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UPDATE: Engine bolt extraction.
- Thread starter bravot4
- Start date
Riceburner
Well-known member
DIY?
Brantford, Ontario but I am willing to make the drive anywhere around GTA. Will also pay as well.
Riceburner
Well-known member
Spray some penetrating oil into the hole. Use a punch to indent a starter spot in the center, drill a pilot hole, tap in the extractor. Twist out.
Thanks for the advice but I have no experience in these type of situation. The only thing I do on my own to this bike is the oil change. I am looking for anybody or place that have the equipment/tools with experience to perform this task. I've been told by the dealership that I bought this bike from that they don't want to touch it and that this task can go south real quick and I would need a new engine which they said would cost $8000.00!!!!
If you drill it,i would suggest a left hand drill bit.It might just spin out nicely.
J_F
Guest
a new engine is a little extreme
but yeah, if the drill bit wandered off centre
and started into the engine casing you'd be in a pickle
with good lighting
good patience
and good tooling
this is fairly simple
edit:
if it's a slider bolt
it's probably been loctited in
a welder can get this out easy
short piece of pipe with OD the same as the frame hole ID
butts up against the stub of the bolt and is welded to it
the heat will break the loctite and then use a pipe wrench to turn the whole works out
that is your best bet
and this is the downside of frame sliders
but yeah, if the drill bit wandered off centre
and started into the engine casing you'd be in a pickle
with good lighting
good patience
and good tooling
this is fairly simple
edit:
if it's a slider bolt
it's probably been loctited in
a welder can get this out easy
short piece of pipe with OD the same as the frame hole ID
butts up against the stub of the bolt and is welded to it
the heat will break the loctite and then use a pipe wrench to turn the whole works out
that is your best bet
and this is the downside of frame sliders
Last edited:
lol, easier said than done, comming from a machinist of 20 years
You gotta be F*cking careful and good to get that bad boy out without making a bloody mess, ask me how I know
Id use a dremel to make a center point
and Id also use a carbide drill to get thru that bolt cleanly.
and dont cheap out on extractors, cause if you snap that inside the hole then your screwed
Mad Mike
Well-known member
1) Drill trough the snapped part of the bolt using a drill press.
2) Place it back in the frame and use it as a drill guide to drill thru the stuck part of the bolt.
3) Try an easy out. If that doesn't work, continue using J_F's suggestion, just weld the bolt back together thru the pilot hole.
Careful with the heat if you're welding -- cleaning up dripping aluminum is messy.
Find out how long the stuck bolt is -- you don't want to go all the way thru.
2) Place it back in the frame and use it as a drill guide to drill thru the stuck part of the bolt.
3) Try an easy out. If that doesn't work, continue using J_F's suggestion, just weld the bolt back together thru the pilot hole.
Careful with the heat if you're welding -- cleaning up dripping aluminum is messy.
Find out how long the stuck bolt is -- you don't want to go all the way thru.
sburns
Well-known member
J_F
Guest
after having a closer look at that pic, OP
looks to me like that slider bolt was loose
and the collar in the centre of the slider was moving around against the frame
guessing this is why that bolt broke
I used to ride an FZ6 and had frame sliders on it
until I started to see outcomes like this
sure plastic is expensive
but a broken frame is the end of the bike
looks to me like that slider bolt was loose
and the collar in the centre of the slider was moving around against the frame
guessing this is why that bolt broke
I used to ride an FZ6 and had frame sliders on it
until I started to see outcomes like this
sure plastic is expensive
but a broken frame is the end of the bike
Trials
Well-known member
For that bolt to break off where it did, I would be concerned that the threads bottomed out before the bolt head came tight against the frame when it was installed. Who installed it? If the threads did bottom out before the bolt was torqued it will be in there particularly tight, you are not going to want to hear this but personally I would begin by removing the engine.
TK4
Well-known member
That's my thought too - jack up the motor, unbolt the remaining fasteners and see if you can wiggle the whole assembly out.
Then, extracting the broken bit should be fairly easy ?
Trials
Well-known member
If you absolutely must drill it out as it sits, (basically a bush fix) I would make a drill guide bushing for the frame hole, use that as a drill guide, to centre the drill and keep it going straight while you are drilling the broken bolt, then try an easy-out, if it still doesn't move then increase the drill size up to the largest size you can use without damaging any engine casing threads.
In a worst case scenario, if the original threads are damaged in the extraction process, it will need a hell-coil insert repair and that will need the motor removed from the frame to facilitate.
... don't put a frame slider back on, they never were a great idea if you are going to use one engine mount as the part that takes the bunt of virtually any impact.
In a worst case scenario, if the original threads are damaged in the extraction process, it will need a hell-coil insert repair and that will need the motor removed from the frame to facilitate.
... don't put a frame slider back on, they never were a great idea if you are going to use one engine mount as the part that takes the bunt of virtually any impact.
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