|
|
|
Where to find a decent "bucket type" car seat?
- Thread starter 油井緋色
- Start date
That looks like a beat up version of the caravan seats I offered.
Sent from my KFONWI using Tapatalk
the seat I'm putting into it is the one he really wants.
J_F
Guest
Driving Cockpit Play Seat Racing Chair Pro Video Game Seat For PC XBOX PS3 Wii | eBay
Xbox, Xbox 360, and Wii gaming consoles. The sliding seat of the car seat is mounted on the bottom of the seat. You can slide the seat forward or backward freely like a real car seat. Thrustmaster TX racing wheel.
www.ebay.com
Driving Cockpit Play Seat Racing Chair Pro Video Game Seat For PC XBOX PS3 Wii | eBay
Xbox, Xbox 360, and Wii gaming consoles. The sliding seat of the car seat is mounted on the bottom of the seat. You can slide the seat forward or backward freely like a real car seat. Thrustmaster TX racing wheel.www.ebay.com
Thanks for trying. These flex however. They're fine for the entry lvl pedals because you're not slamming the brakes tho.
I really don't get how 90kg of brake pedal pressure is at all realistic. What are you simulating a 1940s car with manual drum brakes on all corners down a 15% grade in the mountains with heavy fade? Maybe adding a trailer????
If the goal is to be at all realistic then shouldn't it be realistic?
If the goal is to be at all realistic then shouldn't it be realistic?
Google F1 brake pressure.
And as hinted earlier, consistency. I'm beating players with 5+ years of experience and want to keep going.
Also, pure realism is expensive/time consuming. I'd have to change the load cells on the brake pedal every time I change a car. I also need multiple steering wheels (only have 1.) They're $500+ before tax. I'm not rich lol Motion rigs that are worth it are in the $10k range. I'm gonna stick to my peasant ****.
Last edited:
I dont get why you dont just look on kijiji. All sorts of 'bucket seats' available. I gave my son one from my 09 G6, coincidentally he wanted it for gaming too.
www.kijiji.ca
$50
Kijiji - Buy, Sell & Save with Canada's #1 Local Classifieds
Visit Kijiji Classifieds to buy, sell, or trade almost anything! New and used items, cars, real estate, jobs, services, vacation rentals and more virtually anywhere.
www.kijiji.ca
$50
Some more suggestions.
Take a close look at your braking technique, what muscles you are using etc. In a real racecar pedal reach is important. You will be locked into the seat with a tight moulded seat, five point harness etc. so not moving around much. Make sure you are only using lower body when braking and you are not flexing your core incorrectly, back, shoulders etc.... putting any force from braking into the upper seat back. The force should be into seat basically at the hinge (through your hips/ass) and even with the seat in those gamer toys sets posted I would be surprised they would flex too much here unless over padded, other than that it is not like you are pulling actual G force in anyway to cause flex.
If your pedal reach is too long and you are reaching this can cause this. Poor technique in general can cause it, specially "panic" stopping. Leg strength that is not up to the task can also cause it. Real racers spend hours in the car and they can't be using the wrong muscle groups for the wrong tasks otherwise they would never finish a race.
Automotive OEM grade seats will not fix this nor will the extra padding in those seats. F1 cars have seats anatomically moulded to the driver (CF and other materials), they are not couch style padded like even OEM performance car seats and they are integrated into the cockpit (not just attached at the bottom). The PE buckets provide a generic version made from cheaper materials.... Drag racing I have seen all kinds of high grade OEM seats flex down the track when modified cars are putting out decent power (~dropping below the 11s).
Changing out the seats in those gamer sets will also likely change seating heights, reach and angles so you will need to have some fabrication skills to get it all dialed back in properly. Not rocket surgery but some metal fab may be required. I would even consider adding a rear brace to the back of the current seat before spending money.
Take a close look at your braking technique, what muscles you are using etc. In a real racecar pedal reach is important. You will be locked into the seat with a tight moulded seat, five point harness etc. so not moving around much. Make sure you are only using lower body when braking and you are not flexing your core incorrectly, back, shoulders etc.... putting any force from braking into the upper seat back. The force should be into seat basically at the hinge (through your hips/ass) and even with the seat in those gamer toys sets posted I would be surprised they would flex too much here unless over padded, other than that it is not like you are pulling actual G force in anyway to cause flex.
If your pedal reach is too long and you are reaching this can cause this. Poor technique in general can cause it, specially "panic" stopping. Leg strength that is not up to the task can also cause it. Real racers spend hours in the car and they can't be using the wrong muscle groups for the wrong tasks otherwise they would never finish a race.
Automotive OEM grade seats will not fix this nor will the extra padding in those seats. F1 cars have seats anatomically moulded to the driver (CF and other materials), they are not couch style padded like even OEM performance car seats and they are integrated into the cockpit (not just attached at the bottom). The PE buckets provide a generic version made from cheaper materials.... Drag racing I have seen all kinds of high grade OEM seats flex down the track when modified cars are putting out decent power (~dropping below the 11s).
Changing out the seats in those gamer sets will also likely change seating heights, reach and angles so you will need to have some fabrication skills to get it all dialed back in properly. Not rocket surgery but some metal fab may be required. I would even consider adding a rear brace to the back of the current seat before spending money.
Last edited:
Trials
Well-known member
OK, here is the first thing I found:
"I watched the Speed telecast of the race and at one point the announcers mentioned that they spoke to a representative from Brembo who said that the drivers would be applying 350 lbs of force to the brakes for the lead up to turn 12."
I think the Brembo rep needs to explain the concept of hydraulics to the announcer. He put the 350 lbs of force to the brakes not to the brake pedal.
@backmarkerducati
I appreciate the input. I know my technique is proper because it's the same CNS activation as barbell squatting, I'm just using one side and keeping my arms + shoulder loose (need to steer.)
www.playseatstore.com
I'm using the "seat" from above. You'll see what I meant by brake pedal ejecting and what not.
sim-lab.eu
This is what I'm getting next. It sadly, does not come w/ a seat lol
I appreciate the input. I know my technique is proper because it's the same CNS activation as barbell squatting, I'm just using one side and keeping my arms + shoulder loose (need to steer.)
Playseat® Challenge - For all your racing needs
Challenge your opponents with the Playseat® Challenge ! This seat is very compact, stable, adjustable and foldable! Ideal for people who have little space, but want a fun, realistic racing experience!
www.playseatstore.com
GT1 EVO Sim Racing Cockpit
The GT1-Evo sim racing cockpit is designed to feature the best of all worlds. The sturdy profiles are both cost-effective and provide the frame with more than enough rigidity. Also, the aluminium slot profiles are modular and highly flexible in design. The sim racing cockpit is compatible with...
sim-lab.eu
A true F1 seat will of course be custom moulded and made out of lighter composites. The drivers are also leaned back way more for packaging/aero reasons. You can look at Nascar seating positions as aero does not matter to the driver so driver position is better optimized to the driving IMO. As you obviously do not need to be aero your position should be entirely driver focused.
Here is my old PE bucket coveted to an "office chair". First pick is the raw bucket (grey spots are from a rattle can of primer that exploded in the car in the sun when parked after doing some roll-cage work). What I want to point out here is the transition from seat bottom to back and how the drivers hips/ass will be locked into the pocket, no reason that your braking force should end up anywhere but here. Second shows how thin the foam padding is, with a very little extra from the cover's quilting. Last what it looks like with the cover. Hope that helps.
As for mounting, I used a chunk of 1/4" steel plate as the mounting bracket in the car while we were setting things up. It was there for a while and street and track time and ended up all bent (from various "G forces" not braking) before I made proper brackets. This seat is the better part of 30 years old BTW.
Here is my old PE bucket coveted to an "office chair". First pick is the raw bucket (grey spots are from a rattle can of primer that exploded in the car in the sun when parked after doing some roll-cage work). What I want to point out here is the transition from seat bottom to back and how the drivers hips/ass will be locked into the pocket, no reason that your braking force should end up anywhere but here. Second shows how thin the foam padding is, with a very little extra from the cover's quilting. Last what it looks like with the cover. Hope that helps.
As for mounting, I used a chunk of 1/4" steel plate as the mounting bracket in the car while we were setting things up. It was there for a while and street and track time and ended up all bent (from various "G forces" not braking) before I made proper brackets. This seat is the better part of 30 years old BTW.
That style of seat has the added benefit of no head bolsters. They could be useful on the track but for a sim seat, you want your hips locked in and your head free. The sample seat shown on the GT-1 Evo looks cool but it would suck if you wanted to make a sim where you could look around.
Thanks a ton.
Think that's gonna save me a few hundred lol
I can't tell if you've done this before, or if you just pick up **** really fast.
Think that's gonna save me a few hundred lol
I can't tell if you've done this before, or if you just pick up **** really fast.
Also, as you have no lateral Gs the side bolstering is not very important so you really just want something with the similar transition from seat to back IMO. Side bolstering is a comfort choice in this application but in the end also adds some structural stiffness to the seat itself.
The PE buckets usually have four threaded inserts near each corner of the base and I think will be taller sitting (base to seat) than the gaming chair, so some metal fab work will be required. I know even compared to regular car seats if you mount the PE bucket up on the OEM tracks you gain a couple inches in height and have to drive with the sunroof open....
The PE buckets usually have four threaded inserts near each corner of the base and I think will be taller sitting (base to seat) than the gaming chair, so some metal fab work will be required. I know even compared to regular car seats if you mount the PE bucket up on the OEM tracks you gain a couple inches in height and have to drive with the sunroof open....
Thanks for the warning. Will take measurements from regular seats.
I also looked at the base again, sorry six bolts as there are also one on each side midway between the front and back. The base I made up for office chair conversion in the pic is also leaned back about 6° and it could use a couple more IMO. So not flat mounted but neither are most bucket seats to the tracks.
Why would you need multiple wheels for a racing SIM?
Not ******** on you, just generally curious...
Probably to closer replicate various racecars. A big old truck wheel for nascar, a batman looking thing full of buttons and displays for F1.
|
|
|
|
|