What's your solvent of choice | GTAMotorcycle.com

What's your solvent of choice

timtune

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I think I'm too old and maybe too wise to continue using gas as cleaning agent. It's always around, it's cheap, smells good and makes your skin tingle, still there must be something better.
I'm tucking into an engine rebuild so it's coming completely apart and is going to need some cleaning.
 
diesel fuel is a good solvent too
non-explosive and cheap
takes a while to get the stench out of your hands though

is the dishwasher accessible?
 
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The next major project I do will probably include a tabletop parts washer in the budget. It's cheap and effective.
 
I buy generic brake cleaner from the dealer, the suzuki one is the cheapest it works good (work in ventilated area and wear PPE)
 
I'm looking for something I can fill a tub with and use a scrub brush. Sorry no dishwasher - not likely large enough for the cases anyway (SOHC4)
 
Varsol and a proper parts washing tank. They can be found at Princess Auto cheap, at least in the past.
 
I'm looking for something I can fill a tub with and use a scrub brush. Sorry no dishwasher - not likely large enough for the cases anyway (SOHC4)


I have use plain old kerosene with good results.

Precautions need to be taken since it's flammable, but otherwise... Cheap and effective.
 
Gas comes with a whole bunch health concerns, some immediate, some years later, some to your, as yet, unborn offspring.

If you're going to play with working on bikes. do yourself a favour and buy yourself a parts washer with a pump and a filter.
Use a water based degreaser,non flammable, low smell, non toxic and cheaper than gas, and if you have a parts washer with a pump and filter it will last for years.
 
I'm looking for something I can fill a tub with and use a scrub brush. Sorry no dishwasher - not likely large enough for the cases anyway (SOHC4)
Simple Green, but you have to let things soak for a while. Its environmentally friendly and doesn't smell bad.
It does leave a bit of a film, so rinse thoroughly before reassembly.
 
Stolichnaya, it's a Russian product. It cuts grease, won't harm plastics or rubber, and it shines things up nicely. Unlike SimpleGreen, if you accidentally spill a 12oz bottle in your mouth, it won't kill you and no special medical attention is required.
 
It depends on what you are trying to clean.

Pine Sol undiluted works for small assemblies - carburetor bodies, brake calipers, and so forth.

Varsol is good for greasy parts provided that you have somewhere to store both the solvent and the cleaning tank itself. I don't have one.

An ultrasonic cleaner is a great thing to have ... and I don't have one. (Would be nice.) Plain water, or water and dish soap, should be good enough for most jobs.

For engines ... in the absence of large pieces of equipment to do this professionally ... here is what I have done.

Alternate cleaning and disassembly. Clean the bike before you take anything apart, just a normal bike wash. Then when you have bodywork and trim parts off so that you can get to the engine directly, spray really nasty spots (like behind the countershaft sprocket and the oil pan and areas around that) with WD40, let that soak, spray the whole area with degreaser, let it soak, and hose it off with a strong spray from a garden hose. Then take the engine out of the bike ... cleaning as you go makes this a less messy job. Plug intake and exhaust openings (may not be necessary if you plan to have it completely apart) and repeat that process with the engine out of the bike.

With the engine disassembled to individual parts - I do crankcases in a plastic tote filled with hot water and Simple Green. Spray greasy spots with WD40, use an old plastic brush to work it in, soak it in the Simple Green solution for a few minutes, take it out and use a strong stream from the hose to rinse them off. Repeated a couple of times, you can get all of the dirt out of them like this.

You can test crankcase oil passages by aiming the strong stream of water from the hose into the threaded fitting that the oil filter screws onto. It should come out all the crankcase oil jets when you do this.

Blow the parts off with compressed air to dry them off. For steel parts, after any water-based cleaning, dry them off and spray them with WD40 promptly. Crankshafts, con-rods, wrist-pins, cylinder wall surfaces, transmission parts.

If you have gasket residue to remove, first step is gasket remover solvent, second step is a plastic scraping tool. A plastic knife can work, a plastic brush, a windshield ice scraper blade can work, or you can make one. Don't use abrasives or metal scrapers or knives. Then repeat the cleaning process.

If you refinish cylinder walls, you have to remove all honing debris. Spray cylinder walls with WD40 then wipe them down with a clean white paper towel. If there is any hint of grey, the honing debris is not all gone - do it again. It may have to be done several times before the paper towel comes out wetted from the WD40 but without a grey tinge from honing debris. Then do it once or twice more just to make sure.

Taking an engine out of a bike is typically a dirty job. Putting it back together and back into the bike, should be a clean job.
 
Stoddard solvent was recommended for an aircraft cleaning issue. I spent days looking for it only to find it's the generic name for Varsol. IIRC Esso owns the Varsol name. It's little different from BBQ lighter other than the lighter has less odour.
 
Water :I it is the universal solvent .... for inside an engine; oil, because water is the universal solvent and motors normally contain oil.
 
Alcohol always seems to clean me out of cash.
 
I have use plain old kerosene with good results.

Precautions need to be taken since it's flammable, but otherwise... Cheap and effective.

Do you know Is there a difference between the a-1 kero you can get at stores for lamps vs the kero you can get at a few gas stations on the pump? or are they both safe to use?
 
Second for Kerosene - not too aggressive that you have to worry about seals (except brakes) and doesn't permit microbial growth like Varsol once contaminated. Flammable, yes, but not to the degree of most automotive solvents.
 
Do you know Is there a difference between the a-1 kero you can get at stores for lamps vs the kero you can get at a few gas stations on the pump? or are they both safe to use?


No idea...
I bought some from Canadian Tire... It's labelled "Kerosene"
 
Do you know Is there a difference between the a-1 kero you can get at stores for lamps vs the kero you can get at a few gas stations on the pump? or are they both safe to use?

where are those?
would be good to have a supply for bulk kerosene
 
where are those?
would be good to have a supply for bulk kerosene

Lambert oil
4505 Baldwin Street whitby
2145 Dundas St W, Toronto, ON M6R 1X1- I've never been to this location so i'm not sure if they have it here

You need a blue can to fill up though they wont let you use anything else. I wonder if thats the stuff that broke my o-ring lol
 
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