Rust proofing a new car?

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That article seems to think that having a car rust proofed is just spraying oil under it when most plans spray into door panels and rockers where rust forms.

I had bad rust on my first new dealer car after 3 years and only 80k on the car dealers don't even try to help out there is always a loophole where they shrug you off. And yea i even had purchased dealer rust proofing!! read the fine print they have lots of loopholes in those. I get all my cars done at 3rd party and rust is kept at a minimum now. My 02 car has zero rust, not many 2002 focus's can claim that most have the rockers rotted out bad. So it does work.

For new cars I like the non drip sticky stuff, and if its an older car I've bought used I opt for the drippy stuff to coat and soak in.
 
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If they want to spray the hard shell rust proof thing, don't do it. When it chips, water will go underneath the hard shell and create rust there. Plus what everybody told you, a car with less than 5 year will have no rust but under the car (sometime). Just shoot it with oil every year if you plan to keep your car 10+year. Mine has 8 year, one rust spot under the car, one around the trunk but you need to stick your eye on it to see it. Rust warranty from the dealer is ******** most of the time since you need to be able to put your finger through the hole to get it fixed.

Anyway, it's your money, but if you don't keep your car until they die, you are wasting money.

I personally use the NAPA 5000 rust proof oil and I do it myself. The oil from rust check is overpriced and it destroys your driveway, plus oil dripping from your car is apparently illegal but I didn't check if it's true.
 
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Sorry I don't have any science to back it, but here's what makes sense to me based on everything I've heard and done;

Best to worst rusproofing options;

1- Annual spray, inside panels and underneath. Krown seems to have the best reputation
2- No rustproffing, keep it factory stock.
3- Dealer applied lifetime undercoating. Can do more harm than good.
4- Electronic rust protection systems - pure scam.
 
Anything from a dealer is marked up to the extent that if you buy a complete package from them (rust proofing, fabric protectors, and other stuff), they make more money on the aftermarket stuff than they make on the sale of the car. The same thinking applies to aftermarket warranties on top of what the manufacturer offers. Warranties are a form of betting and insurance companies (like the casinos) always win.

If you watch their tactics, salespeople and the manage will usually try to force it on you, playing on your desire to protect and preserve the new car. It is just manipulation to extract money from the buyer. And if you have someone with you such as a spouse, they will try to get that person to side with them. They are very manipulative and they know all the tricks. This is what they do to make money.

Most new cars have excellent protection from corrosion. The only type of treatment that I would consider would be something along the lines of a rust check or Krown. These sprays can displace water inside inner compartments and they offer some protection for wiring harnesses and electrical connectors. But even then, it is a marginal benefit. If you plan to keep the car for 10 years or more, it might be worthwhile. Otherwise, it is not necessary in my opinion.

SunnY S said:
Whats the general consensus on this?

Is it worth rustproofing new cars anymore?

Dealer wants $750, does a one time application and guarantees it for 10 years.

Krown/Rust Check wants $109 or so, but has to be applied every year.


The owners manual says additional rust proofing is not needed. Dealer says we live in a salt area, so its needed.


Who's right?
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In krown lakeshore i trust

If your car is BATHING in oil... i would be surprised to see it rust.

I have the electronic thing...came with the car, and i rust proof at krown.

The only rust i may have are from 1 chip on the roof, one chip cause by someone closing the rear door with the belt still out..ugh
and i always end up cleaning it up when i detail my car, therefore it hasnt grown any bigger in about 3 years
 
LePhillou said:
The only rust i may have are from 1 chip on the roof, one chip cause by someone closing the rear door with the belt still out..ugh
and[n] i always end up cleaning it up when i detail my car[/b], therefore it hasnt grown any bigger in about 3 years
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Really? Why the hell wouldn't you grab some touch up paint and be done with it?
 
Who ever you choose to rust proof just make sure they are gold at what they do. I know something like getting your car oiled should be a simple thing but I made the mistake of getting a slightly cheaper guy to do my car which was rust free at the time. Next year it was rusted along the rockers and on the trunk. The guy clogged all the drain holes in the car and it held water. You could hear the water slooshing around in the trunk lid. I went back to complain and the guy had closed shop and was gone.

This is my signature
 
Anyone use KROWN @ lakeshore ??
 
I hear Spring is the best tie to apply rust proofing such as Krown.

Can someone knowledgeable comment on the best time to apply.
 
PSY said:
I hear Spring is the best tie to apply rust proofing such as Krown.

Can someone knowledgeable comment on the best time to apply.
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The best time to apply it is prior to any rust. You want the car clean prior to application is the only requirement, caked on mud on the underside and in the wheel wells doesn't help it needs to be able to soak into the crevices of the body.

If the vehicle hasn't been treated before then just prior to winter would be best rather than waiting until spring, the damage can already be done at that point. If it's been treated a couple times then there's enough of a base that it really doesn't matter.
 
PSY said:
I hear Spring is the best tie to apply rust proofing such as Krown.

Can someone knowledgeable comment on the best time to apply.
Click to expand...

IMO it's best to do it before winter. The stuff gradually washes off with every wash so you want the protection to last through the winter at least. Then even if it's washed off by the spring, at least you don't have the salt, grit, and condensation problems to contend with over the summer. It's winter that's the killer.
 
fastar1 said:
IMO it's best to do it before winter. The stuff gradually washes off with every wash so you want the protection to last through the winter at least. Then even if it's washed off by the spring, at least you don't have the salt, grit, and condensation problems to contend with over the summer. It's winter that's the killer.
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+1

Sent from my phone using my paws
 
I have noticed our weather is trending towards warmer with less precipitation. I think our winter will be just like last year. Warmer with very little snow. This is good for our cars.

Funny how Canada Goose jackets sales go up as the weather is trending towards warmer winters.
 
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