@oioioi took the bike out for a quick romp yesterday, and happy to say that I did notice an improvement in the 90-120kph in terms of buffeting and wind on my chest. Above 120-130kph it's as bad as it was before...kind of a natural speed limiter.
Also happy to report no leaks after my oil change, so all good there.
@oioioi took the bike out for a quick romp yesterday, and happy to say that I did notice an improvement in the 90-120kph in terms of buffeting and wind on my chest. Above 120-130kph it's as bad as it was before...kind of a natural speed limiter.
Also happy to report no leaks after my oil change, so all good there.
I still think you need a Vstrom with a full Givi screen.
Rumour has it that there is no wind in your face or buffering with the visor up even at 150km/hr.
I have yet to confirm this myth.
Tried out a new fabrication material and made some quality of life improvements in the garage this weekend.
I made a pair of compact swingarm spool stands out of schedule 40 steel pipe and pipe floor flanges. It turns out that 1" sch40 pipe nests nicely inside 1-1/4" sch40 pipe, so the stands telescope a bit for adjustability via a set of holes and a beefy PTO pin. These stands are going to be replacements for the car jackstands that I use on the track bike, which has no sidestand. The jackstands are just a really awkward shape for storage and transportation, and the pipe stands will be a lot more convenient.
I also drilled and stuck a hitch ball through a 1" sch40 pipe stub, then mounted a pipe flange to a sturdy post in the garage. This allows me to quickly secure the hitch thingy to the post so that I can load and unload the bike from the trailer in the garage without needing to pull the car around. And the pipe flange is nearly flush when the hitch thingy is removed, so there's no permanently protruding lump of steel to bash my shins on.
All of my hand-drilled holes through the pipe were good enough for the purpose, but they're not very even. I should have spent some time with the disk sander to make sure the cut ends were square, and I think I want to find a place to fit a drill press now.
Tried out a new fabrication material and made some quality of life improvements in the garage this weekend.
I made a pair of compact swingarm spool stands out of schedule 40 steel pipe and pipe floor flanges. It turns out that 1" sch40 pipe nests nicely inside 1-1/4" sch40 pipe, so the stands telescope a bit for adjustability via a set of holes and a beefy PTO pin. These stands are going to be replacements for the car jackstands that I use on the track bike, which has no sidestand. The jackstands are just a really awkward shape for storage and transportation, and the pipe stands will be a lot more convenient.
I also drilled and stuck a hitch ball through a 1" sch40 pipe stub, then mounted a pipe flange to a sturdy post in the garage. This allows me to quickly secure the hitch thingy to the post so that I can load and unload the bike from the trailer in the garage without needing to pull the car around. And the pipe flange is nearly flush when the hitch thingy is removed, so there's no permanently protruding lump of steel to bash my shins on.
All of my hand-drilled holes through the pipe were good enough for the purpose, but they're not very even. I should have spent some time with the disk sander to make sure the cut ends were square, and I think I want to find a place to fit a drill press now.
Ignore the curved aluminum thing in the first picture - that's the bike's sharkfin (designed to keep your fingers/toes out of the sprocket), not part of the stand. The stands are 8" of 1" pipe, with 6" of 1-1/4" pipe nested over them, fastened to some wood scraps I had lying around. Total materials cost was under $50 for the pair.
I cut the 1" pipe to length so that when I use a single stand in "side-stand" mode, the spool rests directly on the 1" pipe and the 1-1/4" pipe is just there to guide the spool into the correct alignment. When I use the two stands together (to get the rear wheel off the ground for chain adjustment or wheel changes), the 1-1/4" pipe is telescoped higher and bears the weight.
I still think you need a Vstrom with a full Givi screen.
Rumour has it that there is no wind in your face or buffering with the visor up even at 150km/hr.
I have yet to confirm this myth.
I can confirm it. I changed from a fixed to Madstadt adjustable screen - a game changer.
I don't mind the wind on me, the screen does a great job in rain.
I had a Laminar Lip attached to the top of the screen -- bad decision - it caused a shake Elvis would be proud of. Sadly I had to drill 2 small holes in each side of the screen, they remain as a reminder to never use that contraption again.
I can confirm it. I changed from a fixed to Madstadt adjustable screen - a game changer.
I don't mind the wind on me, the screen does a great job in rain.
I had a Laminar Lip attached to the top of the screen -- bad decision - it caused a shake Elvis would be proud of. Sadly I had to drill 2 small holes in each side of the screen, they remain as a reminder to never use that contraption again.
One negative and probably the only, of my screen is that it is not great in the rain.
Because of its mainly flat shape and the angle it is mounted at, it does not allow the rain drops to disperse to the sides.
If I have it at its highest position, I have to be looking through the rain drops while my visor gets less rain.
But I find it better to lower it and let the rain hit my visor which will disperse to the sides due to the shape of the visor.
Other than that, its a great windshield.
I do wish there was the F1 visor tear offs available for the windshield so I can just tear away the bugs and not have to wipe it with a squirt of soapy water. This also leads to more micros scratches.
Not really the garage, but I sprayed the first coat of paint on the interior of my barn, all the walls are plywood and I wanted to brighten it up.
In hindsight I should have used a sealer as it really soaked in the paint and I'll need a couple more cans...
Not really the garage, but I sprayed the first coat of paint on the interior of my barn, all the walls are plywood and I wanted to brighten it up.
In hindsight I should have used a sealer as it really soaked in the paint and I'll need a couple more cans...
How many gallons does this take? What did you use for a gun? I normally use LVLP but it would be beyond painful for that much surface and I'd want airless.
I still think you need a Vstrom with a full Givi screen.
Rumour has it that there is no wind in your face or buffering with the visor up even at 150km/hr.
I have yet to confirm this myth.
Used 2.5 gallons so far (had a 1/2 can from another painting project)
Total area maybe 800-850 sqft (that is just a guess) 9ft walls.
Some new plywood and some old from when it held horses in the 90's
I'm just using a cheap sprayer I bought off amazon when it had a huge sale price.
It actually works great, I just think the paint a bit. I'm impressed at how well it works and how well the paint goes on, just that the wood was like a sponge. It's a barn so does not need to be a perfect job, I think another 2 gallons and I'll be done. I'm going to let it sit this week as it'll be too hot to do anything, I'll check on it next weekend and see how it looks...
Pucks that close to motorized toys? I don't trust my kids that much. I'd at least hang a curtain or sheet to take some energy out of the puck/stick before it hit something shiny.
Pucks that close to motorized toys? I don't trust my kids that much. I'd at least hang a curtain or sheet to take some energy out of the puck/stick before it hit something shiny.
My son has a similar set up in the basement.
We initially went with the skate-able version but my son didn't really like it after several times. We added more of the regular ones that you cant skate on.
Be prepared to add more. Kids will want a bigger playing surface.
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