I have the same problem,locked up the rear a few times lol.
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Wrecked my FZ1 in the Catskills, what to do now...
- Thread starter Sarchi
- Start date
Its a car driving reaction....the foot thing.
Go racing...you will forget the bike even has a back brake,LOL.
Two rounds ago, we pitted mid-race to swap onto rain tires......and hurried back out onto the track....we did two more rider swaps and fuel ups, and after the race, the rear pads were still almost a half inch from the rotor. 3 hrs of racing, and not one of the 3 riders of even bothered to pump the rear brakes back up after the pitstop,LOL
Glad you walked away though. Bikes are just hunks of metal and rubber. No biggie.
Go racing...you will forget the bike even has a back brake,LOL.
Two rounds ago, we pitted mid-race to swap onto rain tires......and hurried back out onto the track....we did two more rider swaps and fuel ups, and after the race, the rear pads were still almost a half inch from the rotor. 3 hrs of racing, and not one of the 3 riders of even bothered to pump the rear brakes back up after the pitstop,LOL
Glad you walked away though. Bikes are just hunks of metal and rubber. No biggie.
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It's my first time down, but in the past my close calls also involved locking up the rear. Last time was at least 4-5 yrs ago. On the last two bikes before the FZ, I had ABS...so maybe I lost some of my vigilance. Hitting the rear brake on a motorcycle is a really sh**ty idea.
Red_Liner740
Well-known member
steel or alu frame?
To be honest, if its a steel frame and it was me, id keep riding it.
The reason the forks and handlebars are not aligned is that the handlebar hit the ground and twisted the upper and lower triple trees out of alignment. Youtube how to realign the front end. That is if the triple trees are not bent. This is also the reason that steering stop is gone and dent in the frame.
For all intents and purposes, that was a light getoff....just unfortunate on the dent.
This happens alot with dirt bike guys, the fork misalignment...
To be honest, if its a steel frame and it was me, id keep riding it.
The reason the forks and handlebars are not aligned is that the handlebar hit the ground and twisted the upper and lower triple trees out of alignment. Youtube how to realign the front end. That is if the triple trees are not bent. This is also the reason that steering stop is gone and dent in the frame.
For all intents and purposes, that was a light getoff....just unfortunate on the dent.
This happens alot with dirt bike guys, the fork misalignment...
Lol, I thought you were joking. In a panic situation aren't we taught to use all brakes?
+1
I don't see the big deal. Have a mechanic fix it & ride it back home
It's a steel frame, and a pretty beefy frame so it should be okay.
Or you can use this as a chance to start a winter project.
![URL]](http://[URL]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d171/mainesailah/2011-05-19150524.jpg[/URL])
Or you can use this as a chance to start a winter project.
It's a steel frame, and a pretty beefy frame so it should be okay.
Or you can use this as a chance to start a winter project.
That thing look like its from Mad Max, lol
To be honest I was kind of wondering what the big deal is. Usually a tree works best to use for leverage.
Thanks, yeah it's a steel frame, and if the repairs aren't too costly I want to keep riding it. Seeing as I just bought the bike, and liked it, that's my first choice. Also since I don't bother with collision coverage, in a situation like this it's basically up to me, not Intact...
Only thing I was wondering is if it'll pass a safety cert with that dent. In case I want to sell the bike down the road. Not a dealbreaker if it can't pass but would be good to know so I don't put too much coin into the bike.
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Red_Liner740
Well-known member
Thats a hard one to answer.....depends on how hard someone is looking? Depending if they actually think it matters enough not to certify.
you can always sell As is....and i'm not just saying that, again, i would 100% buy that bike if i was shopping for it.
You may not get as much, but def more than parting out to the vultures that are already circling....jeez.
you can always sell As is....and i'm not just saying that, again, i would 100% buy that bike if i was shopping for it.
You may not get as much, but def more than parting out to the vultures that are already circling....jeez.
Griffin
Well-known member
Not if your teacher knows anything about motorcycles and emergency braking, no.
In an emergency it is virtually impossible for any but the best riders to modulate the rear brake with their foot. On a sport bike it is much worse as the rear end lightens quickly and is therefore even more prone to lock.
OP - that sucks. Glad you came out reasonably okay. Some good options being suggested here.
Which is exactly why ABS should be standard on all bikes. Like cars.
N3WMAN
Well-known member
MSF course teaches the use of both brakes.
silverbullet132
Well-known member
My sore body couldn't agree more. Not to blame the bike, it was my fault. But ABS would have easily prevented it.
Common sense, if your front brake delivers 75% braking & your rear brake delivers 25%. Why would you only want 75%??
I have abs in my car & hate it. I prefer to modulate my own brakes. I would say abs can only help 5%. There is only so much that you can defeat physics
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Red_Liner740
Well-known member
As you approach the limit of the braking force which is about to flip the bike over you, the closer you get to that point the less traction the tire has.
In perfect world, if you were a machine you'd start with 25% braking force in the rear and 75% front and slowly lessen the rear brake force as you apply more front to utilize maximum braking force.
In real world nobody is that good. So why play with it? Go max but progressive front and brake as hard as possible while keeping the rear tire just touching the ground.
start watching at 43sec. Watch the rear tire hop around with almost no weight on it. Just touching the rear brake would have stopped it.
[video=youtube;z1y92iUV0Lg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1y92iUV0Lg[/video]
In perfect world, if you were a machine you'd start with 25% braking force in the rear and 75% front and slowly lessen the rear brake force as you apply more front to utilize maximum braking force.
In real world nobody is that good. So why play with it? Go max but progressive front and brake as hard as possible while keeping the rear tire just touching the ground.
start watching at 43sec. Watch the rear tire hop around with almost no weight on it. Just touching the rear brake would have stopped it.
[video=youtube;z1y92iUV0Lg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1y92iUV0Lg[/video]
Clearly you don't quite understand ABS on a four wheeled vehicle.
Rear brakes contribute 0% at the limit of braking when weight transfer to the front is so great that the rear wheel is either off the ground or basically weightless
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