I have a fairly large assortment of folding knives. Lots of those cheap A/O pocket knifes and some original Canadian made Buck knives.
Its nice to own cool knives but its even more fun to learn the fine science of sharpening them. I use a Japanese stone sometimes, or my Chef's Choice XV Trizor to get the edges correct (I normally use the 10 degree Japanese cut vs the German 17). Once I get the angle I want I smooth it off on the wet stone and then diamond polish it with a special attachment on my bench grinder. Then I use a leather strop to get last bit of wire smoothed off.
You can sharpen the cheapest knife into something that will slice through anything. Almost took my finger off with one I sharpened, happened so fast I didn't even feel it until I saw the cut.
We have one too -- wife loves it - she uses it on everything, I could probably shave with our butter knife.I also bought the Chefs Choice trizor sharpener , as a go to electric sharpener its quiet surprising . Puts a really nice edge onto a knife in short order.
I recommend you dont tell too many friends about it or you'll be doing every bodies knives.
I used to use those until I found this one. I like it so much better. I don't even know if I have any twist-lock with straight blades in them anymore.Ballers in this thread too.
When I was in the textile business I got pretty good at sharpening. Our knives had self sharpening belts that would keep them razor sharp, but occasionally you'd hit a needle, staple or pin that nicked the blades. Then we had to get out the bluestone and work them back to perfect.For sharpening I've got a 1x30 belt sander, similar to this. Lee Valley has nice 3M Trizact belts, and this leather strop belt to finish (I use it suede side out). Don't leave the leather belt on the sander for storage or it'll stretch out and get saggy.
You have to be careful with the belt sander as it's easy to remove a lot of metal without intending to, and it's also easy to overheat the tips of thin knives. I dunk the blade in a jug of water between passes to prevent overheating. I might get a variable speed control something like this to reduce the rpm.
I don't have any more Eastman knives -- but I've often thought of ripping off their sharpening system to make a consumer gizmo.For sharpening I've got a 1x30 belt sander, similar to this. Lee Valley has nice 3M Trizact belts, and this leather strop belt to finish (I use it suede side out). Don't leave the leather belt on the sander for storage or it'll stretch out and get saggy.
You have to be careful with the belt sander as it's easy to remove a lot of metal without intending to, and it's also easy to overheat the tips of thin knives. I dunk the blade in a jug of water between passes to prevent overheating. I might get a variable speed control something like this to reduce the rpm.
I'ma gonna have to drink some beers to understand what you wrote?? Nice knife though.Rainnea sgian dubh. Culloden bog oak, cairngorm quartz.
Drop by for a surgical edge.
Buddy said the same thing. Now he wants one.I won't have my hopes up.
The base of certain coffee mugs and plates are excellent for sharpening knives. Not the Corelle type, but those with the "clayish" (if that's a word?) type finish. Running the blade by hand the same way as you'd use on a leather, works like a charm.Effing ballers in this thread....here I am using this thing (similar) as a pleb...
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Handmade Canadian knife made in Nova Scotia.
Knife skills and care are sorely lacking. When my inlaws are over I need to constantly pull good knives out of the dishwasher.Best friend around the corner used to live about 5kms from tbe Grohmann pictou factory and bought a full set of those knives , all sizes and the steak knives .
He looses his mind when his girlfriend scrapes them sideways on the cutting board
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