Torque wrench 5ft/lb - 80 ft/lb | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Torque wrench 5ft/lb - 80 ft/lb

Would you guys recommend this?

I have some hand me downs in terms of torque wrenches but I am not sure of their accuracy.
I was thinking of picking up a new set of 3/8 and 1/2.

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Or would one of the ones from Amazon be a better choice?

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I wouldn't trust Amazon to buy something as critical as tools. Even if it's a name brand, there are a lot of fakes on that site.

IMO, generally for places to buy tools: Home Depot > Crappy Tire > Amazon > AliExpress
 
I wouldn't trust Amazon to buy something as critical as tools. Even if it's a name brand, there are a lot of fakes on that site.

IMO, generally for places to buy tools: Home Depot > Crappy Tire > Amazon > AliExpress
What's wrong with a AliExpress toque rench.

Sent from the future
 
What's wrong with a AliExpress toque rench.

Sent from the future
Maybe nothing at all. It's one of those deals where you are trading a lower upfront price for more time and effort testing and verifying before you can trust it to do the job you needed. I've thought about building a quick and easy multi-point calibration setup in the garage. We'll see if I get around to it. A welder would help but I think I can build it without one. It will probably wait until I stumble upon suitable parts.
 
I hope not. My craftsman is Almost 50 years old.
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When I started wrenching I think I was about 8 years old. My dad needed instructions to use a screwdriver, by my retired Italian neighbor was a master - he did small engines in his garage and always had time to teach me. He gave me his bar-torque wrenches, said he stopped using them decades ago.

He used to make me torque bolts without looking at the bar, claimed a good mechanic learned to feel torque. He was very good, with his eyes closed he could hit the mark.

I got good too, i can still get within a few inches of a click without looking. I don't think I've used a torque wrench on anything under 50hp for decades.
 
I sometimes wonder how many people actually know how to torque a bolt. Based on a lot of years watching mechanics and expert YouTube builders ... my guess is a very small number.
 
They put theirs' in the general guidelines for tools. LINK

Everybody else puts it in the first paragraph pretty much. LINK

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Use your tools however you want, but don't pretend the manufacturers tell you it's ok.
While I agree with the sentiment the hand-wringing "won't anybody think of the children" tone of those bullets is quite ridiculous. The highly stressed internal components causing a severe injury would take a special kind of dumb where you set it for high torque and then drive out the pin holding the head. On click wrenches I have seen, you can back off spring tension to zero and remove the stored energy safely. Lowest common denominator rules. It is easy for someone to put a lot of torque through the wrench after it clicks with no indication of how much. If someone really wanted to use their torque wrench as a breaker bar, set the torque near the top and it will give you a click when it's had enough and you will know it is time to change strategies.
 
Princess auto has some pretty good sales on torque wrenches right now. I picked up a spare 1/2" drive 150 ft/lb one there yesterday for $19.99 on the "Special Buy" rack. Just couldn't pass that up.

Wingboy, I thought I was the only person who still had one of those classics LOL.
I occasionally dust mine off. No batteries, no remembering to release the tension.
 
I occasionally dust mine off. No batteries, no remembering to release the tension.
I gave my beam to my brother. I've been keeping my eyes open for a dial wrench. Hopefully they become half affordable as working techs all upgrade to electronic wrenches. A dial wrench seems to combine most of the good qualities with few of the bad ones.
 
While I agree with the sentiment the hand-wringing "won't anybody think of the children" tone of those bullets is quite ridiculous. The highly stressed internal components causing a severe injury would take a special kind of dumb where you set it for high torque and then drive out the pin holding the head. On click wrenches I have seen, you can back off spring tension to zero and remove the stored energy safely. Lowest common denominator rules. It is easy for someone to put a lot of torque through the wrench after it clicks with no indication of how much. If someone really wanted to use their torque wrench as a breaker bar, set the torque near the top and it will give you a click when it's had enough and you will know it is time to change strategies.
Warnings are always over the top. Unfortunately, it's usually for a reason.
All my CNC machines have stickers that say "Do not touch rotating tool" because somebody touched the rotating tool.

The 'Click' is not the only thing going on in a torque wrench. You have a pivot point that runs on a pin. This joint is not designed to be used as you would a standard ratchet.

Why do you want to use a relatively expensive tool for something that it was not designed to do when you can use the cheap tool that was made for it?

Again, just use the tool that was made to do the job you are doing.
 
I guess my Husky torque wrench is tougher than your pansy EGA.

Note bullet 3. My 3/4 torque wrench goes up to 250ft/lbs. That's a reasonable qualification to use it to loosen overtightened wheel nuts.
 
I guess my Husky torque wrench is tougher than your pansy EGA.

Note bullet 3. My 3/4 torque wrench goes up to 250ft/lbs. That's a reasonable qualification to use it to loosen overtightened wheel nuts.
No one is going to stop you using a drill as a hammer. It's a free country.
 

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