What a non-story. Couldn't he have just used the 80A charger at a 40A rate? The 80A is the top / max charge rate.
My charger is rated for 30A but I put in a 20A (or 25A) breaker to prevent issues...works fine.
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Any GTAM'ers own an electric vehicle?
- Thread starter PrivatePilot
- Start date
My charger is rated for 30A but I put in a 20A (or 25A) breaker to prevent issues...works fine.
It appears that if you buy the extended-range battery for the Lightning, they supply the 80A charger and there's no choice in the matter. Or, it's adjustable (website says "up to 80 amps") but the means by which it uses lower power levels isn't sufficiently idiot-proof to allow it to be connected to anything less than a 100 amp circuit. (mine has dip switches inside its enclosure for setting the max current, which require tools to access and cannot be overruled by software)
The OEM chargers aren't always adjustable; they are built to a price, and providing a means of changing the charge level costs a non-zero amount. Ford probably supplied the huge AC charger with the extended-range battery because they didn't want to hear people complaining about how long it took to charge up. That this means a lot of people would need a service upgrade is a "somebody else's problem". Or they figure those people would just get the standard-range model, which comes with a lower-powered charger (which will work fine on the bigger battery, just take longer)
The OEM chargers aren't always adjustable; they are built to a price, and providing a means of changing the charge level costs a non-zero amount. Ford probably supplied the huge AC charger with the extended-range battery because they didn't want to hear people complaining about how long it took to charge up. That this means a lot of people would need a service upgrade is a "somebody else's problem". Or they figure those people would just get the standard-range model, which comes with a lower-powered charger (which will work fine on the bigger battery, just take longer)
Or, just install a regular old L2 charger at 32a and the customer can wait a few extra hours on the (almost certainly) insanely rare occasion that they deplete the entire 100kw battery. At 7.2kw (standard L2) will still charge that from flat empty to full in about 15 hours, so even starting at 7pm when electricity goes off peak, the car is full again by 10am. If they need to leave at 8am for work or something, it's still mostly full.
Part of the issue with a lot of things car, and especially EV, is that the average consumer is just plain ignorant (didn't bother making even the slightest effort to read and educate themselves about charging options), misinformed (dealership is full of idiots who don't even understand what they're selling and didn't explain charging options), or stupid (options were presented but they were too obtuse to eveven understand what was being explained)...or a combination of all 3.
My Polestar has an amps setting on the main screen ... can't recall what the min & max is without checking but it's something I never worried about in the Volt as it couldn't go past L2 anyways.
I didn't check what the P2 was set at and promptly tripped the breaker when I had it plugged in and the dryer was going ... lowered it to 16 amps and no problem now but it's something I'm still learning.
What amps setting do I use when I pull up to the myriad L3 CCS chargers out there?? Is there something on the charger display that tells me max amps??
An electrician can also be similarly incompetent. My parents house has outlets outside, in the living room and in the laundry room on the same circuit. That was annoying as the outlet my mom would prefer to plug the iron into and the washing machine were on the same circuit.
So I gather that your previous experience has been with the Volt which only had J1772 Level 2 (240V) charging and didn't have fast-charging capability, so you're new to the fast-charging experience!
Valuable resource: www.plugshare.com
Enter your vehicle data in there and then you can set up filters to show you only charging stations that are compatible with your vehicle, and you can filter by other criteria such as minimum power level, etc. There's a phone-app version of it so that you can use it out on the road.
Eventually someone is going to commonise the payment methods for all the different charging networks but for now, that isn't how it is, there are a few different charging networks that each have their own way of starting a charge and their own ways of paying for them. Arrgh. But ... onwards.
www.ivycharge.com - This is the charging stations at the OnRoute centers. Set up an account and get them to send you a RFID tag. This makes starting a charge at an OnRoute dead simple. Pull in, plug in, wave your RFID tag at the reader, go have a coffee.
www.flo.com - there are lots of Flo chargers in this area.
EVSE | Electric Vehicle (EV) Charging Stations - ChargePoint - Chargepoint is pretty common, too.
Canada's Electric Highway – EV Fast Charge car charging stations - TransCanada Highway and a few other places. (There's a big one at Dorchester, 401 exit 199.) Scroll down, download the app to your phone and set it up.
Shell Recharge is another common one Electric Vehicle Charging{CampaignName}&utm_content={AdGroupName}&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wa7DS6LEawrqKvfzG5YlMsRSfPNU-xDIPzikiavc42rqCcOdB5SUxIaArJ0EALw_wcB Same deal, download the app to your phone and set it up.
This will do nothing good for tire wear but tank turns are fun and would be helpful for oversized ev's.
jalopnik.com
Mercedes Says Not To Use The G-Class EV's Tank Turn On Public Roads. What Are You Gonna Do, Arrest Me?
The so-called "G Turn" is designed for off-roading, but it looks extremely cool on the road
jalopnik.com
Exactly ... I've always plugged at home except for maybe 2 or 3 free sessions at a mall somewhere. I've got the following apps set up: Chargepoint, flo, Petro Can EV, PlugShare, & Electrify Canada but will look at the others thank you.
Now this is taking re-charging to the next level....
Ouch. the aero efficiency hit from that thing would exceed the power it made. The builder says the effect on drag is minimal but they also say they haven't measured it. Cool solution for camping I guess but as with all solar on car solutions, it is far more efficient to have the panels on the roof of a structure over the parking spot. That gives you better and consistent angle to the sun. Normally that would also give you far more room for panels but this car obviously managed to wedge quite a few panels on the roof.
If I ever go back to a PHEV or full EV I wouldn't mind setting up a small solar panel array on the side of the house.
Would protect the walkway b/w the house / fence, and also get me some nice solar energy to top up the car. Don't think I'd need much...but it would be a cool project.
Just need a parts list and some planning.
As soon as you grid-tie it, small solar is not financially viable (inspections, permits, you still need an expensive inverter, etc). If you are doing solar I would aim for 5KW or more. 10KW maximizes value for money on a residential system if your usage supports that (you cannot get a cheque from hydro no matter how much you produce, best you can do it reduce your bill to zero).
If your few panels charge a battery bank and you connect an inverter and EVSE to that battery bank, install cost can plummet (depending on what you pay for batteries). Efficiency also takes a hit though (and if battery bank is not sufficient to fill car, you need to move the plug part way through the charge).
Tesla Cybertruck gets delivered with ridiculous body defects
Tesla has delivered one of the very first Cybertrucks to a customer who is not a Tesla employee and it...
flip.it
There's a thriving hobbyist demand for end of life EV packs for these sorts of systems. Even when they're done being viable for an EV they still work awesome for storage systems.
The Volt packs are particularly well loved in the hobbyist community.
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