pulling the trigger . Some of the cored hulls are time bombs .


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FIL's boat had blisters below the waterline when he bought it. I pointed them out to him but was clear that I was in no way responsible for the buying decision, I was just there to point out what I saw. Blisters haven't worsened in the years he's had it so that's good.
 
I wouldn’t completely ignore the idea of a fiberglass boat , but I would have somebody that really knows where to look for rot inspect it before pulling the trigger . Some of the cored hulls are time bombs .


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I would 100% call someone that’s knowledgeable to come with me to take a look IF it came to.

Right now we’ve got some family things to deal with that take priority.
 
I wouldn’t completely ignore the idea of a fiberglass boat , but I would have somebody that really knows where to look for rot inspect it before pulling the trigger . Some of the cored hulls are time bombs .


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I had a guy named Buchanan do an insurance survey on mine. He was very good if he's still around.

Example 1) A guy at the marina paid $40K for a boat but didn't get a survey until insurance made a request. The cored hull was shot and cost another $40K to remedy.

He took it out and something mechanical went wrong and he had that fixed. He then sold the boat for $40K before anything else went wrong.

Example 2) We pulled into the marina and saw a couple of guys working on the bottom of a 23 foot mini cruiser with a aft cabin. They were using a small kit from Canadian Tire. The damage was a cracked hull.

The only way to do that job right is with specialty resins, long tapered edges, double patched from the inside. That would require removing the deck and inner liner.

The quick patch could be covered with a coat of anti fouling and an in-water survey would be hard pressed to find the flaw.

Example 3) While looking for a boat I came across outfit that repaired and resold used ones. The owner let me in on his secret stringer repair.

Dig out the rotted stringer and pack in fiberglass reinforced poly resin.

I checked with the manufacturer and they didn't recommend the process. The heat build up would weaken and possible distort the hull.

There are some very ethical marinas but the waters also harbour sharks.
 
I'm with crankcall on engines and am firmly in the outboard camp. Exception would be if you want a jet as jet outboards are rare but for many reasons I dislike jet boats (have to shut off to remain in position, sucking in a rope is easy to do and a pita to fix, they slide instead of carve, etc etc). Most of the stock of affordable bowriders will be i/o's. I think they are hateful things and see no benefit to them existing. You won't get an inboard you can afford to own in your price range.
I’m an inboard or I/o fan. Maybe I’m old skool on this, but I’ve had a lot of boats I’ve the last few decades and they have always been easier to maintain and had lower TCO.

That said, I do my own work and maintain my marine toys to a high standard.

I’ve always had a good size boat, sold my last one recently - all I have now is the 10’ Zodiac tender with an 8hp outboard. I sold because operating costs (fuel mostly) have become so extreme that I can no longer justify owning a boat.

I’m not done… trying to convince wife we can do the loop for a year… I’m hoping it will happen but it’s still a dream.

If I had my way, I’d be on a 50+ ocean cruiser that would have me in Toronto for the summer and the tropics for the winter.
 
I’m more a canal cruiser. Seasonal mooring and gas are the two big costs. Taking a month to do the Ontario canals will eat a couple of thousand in fuel but accommodation is cheap.

I haven’t done the locks for years and concerned that they will be too crowded or the gray line unavailable for mooring.
 
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