I picked up a few bags of Calcium Chloride the other day. It's easier on concrete as well. Landscape supply was $20 a bag. Rona was out of stock and theirs had been $30.
Learned that with my first pool while adding calcium to a bucket of the pool water (chlorinated). It was a race to get it stirred up with my hand and dumped in before it got too hot.
An electric cable can heat the perimeter. That is used more for situations where slab deterioration is a problem due to temperature fluctuations.
2 inch foam glued on with construction adhesive would make a huge difference. You can glue drywall to the foam after if you wanted.
Technically you could do what we did in a buddies basement but I wouldn't. Basically we made our own dricore. Rolled out foundation drainage wrap (bumpy brown plastic with taped seams), put plywood on top and pinned it down. Not as insulated as dry core but only 1.5" thick. Slab can breathe and any water can get out between the bumps.
There’s less today as it’s milder out but Stihl plenty. The hardware on the man-door often has frost on it as well although I don’t feel any excessive air flow near the housings. Door itself has seals in good shape all around. Weirdly no frost on the side of the garage housing the bay doors just mostly the entire back wall.
Are you more concerned that it is making the overall space colder or that it is making your feet cold?
You can do stuff from the inside but you end up with a curb. Is it possible to put some sort of foam insulation on the outside?
I think roof design snow load for southern ontario is on the order of 20 psf (for Windsor and Toronto, 40 psf for London, 50 psf for Barrie and Ottawa, 65 psf for Timmins). Not easy to hit with falling snow but very easy to exceed with rain on deep snow.
Mini-split in the garage would be cheaper than insulating the slab and make it quite nice to work in. It doesn't need to be fully conditioned space normally just moderated with the mini-split.
If I'm reading it right my 50 year old code book has graphs showing the GTA as 40 PSF. The minimum is 21 PSF.I think roof design snow load for southern ontario is on the order of 20 psf (for Windsor and Toronto, 40 psf for London, 50 psf for Barrie and Ottawa, 65 psf for Timmins). Not easy to hit with falling snow but very easy to exceed with rain on deep snow.
EDIT:
Pulled snow down from >3' of perimeter of house and shed on Saturday. Roof appears to be about 3' deep of dense packed snow. Snow is behind soffit now so any melting snow should make it to the eavestrough instead of trying to form an ice dam. I only had a couple inches of ice in a couple valleys. The worst place is a isolated section of attic with a ridge vent. The ridge vent is obviously completely blocked. I put Maxx vens on the main roof which as a good idea as they are clear and venting well. I may go around again later today to get more weight off given the above. I'm not concerned about the snow but more its ability to hold water.
Clearing 5cm will do far more damage than it prevents. The damage caused by clearing it is not an insurance issue though. Intact deserves a throat-punch from the regulator for that statement. It is misleading and damaging.
More concerned about the overall space being cold. Basically the unheated garage went down to 2C during the coldest of days recently...and that's with adding weather stripping to the side door where there's no more light coming through the gaps.
Might be cheaper to buy thicker socks.
Smallish garage volume so even electric heat to moderate temperature wouldn't be crazy expensive. I still think mini-splits in the garage are a great idea. Low operating cost, nice to work in and nicer on the crap (and bikes) you store in the garage.
