Used Track Bike, What to look for?

[Owen]

Thanks for all your replies guys, plenty of great suggestions!

After talking to some people and looking at availability of used N300 I'm more inclined to buy a street bike and take it to track.
I just feel more comfortable with a bike that has probably not been crashed hard and it's easier for me to recognize possible damages.

@Owen for sure I'll post it in here

If you take a street bike to the track, it will cost you more in the long run repairing all the stuff you break. It will happened sooner or later

If Jacobs bike is in your budget, it's a safe buy even though it's been down (all track/race bikes have). Steve's bike is also a good buy if your budget is a bit more restricted.

Do you already have a street bike? Or are you looking for something to do a bit of everything?

 

[boyoboy]

OP you should try to hook up with Owen and chat bikes with him. After re-reading your op it sounds to me like you're open to the idea of racing. Owen is offering up to share his experience with you. You will save money, avoid pitfalls, and have a lot of fun. Dive right in and buy a lwt race bike. yeah baby.

 

[STR]

Buying a street bike and converting it will cost at least twice as much as buying one already done...says the guy who's converting two street bikes this winter

 

[Brian P]

I've only done 3 track days ever. All were on 600's in red group, as I had race experience. But I do recall shanny lwt racers on this forum expressing concern about being put out with lost era bikes (600-1000) during practice. Likewise, I can remember a lwt rider expressing concern about being passed at grand bend by bigger bikes who drove it up the inside on straights, only to park it in the corners. This essentially ruins the lwt riders pace. I would think this is somewhat problematic for someone on a lwt bike. The speed differential on straights is substantial, and concerning. Add in an inexperienced 1000 rider, and ..well, all bets are off lol. It seems to me that one may be better off on a bike similar to the vast majority of other riders. Its only an opinion so .. take it as that.

For someone just starting out (original poster) this is unlikely to be an issue YET. They won't have the cornering speed anyhow ... yet. They'll be starting out in green group where no one has the cornering speed. If they get fast enough to start being held up ... move up a group. If they progress even further and being held up by fast bikes with slow riders becomes a real issue, it's time to get your roadracing license, at which point it becomes much less of a problem.

 

[Pantich]

If you take a street bike to the track, it will cost you more in the long run repairing all the stuff you break. It will happened sooner or later

If Jacobs bike is in your budget, it's a safe buy even though it's been down (all track/race bikes have). Steve's bike is also a good buy if your budget is a bit more restricted.

Do you already have a street bike? Or are you looking for something to do a bit of everything?

@Owen I don't have a street bike nor am planning on using the bike on the street. For now I'll probably be able to do 5 or 6 TD during the year and at my level I don't really need anything more powerful than a stock 300.

If I buy a street one the only things I'm planning on doing is changing fairings (I found some in the range on $300- $600), adding frame protections and putting on some new tires.
Of course I'll also need bike stands, spare parts etc...

Do you think I will need more stuff?

 

[Pantich]

OP you should try to hook up with Owen and chat bikes with him. After re-reading your op it sounds to me like you're open to the idea of racing. Owen is offering up to share his experience with you. You will save money, avoid pitfalls, and have a lot of fun. Dive right in and buy a lwt race bike. yeah baby.

@boyoboy I'm not planning on racing for now. Let's see how my first year of track days goes first LOL

Buying a street bike and converting it will cost at least twice as much as buying one already done...says the guy who's converting two street bikes this winter

@STR I guess it really depend how much you want to change the bike from stock. Or maybe there is something I'm not considering?

 

[Owen]

@Owen I don't have a street bike nor am planning on using the bike on the street. For now I'll probably be able to do 5 or 6 TD during the year and at my level I don't really need anything more powerful than a stock 300.

If I buy a street one the only things I'm planning on doing is changing fairings (I found some in the range on $300- $600), adding frame protections and putting on some new tires.
Of course I'll also need bike stands, spare parts etc...

Do you think I will need more stuff?

If you're not using it on the street, best way is to get one already prepped. If you find a used one that's been dropped on the street for $2800-3000, then you're in to it for $3400 after fairings....with stock front/rear suspension and no "race" parts like foot risers or any spares. For around the same price or a little more, you can find a bike safety wired and with aftermarket suspension, exhaust and all the extra small stuff.

What is you budget for the bike?

Also, frame sliders are not the greatest on the track. When you crash, the bike slides on the pavement. Then those things catch in the grass and fling the bike everywhere. Not always but more likely to bend the frame that way. I crashed my Ninja 250 12-14 times (lost count) and have no frame or engine damage. The consensus seems to be the engine case covers are a good idea to prevent grinding through the engine cases when your bike slides.

If you're planning on doing that many track days, you will gain way more skill and knowledge by doing the race license and tossing in a couple race weekends. Basically the same as a track day except you're surrounded with likeminded riders and tend to pick up more from people around you. Maybe a good idea to make it a goal to do one race weekend mid/end of the season?

A lot of us jumped straight in to racing with zero experience. Worst that happens is you just ride at the back of the pack.

 

[Brian P]

@boyoboy I'm not planning on racing for now. Let's see how my first year of track days goes first LOL


@STR I guess it really depend how much you want to change the bike from stock. Or maybe there is something I'm not considering?

Bodywork. You really don't want to smash up the stock stuff. It's expensive. If/when you crash, fiberglass usually is ugly but serviceable afterwards. OEM ABS plastic explodes into a million pieces. Fiberglass is easier to repair at home.

Exhaust system. See above. And the stock one is really heavy.

Suspension. The stock stuff may be OK for starting out, but it is likely that you will run into its limitations pretty quickly.

If you buy something that is already a track bike, this stuff should already be taken care of.

 

[Pantich]

If you're not using it on the street, best way is to get one already prepped. If you find a used one that's been dropped on the street for $2800-3000, then you're in to it for $3400 after fairings....with stock front/rear suspension and no "race" parts like foot risers or any spares. For around the same price or a little more, you can find a bike safety wired and with aftermarket suspension, exhaust and all the extra small stuff.

What is you budget for the bike?

Also, frame sliders are not the greatest on the track. When you crash, the bike slides on the pavement. Then those things catch in the grass and fling the bike everywhere. Not always but more likely to bend the frame that way. I crashed my Ninja 250 12-14 times (lost count) and have no frame or engine damage. The consensus seems to be the engine case covers are a good idea to prevent grinding through the engine cases when your bike slides.

If you're planning on doing that many track days, you will gain way more skill and knowledge by doing the race license and tossing in a couple race weekends. Basically the same as a track day except you're surrounded with likeminded riders and tend to pick up more from people around you. Maybe a good idea to make it a goal to do one race weekend mid/end of the season?

A lot of us jumped straight in to racing with zero experience. Worst that happens is you just ride at the back of the pack.

I'd like to keep the cost of the bike to max $4000/$4500 including necessary aftermarket components.
Good to know that frame sliders are not necessary so I'll save these money and invest them in a better body work instead

I never seriously thought about racing just because I assumed it's expensive and the bike needs to be better set up (bodywork, safety wired...) but I'll actually check it out.
I did do an endurance race weekend with Racer5 last year and it was way more exciting than a simple track day.

To be completely honest if I could find more rental opportunities (like racer5) during the year that are closer to Toronto I'd just keep renting.

Thanks

 

[Pantich]

Bodywork. You really don't want to smash up the stock stuff. It's expensive. If/when you crash, fiberglass usually is ugly but serviceable afterwards. OEM ABS plastic explodes into a million pieces. Fiberglass is easier to repair at home.

Exhaust system. See above. And the stock one is really heavy.

Suspension. The stock stuff may be OK for starting out, but it is likely that you will run into its limitations pretty quickly.

If you buy something that is already a track bike, this stuff should already be taken care of.

I see how it can become expensive quickly.

 

[miggs]

All you really need is bodywork, fuel, and tires to have fun at the track.
Once you reach limits of the bike and yourself, look at suspension work.
If you are just starting out then you won't miss what you don't have...

 

[boyoboy]

does the racer 5 enduro/school qualify a person for an AM race licence? Im thinking it may. might want to check with them.

 

[Slick_Steveo]

does the racer 5 enduro/school qualify a person for an AM race licence? Im thinking it may. might want to check with them.

It's supposed to, but the race organization may want to evaluate that person.

Especially if they just show up, without a mentor. Nothing wrong with taking a 1 day race school to familiarize yourself with the track and the organization's procedures.





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[Pantich]

Before doing the endurance race I did the intro course with Racer5 and that entitles me to have a racing license, I just need to apply for one.

I'm looking at the racing fees, it seems like they are not more expensive than a track day. If I read it correctly for CSBK lightweight it's about $250 for the weekend + $75 annual membership.

 

[bakaboy]

Before doing the endurance race I did the intro course with Racer5 and that entitles me to have a racing license, I just need to apply for one.

I'm looking at the racing fees, it seems like they are not more expensive than a track day. If I read it correctly for CSBK lightweight it's about $250 for the weekend + $75 annual membership.

You should start at regional racing with RACE or SOAR.

Please don't try and start at CSBK for your first racing experience.

 

[Pantich]

does the racer 5 enduro/school qualify a person for an AM race licence? Im thinking it may. might want to check with them.

It's supposed to, but the race organization may want to evaluate that person.

Especially if they just show up, without a mentor. Nothing wrong with taking a 1 day race school to familiarize yourself with the track and the organization's procedures.





Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

You should start at regional racing with RACE or SOAR.

Please don't try and start at CSBK for your first racing experience.

Ahahah I wasn't thinking on doing CSBK but that's the only one that I could quickly find info on.

 

[bakaboy]

Ahahah I wasn't thinking on doing CSBK but that's the only one that I could quickly find info on.

Ok.

Please ask about regional racing if you are interested or if you want to just learn more or come to the track to see it.

 

[limitsreached]

I think I can offer insight here as I was in your position late last year..

I turned two street cars into track-only cars and spent a lot more than I would like to admit. Everyone told me the same thing; "buy a racecar that is done!" I did not listen and my wallet regretted it, although I did learn a lot from the process. Fast forward 3 years(after selling the racecars), I decided to buy a dedicated track bike, but this time I listened and ended up buying a 05 GSXR600(ex-race bike) for $3000. I've since spent about the same getting it just right for my standards, but had I gone the other way, I am absolutely sure it would have been double that. I now have a bike that literally has every part you could ever want on a track bike but for 1/3 the price. That saved money can now be spent on gaining experience(track day/school costs), buying consumables, or upgrading safety gear.

Ultimately you'll do what you want to do so all the power to you. Just have fun with it!

 

[dricked]

I think I can offer insight here as I was in your position late last year..

I turned two street cars into track-only cars and spent a lot more than I would like to admit. Everyone told me the same thing; "buy a racecar that is done!" I did not listen and my wallet regretted it, although I did learn a lot from the process. Fast forward 3 years(after selling the racecars), I decided to buy a dedicated track bike, but this time I listened and ended up buying a 05 GSXR600 for $3000. I've since spent about the same getting it just right for my standards, but had I gone the other way, I am absolutely sure it would have been double that. I now have a bike that literally has every part you could ever want on a track bike but for 1/3 the price. That saved money can now be spent on gaining experience(track day/school costs), buying consumables, or upgrading safety gear.

Ultimately you'll do what you want to do so all the power to you. Just have fun with it!

Need, maybe. Want....impossible.

Buy a built bike.

 

[limitsreached]

Need, maybe. Want....impossible.

Buy a built bike.

While you are probably right(I don't have carbon fibre frame or body work, nor a built motor), it seems you glossed over the point of my post. I am FOR buying a built bike.