Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Apparently it’s been abandoned / empty for quite some time? Or is that seasonal?
It's in transition. Original owners sold it around 2022. I think it was open last year with new owners. Not sure if it bailed again before this mess. To be honest, I don't drive past it often in winter. I thought it was always seasonal.
 
When I was selling snow melting systems, I got a call from an engineer that wanted to snowmelt a mall roof so they could put in an amusement area. The project required removal of some supports and the snow load rating would be pooched.

I told him we could do it but pointed out that if a snowstorm caused a power outage, they would need a crap ton of emergency generation. It never happened.

I did design a system for a high-powered area at a parking garage where plowed snow could be melted as trucking away wasn't an option. They built it but it didn't work well. Piled snow becomes ice and melting it takes forever.
 

Appears there was a fire sometime in the last few years and they reopened in an adjacent property. So was this the new store or the old fire damaged one? If the fire damaged one maybe the roof was compromised from the fire? If the new location, well that is just really bad luck.
 

Appears there was a fire sometime in the last few years and they reopened in an adjacent property. So was this the new store or the old fire damaged one? If the fire damaged one maybe the roof was compromised from the fire? If the new location, well that is just really bad luck.
I think the collapse was the historic store that was not in use.
 
Electrical question.

Looking at replacing a 32 year old Jenn air range. Preference is induction. Location is wired for 40 amp but I'm seeing some higher end ranges are specked for 50 amps. Changing out cable isn't an option. Would doing this result in regular breaker trips or would trips only happen if oven was on with all 4 burners cranked up? This would likely never happen.

Side note. Reading reviews of any appliance would result in never purchasing any of them. :rolleyes:
 
I’m not an electrician but if specs are [emoji6][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]] and your running it on [emoji[emoji6][emoji6]] , the wire could be undersized? You’re leaning into a potential fire hazard of your own making .
And yes. If reviews are to be believed you would only cook on open fire in the yard .


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I’m not an electrician but if specs are [emoji6][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]] and your running it on [emoji[emoji6][emoji6]] , the wire could be undersized? You’re leaning into a potential fire hazard of your own making .
And yes. If reviews are to be believed you would only cook on open fire in the yard .


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Wires would still be protected with the original 40 amp breaker. I wouldn't change it to 50 amp.
 
Electrical question.

Looking at replacing a 32 year old Jenn air range. Preference is induction. Location is wired for 40 amp but I'm seeing some higher end ranges are specked for 50 amps. Changing out cable isn't an option. Would doing this result in regular breaker trips or would trips only happen if oven was on with all 4 burners cranked up? This would likely never happen.

Side note. Reading reviews of any appliance would result in never purchasing any of them. :rolleyes:
The chance you blow a breaker on a stove is minimal. As you said, the max amperage assumes every burner and oven is on at the same time. Even if you are using all the burners, most of them will be turned way down.

Now, what is the wiring situation? Does stove come with a different plug? If you start rewiring to plug high draw appliances into low-draw receptacles, I don't think warranty or your home insurance will like you. If the plug is the same, I would just go for it. When I installed it, I would check draw under full load for peace of mind (or to give me an idea of any limitations that I may have).
 
Electrical question.

Looking at replacing a 32 year old Jenn air range. Preference is induction. Location is wired for 40 amp but I'm seeing some higher end ranges are specked for 50 amps. Changing out cable isn't an option. Would doing this result in regular breaker trips or would trips only happen if oven was on with all 4 burners cranked up? This would likely never happen.

Side note. Reading reviews of any appliance would result in never purchasing any of them. :rolleyes:
Check the gauge of wire it may already be sufficient for 50 amps (#6) but like others said it is unlikely you would trip the 40 amp breaker unless you turn everything on... Don't swap out to a 50 amp breaker unless the wiring can handle it.

Also make sure the current wiring is grounded. You are likely fine age wise but in the olden days they did not run a separate ground to the stove. Make sure the pug is four prong and not three. What you want to see is a NEMA 14-50....

1741274876984.png
 
The chance you blow a breaker on a stove is minimal. As you said, the max amperage assumes every burner and oven is on at the same time. Even if you are using all the burners, most of them will be turned way down.

Now, what is the wiring situation? Does stove come with a different plug? If you start rewiring to plug high draw appliances into low-draw receptacles, I don't think warranty or your home insurance will like you. If the plug is the same, I would just go for it. When I installed it, I would check draw under full load for peace of mind (or to give me an idea of any limitations that I may have).
Plug will match. Wiring is 4 wire awg 8. House is same age as Jenn Air. 32 years.
 
Check the gauge of wire it may already be sufficient for 50 amps (#6) but like others said it is unlikely you would trip the 40 amp breaker unless you turn everything on... Don't swap out to a 50 amp breaker unless the wiring can handle it.

Also make sure the current wiring is grounded. You are likely fine age wise but in the olden days they did not run a separate ground to the stove. Make sure the pug is four prong and not three. What you want to see is a NEMA 14-50....

View attachment 72732
Understood. Thanks
 
I had a look. Looks like #6 to me ?

c082c69ceeb497d7910724120d347772.jpg

c8194a2dc468d32f2d708e9f8ebc60a1.jpg



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I had a look. Looks like #6 to me ?

c082c69ceeb497d7910724120d347772.jpg

c8194a2dc468d32f2d708e9f8ebc60a1.jpg



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It's hard to tell from pictures. My eyeball says 8 but I could be wrong. Look for marking or measure OD and check vs standard dimensions. In first pic it looks like one strand of the red may be cut off at the edge of the insulation

Breaker above it looks like 30A with 12ga? It's possible for some uses (like an air compressor) but not typical.
 
It's hard to tell from pictures. My eyeball says 8 but I could be wrong. Look for marking or measure OD and check vs standard dimensions. In first pic it looks like one strand of the red may be cut off at the edge of the insulation

Breaker above it looks like 30A with 12ga? It's possible for some uses (like an air compressor) but not typical.
I'm satisfied its #8
 
another 2025 project idea
1741317668498.png
 
another 2025 project idea
View attachment 72741
Try pulling out the concrete embedding the post.

I drilled a 1/2" hole diagonally through the mess after speed boring enough rotten wood out to see where it went through.

A piece of rebar through the concrete gave an internal grab point.

Build a derrick over the blob and hoist with whatever system you want. Levers, jacks or a come along.

A good long soaking helps.
 
PSA.... check that the power is off even if you turned the power off.

Bathroom reno in progress and I turned the power off to the room some time ago. I was finishing up the wiring yesterday in prep for drywall and I got lifted pretty good. Turns out my wife tripped another breaker and turned them all back on! She admits nothing and life insurance is paid up :)

Normally I put a wire through or tape over the off breaker to mark it and a connect the hot to the neutral just to be sure no ones turns it on. But it is my house so why would I?
 
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