Sprocket and Chain Questions

JonnyWyshbone

JonnyWyshbone

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Im doing a chain and sprocket change on my 2007 zzr600. The service manual says the nuts holding the rear sprocket nuts should be 10mm, but mine are 14mm and everythings stock:confused: I want to buy different color sprocket nuts, but so far I havent found anyone selling them in 14mm, can I use any kind of locking nut on the sprocket or does it have to be a "sprocket nut"? For the chain. I got a DID chain that says the sag limit is 20-25 mm or whatever I dont have it in front of me, but my service manual wants chain sag within 35-40mm, which do I go by? As of now I have it set within the DID specs but I wanted some feedback to see if this is correct, Thanks :)
 
You are confusing the thread size with the hex size.

The thread size is M10x... (I don't recall what the pitch is, it is either 1.25mm or 1.5mm) (Edit: Are you sure it is M10? Most sprocket-to-carrier studs are M8x1.25)

Coloured fasteners are usually anodized aluminum. Aluminum fasteners are not suitable in structural applications. If that sprocket comes loose while you are riding (because the aluminum fasteners cannot be adequately torqued to hold the sprocket securely) you are in a whole lot of trouble. Don't go down that road. Use the correct STEEL fasteners in this application.
 
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Also, regarding the chain slack, follow the bike manufacturer's instructions. They know the suspension geometry of the bike that the chain is being installed on. The chain manufacturer cannot possibly know that.
 
Awesome, thanks Brian I put the steel nuts on already so I can leave that bit as is:) Another question if u could help me, I got 29900 on the odo, I went for a boot yesterday to see how the new chain and sprocket felt, I noticed at a red light that my rpms were bouncing just below a grand at idle(i believe it should be 1300). I tried adjusting the idle screw but I found that I could not get the idle smooth at all. Im not a mechanic, but Im not afraid to take my bike apart and learn either, but I wasnt sure where I should start, any thoughts?

Gatekeeper good link man thanks, are titanium nuts stronger that the steel ones?
 
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Stick with the steel nuts. They work, finding out that your shiny (slightly lighter) parts don't work properly by having the wheel come off just isn't worth it. If you are really bored and want coloured nuts, just paint the ones you have (and repaint each time you mess them up with a wrench).
 
GreyGhost said:
Stick with the steel nuts. They work, finding out that your shiny (slightly lighter) parts don't work properly by having the wheel come off just isn't worth it. If you are really bored and want coloured nuts, just paint the ones you have (and repaint each time you mess them up with a wrench).
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Good point. Im gonna stick with the original nuts, but my other issue, does anyone have any troubleshooting advice? Sorry if I should have started a fresh thread.
 
JonnyWyshbone said:
Good point. Im gonna stick with the original nuts, but my other issue, does anyone have any troubleshooting advice? Sorry if I should have started a fresh thread.
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A low or hunting idle can be caused by a lot of things. First off it the idle low but smooth and rolling up and down? If so then I would guess (internet diagnosis) that it isn't a misfire. If it isn't a misfire then I'll make the assumption that it's not ignition related.

IIRC the ZZR is carbureted and a rolling or hunting idle is usually a symptom of a lean mixture at idle. When was the last time the carbs were cleaned? How was the bike stored over the winter was fuel stabiliser used?
 
sircastic said:
A low or hunting idle can be caused by a lot of things. First off it the idle low but smooth and rolling up and down? If so then I would guess (internet diagnosis) that it isn't a misfire. If it isn't a misfire then I'll make the assumption that it's not ignition related.

IIRC the ZZR is carbureted and a rolling or hunting idle is usually a symptom of a lean mixture at idle. When was the last time the carbs were cleaned? How was the bike stored over the winter was fuel stabiliser used?
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It bounces from lets say if I can get it to the 1300 it flutters between there and 1500. I just took it for a quick boot around the block without earplugs so I could better hear the issues. At speed everything seems normal to me, but once I stop for red light or traffic the rpms get wobbily again and Im there quickly trying to mess wit the idle screw. Ive had the bike for three years and the carbs have not been cleaned since Ive had it. I guess that would be my next move? I store the bike indoors with stabilizer in the tank, this winter past tho I think I may have gotten the mix wrong cuz my bike was really acting goofy until I burned thru that winter tank. Hey Ive heard that carbs can be dropped in a solution of pine sol and water for a good clean, but what parts do I have to remove before placing in the pine sol? What is the mixture to water and how long do they need to be submerged? Sorry I got tons of questions but now u knowledgable buggers got me going, lol :)
 
Rough idle on a carb engine usually means the idle mixture screws and slow jets need attention. I wouldn't bother with the Pine Sol. If you have the carbs off the bike (which you are going to have to do anyway), you might as well just take off the float bowl screws (4 on each carb) and take out the slow jet itself out of each carb, and inspect and clean it properly (or replace it, if it's too hard to clean). Screw each idle mixture screw in while counting the number of turns until it GENTLY seats, then screw them all the way out and remove them (take note of the little bits - spring, washer, etc) then blow out the passages with a suitable solvent and then with compressed air.

Regarding the poor running after winter storage, most gasoline these days contains ethanol, and it goes bad faster than ever before. The old advice of storing over the winter with the fuel tank filled (and using fuel stabilizer) doesn't work as well for me, as storing the bike with the fuel tank as close to completely empty and dry as possible and sealed.
 
Ok Im sold, Im gonna give this a try, does anyone have a good DIY carb vid i could put on the laptop while I do this? Just pulled the tank and fairings off I'll get the real party started tommorow
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Removing the carbs is really easy on that bike. You're almost there. Loosen the clamps for the airbox boots, unplug hoses to airbox, remove airbox (note how the ram air ducts are connected while doing this). Loosen the clamps between cylinder head and carbs, pull carb set up at one end to release them from the boots. Note how the choke cable and throttle cables are routed prior to removing them. Disconnect choke cable, disconnect throttle cables by first releasing the locknut and removing cable end from holder and then slip the cable out. Disconnect the vent hoses that lead to the ram-air (again, note how they are routed before disconnecting them). Sounds like a lot but really it is only about 5 minutes of work.

Now you have the carb set on your bench. Drain the fuel out of each float bowl drain screw into a suitable container (saves getting gas all over your hands and making a mess later). Re-snug the drain screw so that you don't forget to do it later. Work on one carb at a time. Remove 4 screws for float bowl - this is the 4 screws towards the back of the bike when viewed as the carbs would be sitting on the bike, not the ones towards the front (those are for the vacuum diaphragm). Take the float bowl off. Now you can see the jets and the float mechanism. Don't touch the float mechanism nor the needle valve at the moment. There are 3 jets that pull fuel into the carb - the main jet is the big one on the bottom (don't touch), the slow (pilot) jet is recessed up inside a little passageway but has a slot in it for unscrewing it (this is the one that needs attention), the choke jet is generally not removable so don't try.

The slow jet has a very small opening that is easy to get clogged. You should be able to see through the jet and it should be a clean hole, although a very small one. If it looks dirty ... it is.
 
Wicked, thanks for the thorough instructions, I'm just getting up, dropped the wife at the GO, and somehow convinced her that this has to be done(well it really does, im just surprised I could convince her something on the bike needed to be done, lol) so I got nothing but time now, I'll update once I get through the stuff Brian listed. Would a dynojet kit be worth it for my bike? What are the advantages? Hey is there a way to setup my phone with tapatalk so that I get notified when someone post in a thread I made or a thread commented on? I just hate when I wait for a reply and nothing comes, as soon as I leave my computer, someone comments and I don't see it till next day :)
 
Sorry just another question, while all this stuff is off the engine, should I be checkin the valve clearances? The only thing I'm missing to do this is a shim kit.
 
At 30,000km I would say you should check. You may only need a few schims but you definatly should replace the valve cover gasket. You need a manual and a set of feeler gauges to be able to know the correct measurements. It's easy to get the measurements but if you remove the cams and don't get them back in properly you can do serious damage to your motor. Find an online manual, read what it takes then decide if your comfortable doing it.
 
I got the manual, the only things I'm missing and presently on a mission to get us the feeler guages(heading to RD to p/u after I find out who the babies daddys are, lol) and a shim kit, and RD says theyll have my jet kit on friday. I know I probably won't use alot of the shim kit but I can order it sent to my crib and time is of no importance right now. Carbs are off the bike now, I drained the bowls into a jerry can but haven't removed them yet, so far so good......
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edit: Snow City just called me back to say they could have my jet kit for tomm!! 98 bucks before tax pretty much inline with anything off the net so I'm happy :)
 
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Check what schims you have in there after you take your measurements and you may be able to swap a few around to get you the right clearances and only have to buy a couple instead of a whole box that may not have enough of the ones you need. Don't rely on the numbers printed on them either, measure the actual thickness.
 
dricked said:
Check what schims you have in there after you take your measurements and you may be able to swap a few around to get you the right clearances and only have to buy a couple instead of a whole box that may not have enough of the ones you need. Don't rely on the numbers printed on them either, measure the actual thickness.
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Ok cool I will. Holy crap is it ever hot out there tho. Stripped two phillips screws taking off float covers, no biggie as the heads got enuff on em for me to get a grip on to remove it the hard way. Gonna take a break and head over to crappy or home depot see if i can find a better replacement for all the screws cuz I hate those effin phillips!
 
get some stainless steel allen head cap scres, and replace them all with those, Canadian Tire will have them in black not stainless, and they are where the home hardware stuff is, not the automotive section, look for metric nuts and bolts....

if you have a Brafasco nearby go see them, they will have the stainless steel ones.

I needed these, yours might be the same, but measure and check

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[TR]
[TD]Bowl[/TD]
[TD]M5X16[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]16[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]M5 lock washer[/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]16[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
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JonnyWyshbone said:
Ok cool I will. Holy crap is it ever hot out there tho. Stripped two phillips screws taking off float covers, no biggie as the heads got enuff on em for me to get a grip on to remove it the hard way. Gonna take a break and head over to crappy or home depot see if i can find a better replacement for all the screws cuz I hate those effin phillips!
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