What did you do to your Race/Track Bike today - 2014 | Page 49 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do to your Race/Track Bike today - 2014

N3WMAN said:
**** just got real.
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I had also put on a few lbs again over the last year (enjoying food a little too much). I was up to 196lbs but I'm back into a good gym routine (twice on weekdays) and the weight is dropping. I even managed to not gain any through all the Christmas meals and snacks! I'm aiming for 175lbs the next time I put on my leathers.
 
Looks good, Tim. I too need to get back in shape. Being sidelined last summer really hurt my fitness.
 
caboose56 said:
I had also put on a few lbs again over the last year (enjoying food a little too much). I was up to 196lbs but I'm back into a good gym routine (twice on weekdays) and the weight is dropping. I even managed to not gain any through all the Christmas meals and snacks! I'm aiming for 175lbs the next time I put on my leathers.
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I had a hard time with fitness last season so I'm back to the grind for the next 5 moths to fix that. I had 6 good hard laps and then I'd start to get tired, by the 8th lap I was just wishing for the white flag. You can make it through a 10 lap AM race but a 20 lap pro race would be agonizing.

Hopefully you get some good results from the head work. I don't think top end is in my budget this year so it's just bearings and a proper tune for me. I guess I can just ride the GSXR if I need more hp.
 
I missed the podium twice last year by one spot, at the last Race round and last SOAR round, both times I had a comfortable lead in 2 and 3rd and ran out of steam by the 6th lap and lost the podium on the last lap.

Something I am going to fix this upcoming year.

I did get a second place on the Superbike qualifier, which is only 6 laps at SOAR.
 
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Fitness and conditioning is much more important than some people think.

My fastest laps usually come at the end of a race. CSBK Shannonville this year was 14 laps, my fastest lap was my last lap. I do need to work on going faster in the early stages of a race though! ha.

Derrick, this head work will cost me about $100. Not too spendy.
 
caboose56 said:
Derrick, this head work will cost me about $100. Not too spendy.
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Obviously, you're doing the epoxy work yourself. Been there ... It will be easier on your head than on mine; you've got more room to work (bigger ports). Watch out for fuel chemistry, alcohol is a no-no, and I don't know how nice it will play with race fuel. I've heard that applying a layer of automotive urethane clear-coat on top of the epoxy will help with chemical resistance, but I never found out about that until I had finished mine. Even without that, it will last years if you are using Shell 91.
 
Good to know about the urethane. I don't plan on using race fuel but I might have to for CSBK (not that I'll finish high enough to be quarantined).
 
caboose56 said:
Good to know about the urethane. I don't plan on using race fuel but I might have to for CSBK (not that I'll finish high enough to be quarantined).
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Sunoco 260gtx is mandatory for pro, no alternative for pump.

I may endup doing some head work. My personal time is too valuable to me to spend hours upon hours in the garadge. Well more hours anyway.
 
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The use of an aliphatic polyurethane over epoxy resins are primarily designed for UV stability. While there may be minimal gains in terms of stain and abrasion resistance, you will have no other benefit and expose yourself to other dangers. The combination of a thin film polyurethane may add in an architectural application for long term colour stability. However the use of the urethane, whether alkyd extended or acrylic or polyester based as a thin film application in a thermal cycling, elevated temperature or gaseous environment will result in blister formation and film deterioration leading to delamination of the polyurethane topcoat and fragment release.

caboose56 said:
Can you elaborate??


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epoxy and ethanol are a no-no, it eats away the epoxy and loosens it. try to fabricate a throttle body insert. for a smaller diameter.. for my fcrs i had 37mm made. they just screw in. bike make as much low end power as a twin now.
 
Ethanol is the devil! None ever goes into my bike anyhow.


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Phenolic and novolac epoxies can withstand ethanol however unfortunately these tend to be "industrial epoxies" where consumer available epoxies tend to be polyamide and polyamine epoxies which have poor resistance to ethanol.

racepro171 said:
epoxy and ethanol are a no-no, it eats away the epoxy and loosens it. try to fabricate a throttle body insert. for a smaller diameter.. for my fcrs i had 37mm made. they just screw in. bike make as much low end power as a twin now.
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I've never had an issue with JB Weld Marine in that application. But, I try to run it on Shell V-power (no ethanol). The bike has had a few tanks of E10 through it in the USA when non-ethanol fuel was not available. I've never tried the CSBK spec fuel (which has a lot of ethanol - enough that it would likely require recalibration) and I've never tried race fuel since doing the epoxy job.
 
Brian P said:
I've never had an issue with JB Weld Marine in that application. But, I try to run it on Shell V-power (no ethanol). The bike has had a few tanks of E10 through it in the USA when non-ethanol fuel was not available. I've never tried the CSBK spec fuel (which has a lot of ethanol - enough that it would likely require recalibration) and I've never tried race fuel since doing the epoxy job.
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The JB Weld Marine was what I was intending on using.

For now I'm not even remotely worried about problems with using the Sunoco race fuel.
 
Hmm let's see....duc got Woodcraft bars installed, a 1/6 turn throttle from an R6, new grips, and new clutch fluid. Today I adjusted the valves and checked belt tension.

Piles left to do, including repairing and painting bodywork, getting my wheels set up with bolts and pins that permit quicker changes, and servicing the suspension. But it sure is nice having an indoor workshop now where I can fiddle with things at my leisure all winter long.
 
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