Small trailers? | Page 11 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Small trailers?

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GreyGhost said:
That's the theoretical reason but when both chains start from the same point, the odds that the cradle works are astronomically low. I still cross them as it doesn't hurt but I hold little faith they will catch the tongue.

The safety "chains" I had on the tornado was a few pieces of rope that I would tie to the car. Eeek. I didn't really like it but it didn't move all that often so I never bothered making a better system.
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You are right.
The theory sounds good and just makes you look like a professional trailer operator.

However, in order for the theory to work in practice, the chains need to be the proper length or else you are pretty much in the same boar as if they were not crossed.
Here is a good explanation.

 
oioioi said:
You are right.
The theory sounds good and just makes you look like a professional trailer operator.

However, in order for the theory to work in practice, the chains need to be the proper length or else you are pretty much in the same boar as if they were not crossed.
Here is a good explanation.

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His chains also start ~6" apart. On many small trailers they start in the same location (over a bolt) so the basket is more like a rod than a net.
 
Pegassus said:
Plus probably another $20 on top of that for whatever reason they can think of when you return it. You can buy one in Kijiji for $300 (used) and use it for life.
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Rented trailers from Uhual several times. Never had and erroneous charges. In fact, it has always been smooth.
 
GreyGhost said:
That's the theoretical reason but when both chains start from the same point, the odds that the cradle works are astronomically low. I still cross them as it doesn't hurt but I hold little faith they will catch the tongue.

The safety "chains" I had on the tornado was a few pieces of rope that I would tie to the car. Eeek. I didn't really like it but it didn't move all that often so I never bothered making a better system.
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I agree. The chains in the video were poorly located, such that even if it dropped, it would probably miss the cradle. He needs the attachment point on the trailer to be further back, so that moves the crossover point to a location where the tongue can't miss.

Edit. hadn't seen the other comments and video before I posted.
 
mimico_polak said:
Am I doing this right?
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I personally don't trust the open 'J' hooks on the straps, but that's just me. If the bike's suspension compresses when going over a big bump, the straps can get loose for a moment and the open hook can unhook itself. You can crank down the straps to compress the suspension enough that it likely won't move, but I prefer to just secure the hook ends.

Some straps come with little wire spring retainers on the J hooks, or in a pinch you can just use tape to close the open end of the hook. I've also purchased big load-rated carabiners to use in place of the J-hooks. It's hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like the anchor points on the trailer are just small holes and are probably only big enough for either hooks or carabiners. If you have a bigger D-ring on the trailer as anchor points, you can loop the loose end of the strap through the D-ring, and then through the closed eye of the J hook, effectively making a slipknot that can't come loose if the strap slackens momentarily.

I usually also shorten the straps a bit so that there isn't so much excess, and secure the excess with either little velcro cable ties, or masking tape, to keep them from flapping around. It's just annoying if the loose end damages your bike's paint, but I think it would be downright unpleasant if the loose end got wrapped around the trailer axle.
 
Ash said:
but I think it would be downright unpleasant if the loose end got wrapped around the trailer axle.
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From experience it isnt ideal but I doubt you would notice. Wheel moving at 100 km/h wrt strap, huge dynamic load, pop. Shorter strap.
 
GreyGhost said:
From experience it isnt ideal but I doubt you would notice. Wheel moving at 100 km/h wrt strap, huge dynamic load, pop. Shorter strap.
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I guess that's one way to shorten them to the appropriate length. Lol
 
Thanks guys. With the weather the way it’s looking the bike is staying in the garage this weekend.

Will work on the strapping to make it more secure and possibly shorten them down with some scissors and a lighter.
 
@timtune I’m considering shortening the cabling as it appears to be excessive and way longer for this trailer than required. I didn’t check but maybe it’s not from the original trailer and will need adjustments. Don’t think it’a too much effort as long as the lights aren’t soldered in.
 
you could shorten it. I usually coil the excess and tape it up some where. I'm lazy.
 
JZ67 said:
Rented trailers from Uhual several times. Never had and erroneous charges. In fact, it has always been smooth.
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well pick a trailer and no thanks to all. first page is the trailer follows by 20+ pages of addons ,, insur,stranded,etc
clearly they are making money from those what if situation.
 
rakkaus said:
well pick a trailer and no thanks to all. first page is the trailer follows by 20+ pages of addons ,, insur,stranded,etc
clearly they are making money from those what if situation.
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Last time I tried to rent a trailer, their site didn’t let me get past a page if I didn’t choose some options. Frustrating as **** so I just called them and rented it over the phone.
 
Robbo said:
Maybe a tie at the front wheel to keep it snug? One extra bit of insurance.


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I redid to wrap the excess straps around the front wheel from both sides.
 
rakkaus said:
what is the cost to raise them???
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Myself and 3 neighbours got estimates from $1600 - $4000.
I need driveway (fits 4 cars) +1 section of sidewalk and a huge crack on my patio in the backyard. Mine is $1700, including referral discount. (none of the neighbours knew this service existed).
 
Gary said:
Myself and 3 neighbours got estimates from $1600 - $4000.
I need driveway (fits 4 cars) +1 section of sidewalk and a huge crack on my patio in the backyard. Mine is $1700, including referral discount. (none of the neighbours knew this service existed).
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And they're using grout or foam?
 
mimico_polak said:
Am I doing this right?
View attachment 48592
View attachment 48593
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As with any other trailer, you don't want to over-compress the suspension, but especially so with these because they use the bike's suspension since they don't have their own. I always tie the front wheel down, then compress the forks about half as much as I would with a suspended trailer. I do have the Condor wheel chock, so the tie downs aren't as critical. But I did buy some quick links to add to or replace the hooks so they'll never pop out. I've had one of the rears come off once when I didn't crank down enough on a dirt bike.
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