-Maverick-
Well-known member
So the wheel would have to come off and back on again, and repeat until the sweet spot is found. It can't be done on the bike as seen in video two seeing they are studs and not bolts?
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
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Tight Chain / Loose Chain
- Thread starter -Maverick-
- Start date
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
Sounds like one link is seized. Probably over tightened the master link when installing the chain and trying to mushroom the ends.
-Maverick-
Well-known member
Brit Biker
Well-known member
When chains get dried out or rust inside link barrels the take the form of the sprocket when wrapping around then are tight on the straight because they can not flatten out. If it's a seal O ring chain. Replace it.
Trials
Well-known member
Assembly #10 the cushion drive rides on it's own bearing system, that rides on the same axle as the rim which has it's own bearings.
If the 2 assemblies do not run concentric to each other that is a bearing problem. The cushion drive is just rubber bushings to reduce shock on the rear hub. You can shatter hubs without it, those rubber could be any shape at all just as long as the rubber is not beat up or dried out.
-Maverick-
Well-known member
It's a brand new bike. See the videos at the top of the thread.
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
-Maverick-
Well-known member
Seeing the bike is brand new, it has to be what we see in the videos above, the sprocket and or shock absorber hub isn't sitting true on the hub of the rim. An assembly issue. What I'm wondering specifically is it possible to do what's seen in video #2 with the rim on the bike? Video #2 has bolts, this bike has studs / nuts so trying what is done in video #2 likely won't work. Taking it off turning it quarter turn and reinstalling it over and over to find the true spot is a lot of work. If that's the case, I will try for warranty.
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
-Maverick-
Well-known member
Excellent idea, thank you, will try tomorrow and report back.bike have a center stand, or you have a rear stand?
this is what I'd try...loosen that circle of nuts
get rear tire off the ground
run bike in first gear for a few minutes and the sprocket should true itself
torque back up, adjust chain tension and check
With that five sided hub, there's nowhere to hook a dial indicator to to check the runout visually.
Hope this works!
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
CB900F2
Well-known member
Give chain monkey a try.. works like a charm!!!
www.tru-tension.com
Chain Monkey - Motorcycle Chain Tensioning Tool | Tru-Tension USA
The Chain Monkey is a revolutionary chain tensioning tool designed to enable precise chain tension for motorcycle and motorsport enthusiasts.
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There is only one foolproof way to adjust the tension on your chain. You're supposed to pull the shock, but you can do it with a strong ratchet strap. Once the CS sprocket, SA pivot, and axle are in line, rotate the back wheel to find any high spot on the rear sprocket. Mark it, and rotate the wheel a half dozen times stopping at the mark to make sure you're not hitting a high spot on your CS sprocket (rare, but it does happen). With the rear sprocket on the high spot, adjust your chain with a couple of MM of slack. Yes, it's a PITA, but it's the only way to be 110% right.
Trials
Well-known member
On having your sprocket centre itself on the hub while running: Good luck with that.
what direction does your chain pull in; from the top of the sprocket to the top of the sprocket, or towards the centre of the axle? ... in my world if you loosen the driven sprocket, that sprocket will be pulled towards the direction of the countershaft sprocket as much as it is physically allowed to.
what direction does your chain pull in; from the top of the sprocket to the top of the sprocket, or towards the centre of the axle? ... in my world if you loosen the driven sprocket, that sprocket will be pulled towards the direction of the countershaft sprocket as much as it is physically allowed to.
-Maverick-
Well-known member
I think the better idea is to loosen the chain then loosen the hub nuts, spin the wheel by hand forward, then backwards, which is what I did. I tightened the chain on the tight side last time, soaked it in WD40, let it sit on the stands for a day or two, and when I went to adjust it this time, the tight spot was considerably less. I'm thinking the chain had some tight spots from not moving for so long (three years without moving). The fact that WD40 has corrected the problem 90% proves this. Regardless, I did crack the nuts on the hub, moved the wheel back and forth, then went to tighten the nuts and found the nuts were spinning with the studs and Aprilia got me again with some speciality tool to hold the stud in place. So I had to zip them with an impact gun, then torqued them. No real difference. Conclusion, I think three scenarios are possible here on a brand new bike:On having your sprocket centre itself on the hub while running: Good luck with that.
1) A tight chain (from sitting)
2) A poorly placed sprocket ie impact gun at the factory
3) An imperfectly round, non concentric sprocket.
Edit 1: Anyone know what the tool is to hold the studs in place on an Aprilia Dorsoduro sprocket hub? I don't like using an impact gun, but not having the tool forced me to.
Edit 2: Seeing these threads, this is an obvious thing with Aprilia:
Check your sprocket nuts & bolts
AF1 Racing is a top-rated authorized Aprilia, Vespa, Piaggio, Moto Guzzi, Zero, Energica, Ural and SWM
www.apriliaforum.com
rear sprocket bolts loose
AF1 Racing is a top-rated authorized Aprilia, Vespa, Piaggio, Moto Guzzi, Zero, Energica, Ural and SWM
r.tapatalk.com
Sprocket carrier nut loose from the factory.
AF1 Racing is a top-rated authorized Aprilia, Vespa, Piaggio, Moto Guzzi, Zero, Energica, Ural and SWM
r.tapatalk.com
Sprocket Carrier Bolts
AF1 Racing is a top-rated authorized Aprilia, Vespa, Piaggio, Moto Guzzi, Zero, Energica, Ural and SWM
r.tapatalk.com
Sprocket carrier nut loose from the factory.
AF1 Racing is a top-rated authorized Aprilia, Vespa, Piaggio, Moto Guzzi, Zero, Energica, Ural and SWM
r.tapatalk.com
Lesson learned:
Italian brands are work. Buy Suzuki
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
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Trials
Well-known member
" I tightened the chain on the tight side last time" <- Never do that, you are potentially putting an incredible load on your wheel bearings, swingarm bearing and the countershaft. Better to have the chain on the side of too loose and add a spring loaded chain tensioner if it is flopping around too much.
Your chain is a sealed type roller chain, the only lubrication it has inside the sealed parts is what the factory originally put in there, if it is not completely full of grease then there is air in there and air can be replaced by water from condensation or from outside sources. It is the water that causes rust and destroys your chains and bearings internally. The slightest amount of play inside a roller bearing will result in a whole bunch of play by the time you measure it at the perimeter of a 20+ inch diameter wheel. Rust inside a chain causes the links to bind and seize, almost nothing else can do that short of pounding on the chain with a hammer.
Why don't you just replace the chain and take the hub apart to inspect it for problems? Things like a rear sprocket potentially being out of round will become immediately and obviously apparent.
Your chain is a sealed type roller chain, the only lubrication it has inside the sealed parts is what the factory originally put in there, if it is not completely full of grease then there is air in there and air can be replaced by water from condensation or from outside sources. It is the water that causes rust and destroys your chains and bearings internally. The slightest amount of play inside a roller bearing will result in a whole bunch of play by the time you measure it at the perimeter of a 20+ inch diameter wheel. Rust inside a chain causes the links to bind and seize, almost nothing else can do that short of pounding on the chain with a hammer.
Why don't you just replace the chain and take the hub apart to inspect it for problems? Things like a rear sprocket potentially being out of round will become immediately and obviously apparent.
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Trials
Well-known member
In my experience; the manufacturer warranties against defects in materials and manufacture only. It is rarely in the dealers best interest to find and issue a manufacturer warranty claim when that have a customer right there they can submit a bill to for their complete service. If you as the customer can't identify something that is an obvious defect in materials and manufacture, you certainly won't find many service dealer that will volunteer that service for you, they are too busy trying to prove it's not a warranty issue. ymmv.
... the bike was manufactured in 2016. Aprillia isn't going to make good on a 4 year old claim that might be rust related. OP has even stated he set the chain too tight in an attempt to address the chain problem.
OP your rear sprocket rides on bearings, not on rubber, it's the bearings that hold the sprocket in place, the rubber cushion drive is simply a rubber cushion drive, it carries nothing and it holds nothing in alignment with anything else. It's a torsion shock absorber for the rear wheel only.
... the bike was manufactured in 2016. Aprillia isn't going to make good on a 4 year old claim that might be rust related. OP has even stated he set the chain too tight in an attempt to address the chain problem.
OP your rear sprocket rides on bearings, not on rubber, it's the bearings that hold the sprocket in place, the rubber cushion drive is simply a rubber cushion drive, it carries nothing and it holds nothing in alignment with anything else. It's a torsion shock absorber for the rear wheel only.
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TK4
Well-known member
Just because its New Old Stock doesn't mean the dealer shouldn't step up - its only got 1,000 kms on it.
Its either a warranty or a PDI issue - either way, take it back and make a fuss.
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