The first $100 oil change. | Page 4 | GTAMotorcycle.com

The first $100 oil change.

Forum Sponsor
I feel like I'm lost in the woods. I'd run crappy tire NuGold in everything if you could get it for $3 a litre still.
 
timtune said:
I feel like I'm lost in the woods. I'd run crappy tire NuGold in everything if you could get it for $3 a litre still.
Click to expand...

Not wet clutch friendly. Also not a particularly high quality oil. I'm certainly no evangelist of insanely priced boutique oils, but in small engines it is one of those things where a quality oil is cheaper than a rebuild down the road because of a cheap oil that lost its protection abilities in difficult conditions.

A beater car? Hell yeah, Nugold or the cheapest Walmart / no name **** you can find.
 
Oil changes
*5000km
*8991km
*14580km
*19550km October 2019 + Filter
*23581km may 6th 2020 + Filter
*28650km August 30th 2020 + Filter
*33251km March 3rd 2021+ filter
*39300km July 5th 2021 + filter
*44900km Sept 27th 2021
*53582 May 30th 2022 + filter
*58856 July 21st 2022+ filter
*63842 August 31st 2022 + filter
*67850 Dec 22nd 2022 + filter
*73250 June 27th 2023 + filter
*78966 Sept 19th 2023 + filter
*83446km February 9th 2024 + filter

All Rotella T6. I think I've spent $1000 on oil by now

Sent from my SM-S918B using Tapatalk
 
Max527 said:
I think I've spent $1000 on oil by now
emoji1787.png
Click to expand...

I sometimes go back through the last 30 years in my mind and wonder "where the heck did a lot of our money go", and then I look at these sorts of things (among many, many other things that all add up), and be all like...."Hmmmm, yeah, stop thinking about this.....you could have retired by now" 😆.
 
PrivatePilot said:
Also not a particularly high quality oil.
Click to expand...
Why do you say that?
IIRC Nu-gold oil was made by Redline,then by Wakefield.
Nothing wrong with that.
The "NEW" crappy tire oil is from Irving.
Nothing wrong with that.

In 50+ years of screwing around with IC motors, I have NEVER seen an oil failure attributed to the "quality" of the oil. I've seen lots of dead engines from the WRONG oil (like Rotella), too much or too little oil, dirty oil... never have I ever seen "bad oil" fry a motor.
If you run the oil your motor was designed for, you're golden. And Rotella is NOT spec for ANY motorcycle ever made. Jaso MA or MA2 does NOT mean it was designed for a motorcycle.
 
Mileage based viscosity breakdown in a demanding small engine environment with extended change intervals is the main concern I'd have with bargain basement conventional / Dino oils.

If you're someone who changes your oil every 3000km, or doesn't ride 1500+km days, that's probably not a big deal vs someone like me who runs to the 7000-8000km changes as per the owners manual, runs hot hard and fast sometimes, and puts a lot of miles on engines that I'd like to not have to rebuild every 100,000km because viscosity breakdown caused tolerance issues.
 
Query; I have probably 3 seasons old oil in my wifes ninja 300 (barely ridden during that time). As i know oil breaks down overtime would it be more prudent to not run the motor to heat it up prior to removal?
 
Evoex said:
Query; I have probably 3 seasons old oil in my wifes ninja 300 (barely ridden during that time). As i know oil breaks down overtime would it be more prudent to not run the motor to heat it up prior to removal?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't be too concerned. I would probably crack the drain plug to see if I was getting water or oil. If I got oil, I would snug the plug and run it to warm it up. That way the old oil picks up whatever schmoo/water exists in the engine. Then change the oil. If I got a ton of water (unlikely), I would probably dump and do a sacrificial oil change with cheap oil to clean out the engine.
 
Evoex said:
Query; I have probably 3 seasons old oil in my wifes ninja 300 (barely ridden during that time). As i know oil breaks down overtime would it be more prudent to not run the motor to heat it up prior to removal?
Click to expand...
I would just drain it cold, all the oil is in the oil pan now anyway. Just let it drain for a while to get the last 1% out
 
Liquimoly has two products that they claim will clean flush the motor (at around $25 perbottle), Crappy Tire has a like product "Kleenflo" at around $10.
You may wish to try those (I had, and the old oil flows out easier and yes, the motor ran without missing a beat when I later filled in fresh oil).
 
Evoex said:
Query; I have probably 3 seasons old oil in my wifes ninja 300 (barely ridden during that time). As i know oil breaks down overtime would it be more prudent to not run the motor to heat it up prior to removal?
Click to expand...
I have never seen a best before date on a bottle of oil.
It degrades with use not age.
I am sure you are safe jut running the engine at low speed to warm it up before dumping it.
I have seen engines started with 40 year old oil in them and run fine although I would not do that.
 
guzzirider said:
I have never seen a best before date on a bottle of oil.
It degrades with use not age.
I am sure you are safe jut running the engine at low speed to warm it up before dumping it.
I have seen engines started with 40 year old oil in them and run fine although I would not do that.
Click to expand...
From an engineer at Wakefield Canada (Castrol). Oil does not go bad with age. Period.
 
AllistonGT said:
From an engineer at Wakefield Canada (Castrol). Oil does not go bad with age. Period.
Click to expand...
I wouldnt expect oil to go bad in a sealed container. In an engine that had been run and was stored in a non climate controlled location being exposed to changing air and moisture absorption, I expect some acids and water that may behave poorly over a long time.
 
GreyGhost said:
I wouldnt expect oil to go bad in a sealed container. In an engine that had been run and was stored in a non climate controlled location being exposed to changing air and moisture absorption, I expect some acids and water that may behave poorly over a long time.
Click to expand...
Agreed
 
Ever heard the saying oil and water don't mix?
 
PrivatePilot said:
Doing some preemptive work for the upcoming season on the new ride today - also drawing out an oil sample to send to Blackstone just to get some insight.

Holy hell Rotella T6 is getting expensive. Yeah, I'm using the good stuff all around (full syn and a Mobil 1 filter, the only other filter aside from Wix I'll use), but wow.

I'm wondering how much a *dealer* is charging for a full synthetic oil change with a high end filter now.

View attachment 65779
Click to expand...
I just paid $66.99 for a 4L jug of i-PONE 10.4 full synthetic at Royal Distributing during their no tax/tent sale. When the total came up my wife asked how much was that! At least there was no tax. I bought a Mobil1 filter a few weeks ago at a Walmart in Orlando. It was US$12, so with exchange ~#18CDN. A little better total than your price, but yeah, a lot more expensive than just a couple of years ago.
 
Picked up a few jugs of T6 at Wallymart in the USA. Fun fact: the jugs are 5L at home, only 3.78L in the USA.

I did the math and on a per litre basis it’s still cheaper however - $50 USD all in for 2 jugs tax in ($68 cad for 7.5L) so $9cad/L. Even buying on Amazon at $67 after tax for 5L it’s $13/L.
Forum Sponsor
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom