Used Track Bike, What to look for?

[boyoboy]

entry level track bike? http://www.vrra.ca/board/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26092

Those old vrra vintage racing guys have lots of money. $3000.. awesomely track prep'd montreal or not. lwt sportsman/lwt sbk eligible RACE/SOAR or TD it.

edit-$2950 OBO 61rwhp dyno tuned. extensive spares, rains, stands... faaack

 

[dricked]

While you are probably right(I don't have carbon fibre frame or body work, nor a built motor), it seems you glossed over the point of my post. I am FOR buying a built bike.

Lol nope I got it, just pointing out your very bold claim to having “literally every part you could ever want on a track bike”. The Ti fasteners alone would be into the $1000’s

 

[Pantich]

Ok.

Please ask about regional racing if you are interested or if you want to just learn more or come to the track to see it.

Thanks I will

I think I can offer insight here as I was in your position late last year..

I turned two street cars into track-only cars and spent a lot more than I would like to admit. Everyone told me the same thing; "buy a racecar that is done!" I did not listen and my wallet regretted it, although I did learn a lot from the process. Fast forward 3 years(after selling the racecars), I decided to buy a dedicated track bike, but this time I listened and ended up buying a 05 GSXR600(ex-race bike) for $3000. I've since spent about the same getting it just right for my standards, but had I gone the other way, I am absolutely sure it would have been double that. I now have a bike that literally has every part you could ever want on a track bike but for 1/3 the price. That saved money can now be spent on gaining experience(track day/school costs), buying consumables, or upgrading safety gear.

Ultimately you'll do what you want to do so all the power to you. Just have fun with it!

Thanks for sharing your experience

 

[limitsreached]

Lol nope I got it, just pointing out your very bold claim to having “literally every part you could ever want on a track bike”. The Ti fasteners alone would be into the $1000’s

Literally may have been too strong a word! I did look at Ti bolts for the front calipers....$70.00 for 4.... :lmao:

 

[Owen]

Before doing the endurance race I did the intro course with Racer5 and that entitles me to have a racing license, I just need to apply for one.

I'm looking at the racing fees, it seems like they are not more expensive than a track day. If I read it correctly for CSBK lightweight it's about $250 for the weekend + $75 annual membership.

If you did the Racer5 course, you can just pay for your Shannonville regional license and don't have to do their license program. I did the same thing.

Sounds like you're already to go except for the bike!!

CSBK is a step up from regionals at Shannonville but cost wise, it's comparable if you're doing two classes at Shannonville. There is always a Friday practice day that is basically run like a track day. I think it's $135 paid in advance, which is additional to the Saturday/Sunday race fees...can't remember exact amount for but it's around there.

 

[Pantich]

If you did the Racer5 course, you can just pay for your Shannonville regional license and don't have to do their license program. I did the same thing.

Sounds like you're already to go except for the bike!!

CSBK is a step up from regionals at Shannonville but cost wise, it's comparable if you're doing two classes at Shannonville. There is always a Friday practice day that is basically run like a track day. I think it's $135 paid in advance, which is additional to the Saturday/Sunday race fees...can't remember exact amount for but it's around there.

I'll try and get organized to do a weekend at Shannonville...

 

[STR]

To me racing is way more fun than track days. So if you're at all interested you should come and check it out. Practice weekend is only 35 days away.

 

[Winales_2017]

I won't bother with the displacement feud as I started on a liter bike, and reluctantly admitted it was too much bike after my first low-side; so despite having track experience on turbo cars, I couldn't adapt to the hp. I went down to 600 as it was a good deal on a pro-am race bike.

My race bike (in the avatar) developed a leak that took me forever to find after storing it after my last track day late 2017; at first I thought it was my Ohlins cartridges, but then ruled it out after stripping the fairings. Then I thought it was the oil pan as it looked like oil diluted with some fluid. Then thought it was the stator cover etc... this went on over the off-season.


Long short after going over everything with fluid I found it was a cheap Chinese petcock on my tank dripping gas and mixing with some residual debris/tire/oil on the chassis. This took months to pinpoint as it was the most unlikely culprit considering how much money was spent on the parts suspension/rear sets/clip-ons/quick shift etc... I only found out what it was yesterday after a really hard shake down and stripping the tail/belly pan.

Ask to have the fairings (at least belly pan) taken off and have it up in the air with a rear jack and take it through all the gears on cold start up and have a look over after getting in warm. This assumes it has rear sliders, of course, but what race bike doesn't have any?

In my experience, most won't let you test ride unless you have cash on hand and are super eager to sell it as they aren't usually road legal, so getting a feel for how she runs is critical. Just know that a race bike has been abused, regardless, so some wrenching and replacement of parts on your end will be required.

 

[Pantich]

To me racing is way more fun than track days. So if you're at all interested you should come and check it out. Practice weekend is only 35 days away.

I won't bother with the displacement feud as I started on a liter bike, and reluctantly admitted it was too much bike after my first low-side; so despite having track experience on turbo cars, I couldn't adapt to the hp. I went down to 600 as it was a good deal on a pro-am race bike.

My race bike (in the avatar) developed a leak that took me forever to find after storing it after my last track day late 2017; at first I thought it was my Ohlins cartridges, but then ruled it out after stripping the fairings. Then I thought it was the oil pan as it looked like oil diluted with some fluid. Then thought it was the stator cover etc... this went on over the off-season.


Long short after going over everything with fluid I found it was a cheap Chinese petcock on my tank dripping gas and mixing with some residual debris/tire/oil on the chassis. This took months to pinpoint as it was the most unlikely culprit considering how much money was spent on the parts suspension/rear sets/clip-ons/quick shift etc... I only found out what it was yesterday after a really hard shake down and stripping the tail/belly pan.

Ask to have the fairings (at least belly pan) taken off and have it up in the air with a rear jack and take it through all the gears on cold start up and have a look over after getting in warm. This assumes it has rear sliders, of course, but what race bike doesn't have any?

In my experience, most won't let you test ride unless you have cash on hand and are super eager to sell it as they aren't usually road legal, so getting a feel for how she runs is critical. Just know that a race bike has been abused, regardless, so some wrenching and replacement of parts on your end will be required.

Yep I did have in mind to check it for leaks and get a feel for how it runs.
Thanks