Slipper Clutch - Downshifting technique

"Once I've dropped the 3 gears then I fully release while trail braking"
When do you starting applying the brakes?
If - When do you blip?
 
justride said:
"Once I've dropped the 3 gears then I fully release while trail braking"
When do you starting applying the brakes?
If - When do you blip?
Click to expand...
I'm on the brakes right when I start downshifting, both levers are in action. There is no blipping being done. By the time I let the clutch out in 3rd I'm usually at a 3rd gear speed and the slipper keeps it from locking and hopping if I'm not.
 
I start braking first, and do downshifts during the braking period (but bear in mind that the time between starting braking, and starting downshifting, could be a fraction of a second). Starting the braking first is in the interest of not over-revving the engine following the downshift. But ... Having watched (and cringed) during track days, perhaps it is necessary to point out a couple of things that might not be otherwise obvious.

If you are braking HARD enough, then the time that it takes to complete the downshifts is going to (almost) automatically keep the engine in the right RPM range without over-revving, because you are knocking off enough speed during each downshift to be in the appropriate speed range for the next lower gear anyhow, as you complete each downshift. Read Amazon's post again. She may be starting the downshifting action together with starting the braking action ... but she is braking hard, and by the time the downshift is completed, speed has been knocked off. I've heard her ride. She's not killing her engine (any more than roadracing inherently does, LOL)

Also, if you are braking HARD enough, there is not much weight on the rear wheel. My bike does not have a slipper clutch. It does, however, slide the rear tire under braking if I get a downshift a bit wrong.

From watching track days ... If you are rolling off the throttle 200 metres too early for the corner and then downshifting (and spiking engine revs way into redline, making me cringe) and only then braking gently ... you are doing it wrong. Brake later. Brake harder. Do the downshifts together with braking, spaced out during the braking period, not before you even start applying brakes the way I've seen some track-day riders do.

Remember, a slipper clutch only cushions downshifts - it does not prevent downshift-overrevving from mechanically back-driving the engine because you downshifted into an inappropriate gear for your current road speed.
 
From watching track days ... If you are rolling off the throttle 200 metres too early for the corner and then downshifting (and spiking engine revs way into redline, making me cringe) and only then braking gently ... you are doing it wrong.

That's me. At Grand Bend coming down the longest straight (reverse layout) going into a "big" right. I would engine brake with blip, and engine brake with blip etc. and the last engine brake with blip and then apply the brakes and trail brake into the corner. The rpm would red line somethings on the last engine brake with blip.

I would also try to engine brake with blip while braking all at the same when going down couple of gears. But read/saw somewhere, that when applying the brake and blipping the brakes are "pulsating"
 
Well then. You now know what you need to work on, and it explains the original question.

You need to be able to work the throttle without it affecting the brake. That's on you to sort out.
 
justride said:
I would also try to engine brake with blip while braking all at the same when going down couple of gears. But read/saw somewhere, that when applying the brake and blipping the brakes are "pulsating"
Click to expand...

If you're not already doing so: one or two-finger pulls on the brake helps with blipping, because you're able to blip when the rest of your fingers are on the throttle. More difficult to blip if you're pulling the brake lever in with four fingers, cause no fingers are around the throttle.
 
justride said:
From watching track days ... If you are rolling off the throttle 200 metres too early for the corner and then downshifting (and spiking engine revs way into redline, making me cringe) and only then braking gently ... you are doing it wrong.

That's me. At Grand Bend coming down the longest straight (reverse layout) going into a "big" right. I would engine brake with blip, and engine brake with blip etc. and the last engine brake with blip and then apply the brakes and trail brake into the corner. The rpm would red line somethings on the last engine brake with blip.

I would also try to engine brake with blip while braking all at the same when going down couple of gears. But read/saw somewhere, that when applying the brake and blipping the brakes are "pulsating"
Click to expand...
Oh my, your poor engine. If you cant blip and brake at the same time, then forget about blipping for now. And work on braking and down shift later when the rpms are much lower, release the clutch slowly to not have rear wheel hop. eventually blipping should come. Or get a fancy bike with auto blipper.
 
The only person who has said the right answer in this entire thread is Jim.

If you have a properly set up slipper. Bang down the gears. Leave the throttle alone. The slipper will do the work.

Thats the entire point of it. If you're blipping with a slipper you're not using the tool for the right purpose.
 
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