The first gen Mountain Cycles Pro Stop back in 92 were cable operated hydraulic. Same with the AMP/Rock Shox brakes.
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Anyone here a cyclist?
- Thread starter MaksTO
- Start date
The first gen Mountain Cycles Pro Stop back in 92 were cable operated hydraulic. Same with the AMP/Rock Shox brakes.
The hybrid brakes I have on the gravel bike are very good but not like the full hydraulic ones on my MTB. Both of these beat the pants of my old rim brakes I had.
I think I’m going to go with the 5 cm rise top shelf handlebar as I have a bunch of spacers I can switch if that’s too much change. I’ve been reading and there’s a bunch of general complaints that not everyone is a racer than needs their ass a foot above the bars on bikes (exaggeration of course but you get my drift). I’m trying to get a decent comfort position on the hoods as that’s where I spend more of my time and a useful position on the drops as I don’t use those as much due to them being a bit too aggressive right now.
I think I’m going to go with the 5 cm rise top shelf handlebar as I have a bunch of spacers I can switch if that’s too much change. I’ve been reading and there’s a bunch of general complaints that not everyone is a racer than needs their ass a foot above the bars on bikes (exaggeration of course but you get my drift). I’m trying to get a decent comfort position on the hoods as that’s where I spend more of my time and a useful position on the drops as I don’t use those as much due to them being a bit too aggressive right now.
Dirty Frank
Well-known member
From your previous posts I'm guessing that you are hoping to make the bike more comfortable for longer saddle sessions.
My advise would be to pack the bike up and visit a good LBS and get some bike fit advise. Might be as simple as a stem change.
Also bigger rubber and maybe a slight drop in pressure up front if the bike can accommodate it would help dampen out some of the bumps making life easier on the upper body.
FWIW those Park tools youtube are pretty good for DIY bike repair if you look through them.
My advise would be to pack the bike up and visit a good LBS and get some bike fit advise. Might be as simple as a stem change.
Also bigger rubber and maybe a slight drop in pressure up front if the bike can accommodate it would help dampen out some of the bumps making life easier on the upper body.
FWIW those Park tools youtube are pretty good for DIY bike repair if you look through them.
Dirty Frank
Well-known member
The pros closet bike resale business recently ceased operations here is the local auction listing if you find stuff like that interesting.
Dirty Frank
Well-known member
Lube/wipe the chain, wipe the frame off/inspection, hang on wall. Brakes/derailleurs I keep close to perfect at all times as I can't stand riding an obstinate bike so I don't need to touch them in the fall.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
If you rode them - wash and lube, I also deflate tires to about 7PSI.
If you didn't - winterize on Facebook Marketplace.
Why deflate tires? I leave them full and it makes it easy to know which ones have slow leaks and require further investigation.
Store with chain on small cog rear and small chainring on front (if applicable). Takes the strain off the springs on the derailleur cages.
Dirty Frank
Well-known member
Pull the seat post and apply a touch of all purpose grease to prevent seizing.
If carbon see the bike shop for the appropriate lube .
If carbon see the bike shop for the appropriate lube .
[QUOTE="Just picked up a Garneau fat tire bike used. Looking forward to getting it out during the winter months![/QUOTE]
Finally got a chance to get the fatty bad boy out on some trails today. Amazing amount of fun. That’s big juicy tires sure soak up the rocks and roots.
I’m obsessed!
Finally got a chance to get the fatty bad boy out on some trails today. Amazing amount of fun. That’s big juicy tires sure soak up the rocks and roots.
I’m obsessed!
Attachments
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Finally got a chance to get the fatty bad boy out on some trails today. Amazing amount of fun. That’s big juicy tires sure soak up the rocks and roots.
I’m obsessed!
[/QUOTE]
Welcome to the rabbit hole on these. I did the Costco Northrock back in Covid days and haven’t stopped tinkering. Just swapped out the JJ tires for cheapie studded tires. Love riding in deep snow and soft beach sand. Even with studs, ICE can be a little sketchy but, I haven’t fully committed with good brand name studded tires.
It’s a work out on two wheels!
Welcome to the rabbit hole on these. I did the Costco Northrock back in Covid days and haven’t stopped tinkering. Just swapped out the JJ tires for cheapie studded tires. Love riding in deep snow and soft beach sand. Even with studs, ICE can be a little sketchy but, I haven’t fully committed with good brand name studded tires.
It’s a work out on two wheels![/QUOTE]
I’m looking forward to tinkering.
I also plan to ride in the snow.
The Cake eater tires are stud-ready and I’ve been thinking about adding them for the colder months.
Assuming if I commit to those, it’s a transport to the trails situation as I can’t imagine riding on asphalt with those installed, unless of course it’s snow covered.
Got an early Black Friday deal on the handlebar I wanted for my gravel bike which has a 50mm riser and is 60mm wider. So now I need to plan for the cable exchange to fit the higher wider bars.
Are these the kits I need to do this for those hybrid cable actuated hydraulic brakes and for a front and rear derailleur?
Semi exposed cable routing (not internal).
Are these the kits I need to do this for those hybrid cable actuated hydraulic brakes and for a front and rear derailleur?
Semi exposed cable routing (not internal).
There is no need to spend that much. The bike is more or less new so are the current cables and housings.
The only housings you need are the now longer lengths to reach the new handle bars back to the frame, all others are fine. The current rear brake cable is more than long enough to be used/repurposed on the front. I assume 1X drivetrain??? If not the old rear cable can be used on the front.
One new brake cable for the rear. One new gear cable. Likely a few feet of housing (need both brake and gear, they are different). Some crimps and ferrules (most LBSs will throw in a few with the cable housing). Just support a LBS and buy just that from them, likely $20, maybe $30 all in.
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Thanks!
2x drivetrain! I did buy the kits but may repurpose the existing cables as suggested. That will leave me some spares for the future. I got a pair of housing cutters on sale too so I’m all set, I already have a cable cutter/crimper.
Just hope my fat fingers rewrap the new bars OK as I guess there’s a knack/skill to it.
The new bars look great. A touch wider and a tad taller but nothing too excessive. Should make quite a difference.
Bar wrapping is a bit of an art but also not rocket surgery. Watch some youtube videos and consider wrap direction where your hands sit most often. Make sure to have everything you need within hands reach before you start. Personally I start at the ends and wrap towards the middle, I use electrical tape at the termination point.
I butchered a squash racquet grip and hockey stick once so I have form.
Dirty Frank
Well-known member
I'm a absolute hack at bar tape but my partner on the other hand watched a YT tutorial and aced it first try not trying to be sexist but there are tasks that women seem to have a knack for.
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