The life of a chain and sprockets | GTAMotorcycle.com

The life of a chain and sprockets

M

Merkid

Well-known member
I'm looking into buying a used late '90s Suzuki GSX 1200 in-line four with 55K on it.

Everything looks well cared for except the owner has not replaced the chain and sprockets. I tested the chain end-play at the rear sprocket by pulling it outward. There is little noticeable slack on it which would seem to indicate minimal wear. The sprocket teeth are straight too.

How long can factory chains and sprockets manage to keep functioning with an owner diligently maintaining them?
 
I replaced on my Klr at 20ks it started rolling up
 
I have heard claims of some chains lasting a pretty long time, so there is no number which I would consider impossible - would just go entirely by condition. If sprockets look good, no o-rings are missing, there are no frozen/sticky links, chain is not stretched, master link looks good... then I'd say there is no need to replace it. I would keep an eye on it initially to see if it starts leaking lube once you have ridden it a bit
 
The chain on my ZX10R has 50,000 km on it and is fine. On the other hand, I've trashed a set in 10,000 km.

The difference ... The set that was trashed quickly, I bought into some hype, and used "Chain Wax". Never again. The secret ... is to do what Kawasaki's shop manuals have always recommended: Oil. Just, plain, oil. It's messy, it flings off, and it carries the dirt and contamination off with it when it does so. The only chains on any bike that I have ever had to replace since switching to oil, are the non-O-ring chain that I use on my race bike, and the undersized and hard-working little chain on my cbr125 (and even that one went 40,000-ish km if I remember right).
 
About 4% elongation and your chain is done, if you don't replace it then, you are going to be buying sprockets before very long. That applies to all roller chain regardless of application.
 
Is it hard to replace a chain / sprockets on your own?

How to tell when the sprockets need changing?
 
ad51df0dcaac7449b834fb528738c0ff.jpg


Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
mimico_polak said:
Is it hard to replace a chain / sprockets on your own?

How to tell when the sprockets need changing?
Click to expand...
not hard if u have the proper tool
check petes-superbike, they have chain and sproket kits at 25% off, got mine there
if you are changing the rear sprocket try to loosen them before cutting ur chain.
 
Last edited:
mimico_polak said:
Is it hard to replace a chain / sprockets on your own?
Click to expand...

An important and misunderstood part is setting enough chain slack. Consult the manual for your particular model because there's no such thing as a "standard" amount. Its purpose is to prevent binding when the two sprockets are farthest apart as the swingarm moves through its arc, so it depends on the position of the countershaft sprocket in relation to the swingarm pivot and rear sprocket. On one end of the extreme, BMW's and Husqvarna's with the countershaft sprocket shares the same center of rotation as the swing arm) require almost no slack because the distance is constant as the swingarm moves. My Hawk is at the other end of the extreme, and I'm constantly harrased by anyone who sees it that my chain is dangerously loose, even though it's just right:

 
mimico_polak said:
Is it hard to replace a chain / sprockets on your own?

How to tell when the sprockets need changing?
Click to expand...
Does this mean you got a bike? Sprockets are easy, old chain off is easy (grinder). I like clip masters so on is easy for me. Many people prefer rivet masters so they need the tool.
 
Relax said:
All these years I've been using regular pliers for the clips. Then I saw this recently:

Click to expand...
Hmm. I've always used normal pliers. I have a set of notched pliers for hose clamps that might work but I have never bothered trying. I don't need to pull a chain often and it's good practice getting the links on and off with just the tools in your bike.
 
A good rule of thumb, is to pull back on the furthest rearward link. If you can see more than half of a sprocket tooth, the chain is toast. It's usually a good idea to replace chain and sprockets as a set. Putting a new chain on even slightly worn sprockets will accelerate the wear on it.
 
Last edited:
Wingboy said:
A good rule of thumb, is to pull back on the furthest rearward link. If you can see more than half of a sprocket tooth, the chain is toast. It's usually a good idea to replace chain and sprockets as a set. Putting a new chain on even slightly worn sprockets will accelerate the wear on it.
Click to expand...

I’ve read arguments both ways but I agree, I always change them together

Now should you use chain lube, wax, or oil??

Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
 
mimico_polak said:
Is it hard to replace a chain / sprockets on your own?

How to tell when the sprockets need changing?
Click to expand...
It’s very easy to swap them out.
The money saved doing it the first time paid for the tools to do the job.

I now use the screw type links and they are super easy to do and no rivet tool required.

I think I’ve gotten over 60k off a chain using the HHS lube and thought that Tom got around 70k off one of his.
 
Apparently I need a 520/112 chain...but can’t understand then store told me I need a minimum of 110....isn’t that too short?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom