I don't think it's "machos", I think you're just using wrong terminology and going about this the wrong way and are in over your head, and the responses reflect that.
Bikes don't normally "understeer" or "oversteer", those are car terms. They "slide the front" or "slide the rear", but at normal street speeds, unless you hit sand/gravel/other slipperiness (which no amount of suspension fiddling can solve!) that ain't happening.
Bikes can "stand up" or "fall in" after their lean angle has been set, and this leads to the bike feeling like it wants to "run wide" (if the bike wants to "stand up" if you were to hypothetically take your hands off the bars mid-corner), or "wash out" (if it wants to keep falling into the corner). This is geometry, not damping, and geometry is affected by ride heights front and rear, sag settings front and rear, tire profiles front and rear. After the bike has stabilized in the corner, it's also affected by spring rates (because the extra load from cornering loads the suspension more) and fork oil level (because the air remaining above the oil level compresses and acts as an air spring).
Of course, the damping has a secondary effect, because uncontrolled ride height motions (front or rear) lead to uncontrolled variations in geometry.
There is a ton of info out there on this. Get the books recommended earlier in this thread, and read them. In the meantime, stop trial-and-error, which won't work when you don't know what you are looking for and don't know how to explain the symptoms you are feeling with the correct terminology, and get it set up by the professionals.
Bikes don't normally "understeer" or "oversteer", those are car terms. They "slide the front" or "slide the rear", but at normal street speeds, unless you hit sand/gravel/other slipperiness (which no amount of suspension fiddling can solve!) that ain't happening.
Bikes can "stand up" or "fall in" after their lean angle has been set, and this leads to the bike feeling like it wants to "run wide" (if the bike wants to "stand up" if you were to hypothetically take your hands off the bars mid-corner), or "wash out" (if it wants to keep falling into the corner). This is geometry, not damping, and geometry is affected by ride heights front and rear, sag settings front and rear, tire profiles front and rear. After the bike has stabilized in the corner, it's also affected by spring rates (because the extra load from cornering loads the suspension more) and fork oil level (because the air remaining above the oil level compresses and acts as an air spring).
Of course, the damping has a secondary effect, because uncontrolled ride height motions (front or rear) lead to uncontrolled variations in geometry.
There is a ton of info out there on this. Get the books recommended earlier in this thread, and read them. In the meantime, stop trial-and-error, which won't work when you don't know what you are looking for and don't know how to explain the symptoms you are feeling with the correct terminology, and get it set up by the professionals.
