What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 157 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

My Garage doors are beat to hell and will need to be replaced. But with other projects on the go I'm trying to hold off while I can.
So I need to replace the side, top and bottom seals. There are a million options on Amazon but does anyone have a product they have used and would recommend? I'll be installing myself.
When I needed a bottom seal asap (froze to the floor, ripped off door and then wife drove over it), I called the local garage door shops. One dropped off a piece of what they use (Aluminum U, rubber bulb seal) and a handful of screws for what I thought was a reasonable price. I needed to cut it to fit as expected but it's fine. For big things, amazon often has crazy prices. I have no idea about side/top seals but I would ask the local shop about them too.
 
When I needed a bottom seal asap (froze to the floor, ripped off door and then wife drove over it), I called the local garage door shops. One dropped off a piece of what they use (Aluminum U, rubber bulb seal) and a handful of screws for what I thought was a reasonable price. I needed to cut it to fit as expected but it's fine. For big things, amazon often has crazy prices. I have no idea about side/top seals but I would ask the local shop about them too.
Yea, I'm installing things myself so just want to hit up Amazon if possible. As I am sure it will all be replaced when I purchase new doors. While I want inexpensive I don't want cheap, this is why I asked.
 
When I needed a bottom seal asap (froze to the floor, ripped off door and then wife drove over it), I called the local garage door shops. One dropped off a piece of what they use (Aluminum U, rubber bulb seal) and a handful of screws for what I thought was a reasonable price. I needed to cut it to fit as expected but it's fine. For big things, amazon often has crazy prices. I have no idea about side/top seals but I would ask the local shop about them too.
Stupid question but how do you attach it with the screws? Mine froze to the garage floor last week and I was able to push it back on as it only came off in the middle couple of feet but I'd like to put a couple new screws as there's a slight gap there (never an issue before but epoxy now on floor made it more "grippy" in those conditions I've found out). I haven't given it a proper look but on quick look don't see how to get at the screws.
 
Stupid question but how do you attach it with the screws? Mine froze to the garage floor last week and I was able to push it back on as it only came off in the middle couple of feet but I'd like to put a couple new screws as there's a slight gap there (never an issue before but epoxy now on floor made it more "grippy" in those conditions I've found out). I haven't given it a proper look but on quick look don't see how to get at the screws.
Straight into the face of the door panels The same way every hinge and roller is attached. I put in six so that it would never pull off again but I suspect three would have been enough. I have no idea how much force the motor makes when the strip is frozen to the floor though.

Since I had separate bulb and track, I guess conceivably I could have run the screws up through the track and then put the bulb in but that was unnecessary imo.
 
Stupid question but how do you attach it with the screws? Mine froze to the garage floor last week and I was able to push it back on as it only came off in the middle couple of feet but I'd like to put a couple new screws as there's a slight gap there (never an issue before but epoxy now on floor made it more "grippy" in those conditions I've found out). I haven't given it a proper look but on quick look don't see how to get at the screws.
A lot of them look like this, you can see the track would be screwed to the bottom of the garage door and the seal slips into the track
1706128751520.png
 
A lot of them look like this, you can see the track would be screwed to the bottom of the garage door and the seal slips into the track
View attachment 65750
I was wrong, mine is an L, not a U. I still prefer that to an I. I am not relying on screw threads alone to fight the ice.

2_inch_best_image_burned_grande.jpg


This is the plastic one that failed.

U-ShappedBottomWeatherstripping.jpg




EDIT:
Are you just replacing rubber or rubber and holder? Home depot stocks the rubber.
 
A lot of them look like this, you can see the track would be screwed to the bottom of the garage door and the seal slips into the track
View attachment 65750
Pretty sure mine looks like this. So by the looks of this the panel would have to be out of the tracks (out of the doorway) to be able to slide the rubber out to replace a screw?
 
Pretty sure mine looks like this. So by the looks of this the panel would have to be out of the tracks (out of the doorway) to be able to slide the rubber out to replace a screw?
If I was adding a screw, I would just drill through the rubber to make a clearance hole and then run the screw in.
 
I was wrong, mine is an L, not a U. I still prefer that to an I. I am not relying on screw threads alone to fight the ice.

EDIT:
Are you just replacing rubber or rubber and holder? Home depot stocks the rubber.
Mine is an aluminum U. I bought the rubber from my local garage door guy, and slid it into my original aluminum U. I had to open up the little grooves in a few spots where they had been squeezed a little too tight from use. I removed the extrusion to do so. Rubber was 2 bucks a foot.
 
I was wrong, mine is an L, not a U. I still prefer that to an I. I am not relying on screw threads alone to fight the ice.

2_inch_best_image_burned_grande.jpg


This is the plastic one that failed.

U-ShappedBottomWeatherstripping.jpg




EDIT:
Are you just replacing rubber or rubber and holder? Home depot stocks the rubber.
Had mine replaced recently. It was this "U" profile rubber only. The new strip was a taller "squishier" strip. The old one laid flat was about 3
' versus about 5" for the new taller one. Since my floor has settled a bit I have an uneven gap and this seals it much better.
 
IF?
Checking the ring gap IS necessary. Always, every time.
And if you polish the exhaust valve, less schmoo will stick to it.
Checked.

=< .40mm is spec.

I got drag on the feeler gauge at .27 mm

Anything under .25 is a bit too tight. Possibly not giving the rings enough room to expand in the cylinder when they heat up.

Borrowed my friends circlip install tool. Practiced on the old piston. Slick tool. Better than trying to pry it in with a screwdriver... scuffing up the side of the piston, and likely jabbing myself in the hand while trying...

Will reassemble and check deck height tomorrow night.
7f06515f7d21ea5943b72b146ae4a04d.jpg


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Already got them. EDIT: Whoops, these are UFO. All black was $220.

Stock colours were $70. I was surprised. Individual pieces were expensive. $30-40 for the tailpiece alone.

I just realized your bodywork is the same as the FS 450 plastics that this guy put on his KTM 950 (along with a 1290 motor). $70 is a steal for the full set. Where'd you get them from?

387779499_3570033059991544_7967541989984221063_n.jpg
 
I just realized your bodywork is the same as the FS 450 plastics that this guy put on his KTM 950 (along with a 1290 motor). $70 is a steal for the full set. Where'd you get them from?

387779499_3570033059991544_7967541989984221063_n.jpg
Fortnine.

It wasn't quite a full set.

No headlight plastic, or fork guards.

Sides, shrouds, rear tail, front fender.

Edit:
The $220 black set was a Polysport kit.
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