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CanadianTire maximum torque wrenches
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Torque wrench 5ft/lb - 80 ft/lb
- Thread starter Chris-CJ
- Start date
Would you guys recommend this?
I have some hand me downs in terms of torque wrenches but I am not sure of their accuracy.
I was thinking of picking up a new set of 3/8 and 1/2.
general-plp-template
Or would one of the ones from Amazon be a better choice?
I have some hand me downs in terms of torque wrenches but I am not sure of their accuracy.
I was thinking of picking up a new set of 3/8 and 1/2.
general-plp-template
Or would one of the ones from Amazon be a better choice?
New does not necessarily equal accurate. Just calibrate the ones you have (or if they are way off and cant be dialed in, break them so they don't kill someone). I've posted on gtam at least a few times before how you can check calibration.
Fwiw, unless I am inside of an engine, I never use my 3/8". 1/2" gets all the use for my common wheels/brakes/suspension jobs.
And if you're just using it for wheels accuracy isn't that important, within reason, you're more worried about repeatability. Doesn't REALLY matter if the lug nuts are at 80# or 87.6776#... as long as they're all the same
A torque wrench is only as good as it's last calibration. Get your OLD wrench calibrated, every year.
A torque wrench is only as good as it's last calibration. Get your OLD wrench calibrated, every year.
I borrowed a good (and calibrated) torque wrench one year to check mine. They were way off. That's when I started calibrating mine. When set to 100 ft-lb, I was getting 70. It has been stable since. Was it wrong right out of the box? Maybe. I never loaned it out and it was never dropped.
Found this on the interwebs.
Seems to be well written and easy to do.
How to Calibrate a Torque Wrench (with Pictures) - wikiHow
Seems to be well written and easy to do.
How to Calibrate a Torque Wrench (with Pictures) - wikiHow
What's the wrong way and what's the right way?
Not bad. I clamp a sacrificial socket in the vise as I am not interested in clamping my precision instrument. It tells you not to make it too tight but you want to calibrate close to where you are using it so for me that is around 100 lb-ft. A light clamp won't work. For their example, a 2' torque wrench at 40 ft-lbs is probably close to the bottom of it's useful measuring range.
I would not do all of their manual correction crap. That is asking for trouble. If you can't calibrate it, break it so nobody will try to measure torque with it.
Eh... the MAXIMUM wrenches are better, the DeWalt wrenches were better than that but it looks like those got replaced with Stanley (probably still better) and they all go on sale for roughly the same price.
Unfortunately they ALL have the same 1 year warranty these days. It used to be that the Maximum wrenches had lifetime warranties on them (not on the calibration!). Mine technically have that, but I haven't had to test whether they'll fight me on honouring it for a long time now
See? now that's why I said "within reason". Do you think you could tell the difference now? 70 is tight, 100 is REAL tight.
To get close to accurate with an accurate torque wrench, you torque all the fasteners up to about 75-80%, then slowly pull them up to torque, you want to pull at least 1/4 turn before it clicks, increasing pull as you turn. You want to sneak up on the "click"
The problem with "click" type torque wrenches is you can set it at 80#, then it'll let you YANK on it at 150# in short pulls. Go slow.
And that second click, the just to be sure one, will put it over torque every time.
I got lucky enough to be able to spend a week rebuilding hydraulic pumps in south korea with one of the best parker techs in the world (he was flown in from somewhere in Europe). We had every spare part in the world for those pumps shipped in. IIRC, when reassembling, final torque was over 400 ft-lbs. No fancy hydraulic wrenches or torque-multiplying just a big ass torque wrench. Once we had the pumps back in service, I could do the job I was hired to do. I recommend not blowing up banks of pumps when up against a tight deadline.
I see people using torque wrenches to loosen fastener all the time. Makes me cringe.
I also see people using impact guns to install lug nuts and then thinking it's good because the torque wrench clicks when they put it on at the end.
Very rarely have I witnessed tires actually being installed properly. This includes shops/mechanics.
I also see people using impact guns to install lug nuts and then thinking it's good because the torque wrench clicks when they put it on at the end.
Very rarely have I witnessed tires actually being installed properly. This includes shops/mechanics.
A sad number of mechanics use a torque stick and call it a day. Some use a torque wrench. I dont think you'll find many that do a 1/4 turn with the torque wrench.
daught
Well-known member
Why would it damage a click torque wrench? After it clicks the spring is not getting any additional pressure. Sure when you get in to breaker bar with extension territory you can damage the wrench, but for loosening over torqued wheels I can't see a problem.
Assuming the last person properly torqued it, it probably won't damage the torque wrench. That being said, it's a precision instrument and should not be used for brute force jobs as there is a potential to throw it off. My torque wrench is my longest ratchet. It would be easy to put a ton of force through it (especially with a bounce). I have a 4' 3/4" breaker bar I use when things are stuck (assuming impact gun can't work for some reason). At one point a mechanic apparently put my wheel back on with their gun set to stun. I figure I needed something north of 800 ft-lbs to break the wheel bolts free. No idea how they didn't break. I was bouncing at the end of the 4' bar. Torque wrench probably wouldn't have survived that abuse.
You can get away with using a drill as hammer for a while as well.
I bet one of the first things written in the user manual is 'do not use this wrench to loosen fasteners.'
Use tools for the job they are meant for.
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daught
Well-known member
What are we betting on? https://images.homedepot.ca/pdf/ Specifications_1000788224-pdf.pdf
Look up how click torque wrenches work. It will make sense why using them as breaker bars(within reason) does not change their calibration.
Look up how click torque wrenches work. It will make sense why using them as breaker bars(within reason) does not change their calibration.
Good tips on how to use a torque wrench.
Also, the torque wrench is calibrated from the centre of the square drive to the centre of the handle.
Some torque wrenches have a groove in the centre of the handle, which marks where the force is measured from:
If your torque wrench has that groove, you want to make sure you hand is centred on that groove and when you tighten, try to use that groove as the point where you exert the most force.
Don't overclick. If you hear the click once, maybe try again just to make sure, but the more times you torque and click it, you may be in danger of over-torquing.
I always store the torque wrench in it's unwound state, especially if I'm not going to use it for a long period of time. If you use it daily, then you may not need to unwind it.
Also, the torque wrench is calibrated from the centre of the square drive to the centre of the handle.
Some torque wrenches have a groove in the centre of the handle, which marks where the force is measured from:
If your torque wrench has that groove, you want to make sure you hand is centred on that groove and when you tighten, try to use that groove as the point where you exert the most force.
Don't overclick. If you hear the click once, maybe try again just to make sure, but the more times you torque and click it, you may be in danger of over-torquing.
I always store the torque wrench in it's unwound state, especially if I'm not going to use it for a long period of time. If you use it daily, then you may not need to unwind it.
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