The "Official" Watch Thread and all Things Horological | Page 58 | GTAMotorcycle.com

The "Official" Watch Thread and all Things Horological

I've decided it's time for a dressy watch, classic and clean design and fits well under a cuff. Any recommendations would be very welcome, especially for microbrands I may not have heard of.

Criteria are a budget somewhere between $750 to $1500, so no Rolex or Omega this time. Want three hands (I love the look of some of the Hamilton Intra-Matic models, but no seconds hand would drive me nuts), but no subdials or busy faces. Preferably a leather strap, though a bracelet isn't a dealbreaker, as it can always be swapped. Also needs to be colours that work with a variety of suits, so no Tiffany blues etc. if I can get something that's not owned by Swatch, that would be a small bonus, but again, hardly mandatory. Size can be anywhere from 35ish though somewhere around or just under 40 seems to be a sweet spot.

Right now, Frederique Constant is the leading candidate, with a number of classically styled models that fit the budget, especially in the Classics Index line. There's a Tissot Chemin de Tourelles model that looked fantastic under the bright jewellers lights when I was at Ashley, and Hamilton makes a bunch of options, though I'm not keen on an American brand, even if Swiss made. Longines stretches the budget for most of their dress watches, but I do like the clean styling. The Mido Baroncelli line is an option, though I find the styling to be a bit modern for what I'm looking for. I could also go vintage, but they're often too small for my wrist, and clean watches that have been serviced reputably are often quite pricy.

Any other ideas or suggestions would be most welcome!
Up for a road trip and expanded budget? 80 yo 18K Calatrava is being auctioned in Indiana. Its not grossly.over your budget now but I expect it will get ridiculous.

 
Up for a road trip and expanded budget? 80 yo 18K Calatrava is being auctioned in Indiana. Its not grossly.over your budget now but I expect it will get ridiculous.

There's a few other interesting watches buried in there, though none even close to that level. None worth the headache of figuring out how to get it home, either. That Patek will make someone very happy, but the small seconds and roman numerals leave an unbalanced face that doesn't really work for me. Not to mention it'll definitely end up selling for a lot more than the top bid now...
 
Somewhat interesting. Not sure about the style. Lots of tech.

What's so appealing about that one? I assume plain jane eco-drive keeps time well enough that it rarely requires an adjustment. Adding satellite time and a perpetual calendar (in a quartz watch) have zero value for me. Just adds more mess to the face with little benefit imo.

FWIW, I have an atomic solar G-shock. Probably more than a decade old at this point. It works reasonably well. The atomic came with the watch but I didn't really want it. I use it as a travel watch mostly as it does world time easily (as well as time at home). Autoset can be annoying as without an independent clock, you don't know if it has updated or not (mainly applicable to DST and changing time zones).
 
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What's so appealing about that one? I assume plain jane eco-drive keeps time well enough that it rarely requires an adjustment. Adding satellite time and a perpetual calendar (in a quartz watch) have zero value for me. Just adds more mess to the face with little benefit imo.

FWIW, I have an atomic solar G-shock. Probably more than a decade old at this point. It works reasonably well. The atomic came with the watch but I didn't really want it. I use it as a travel watch mostly as it does world time easily (as well as time at home). Autoset can be annoying as without an independent clock, you don't know if it has updated or not (mainly applicable to DST and changing time zones).

I think this is different. It doesn’t use the time signal from Colorado but uses gps location instead. My atomic signal watches are great but the time signal isn’t always consistently available. If you want a consistently extremely accurate time keeping device (which is the main function of a watch) using the latest technology then this might tickle your fancy.

It’s interesting to me but the style isn’t great. It does look a bit aviator in style sort of though.

Edit: My Citizen atomic watch is hit and miss with the time signal. It will pick it up and adjust time eventually but it can take a few tries. My Casio atomic is a bit better. This watch supposedly is the fastest to adjust time exactly. I haven’t read but since it’s satellite based I wonder if it adjusts time zones automatically too.
 
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He has a Universal automatic with the second hand as a small dial at the 6o’clock mark . Early 1960s for $650.00

Popped in to Millennium yesterday, thanks for the tip! Raphael is a character, and full of stories. Lots of really interesting watches to go with the tales, too. Saw the Universal, and it's beautiful. I'm usually with @FullMotoJacket in not liking small seconds, but it keeps the 6 o'clock marker, so doesn't look unbalanced on the dial. Price is down to $600, and he was selling it hard, but it's just not shiny enough for what I'm looking for right now.

Speaking of shiny, he has a Longines that needs a service that I left a deposit pending repair (esp. crown), but having gone home and Googled it, I suspect it may be a redial. Everything about the case, case back, hands and especially markers suggests a first-gen Conquest, but the logo is unusual and sans serif, and I haven't been able to find any examples with "automatic" in the same font. Any comments from those more familiar with old watches would be much appreciated. If it's a no-go, there's a few others that would work, including a beautiful Zenith. He's asking $1000 after repair and service, which would be very fair for an all-original Conquest, but not sure if that's too much for a redial.

Here's a few pics of the Longines in case anyone has insight:

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Personally, I would find a way to make the Zenith work.

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Personally, I would find a way to make the Zenith work.

It's gorgeous, and noted. But I prefer a stainless case, partly as my wedding ring is tungsten carbide so goes better with a white metal, and partly as I don't want to pay the extra for a solid gold case when I'm more interested in the dial and movement. The Longines above ticks those boxes, but having the gold indices and hands dresses it up a bit.

The Zenith I am also looking at is a plated one for less than a third as much. For $2000, there are new watches I prefer, I think.
 
So a while back I got ripped off for batteries and was told ‘these will last for years and years’.

Shockingly they’re both dead. Looks like I’ll have to give my handy dandy new tool a shot to see if I can replace both batteries soon as I get them out.

Damn sneaky Polaks…
 
Chickened out on the Longines, the dial wasn't good enough for the price. Decided instead for a Hamilton Accumatic A-506, a real late-'60s special with unique numbers of the era. A bit of a transition between the restraint of the '50s and wackiness of the '70s. I'm a sucker for a linen dial, and this one's is in good shape. Has a modified ETA movement, and keeps okay time for its age, having picked up about 20 seconds over roughly 12 hours. One unusual note is the movement is accessed through the crystal, no caseback opening. Here's a pic:

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The acrylic crystal has a few light scratches, so I may see about getting it polished (all the shadows you see in the pic are from the crystal, not the dial, which seems to be mint with only the hands showing a bit of age. Otherwise, it's calling out for a crocodile-embossed calfskin strap. It's definitely vintage sized, just under 33 mm, but will work well under cuffs. Now I just need to bide my time for a decent original Longines Conquest to show up at a fair price...

If anyone's interested (I can stare at watch repair videos for hours), here's a service video of the same model:

 
Nice watch! I like the linen dials too. Classy. I love those repair and restore videos and could watch them all day. You might want to get some Polywatch and have a go at cleaning up that crystal yourself.
 
Nice watch! I like the linen dials too. Classy. I love those repair and restore videos and could watch them all day. You might want to get some Polywatch and have a go at cleaning up that crystal yourself.

Thanks!

I'd like to get it fully cleaned and serviced, if only for peace of mind and to minimise wear. I do have a cheap Citizen NY0040 diver with mineral crystal that has picked up a light scratch, may practice on that first before messing with a vintage crystal...
 
I have never tried it, but I think it is made for acrylic crystals. Not sure if it would work on mineral. If it does let me know. I have a bad one. You probably have a local guy, or can find one. If not, the guy in Cookstown is good. He did a nice job on my Dad's Omega, around the same vintage. I think crystals for those old watches are not difficult to source. I found Perrin through this thread. (Thanks guys!) They have a guy who does nothing but crystals and has his own phone line for same.
 
Lots of Tissot powermatics on sale on Amazon. The PRX dress range and the Seastars are all discounted. Not incredible sales but not bad.
 
What's the collective wisdom here one the yacht master 42 in ti. I like the weight factor any mayor cons?

Sent from the future
Cons are they are apparently very limited (two per AD) so I'd expect crazy pricing and difficulty sourcing one.

What draws you to YM? You want Ti and the only other Rolex option is ugly?
 
Cons are they are apparently very limited (two per AD) so I'd expect crazy pricing and difficulty sourcing one.

What draws you to YM? You want Ti and the only other Rolex option is ugly?
Also looking for something that could be handed down I have a few citizens but would like something nicer.

Sent from the future
 

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