Rust proofing a new car?

I had an 88 Cavalier years a ago, it was Krowned once in the early 90's and when i finally got rid of it 6 years ago it had no rust. My grandmother had an 86 CRX with the same story.

Krown is the best
 
daisoman said:
Buy a Benz. 5 years perforation warranty then sell it
Click to expand...

5 years is the lowest all manufacturers provide on perforation ... BMW is at 12. Perforation means the car has a rusted hole in it, it can / will still rust.

The best rust protection you can get for a vehicle is either the Krown or Rust Check products. They are very similar products that are sprayed on as a mist and liquid. They creep into body seams that the wax or rubber products can't get to. Some of the really nice things about these products is that they also lubricate mechanisms (door latches, etc) and can also reduce body squeaks and groans.

If you request it they can be applied without drilling holes but that will invalidate warranty with the product. In my experience (previous Krown franchise) the warranty isn't necessary if it's applied each year anyway.
 
Had my 2005 Acura RSX sprayed at krown every year. Zero rust anywhere, when ever i would go in for a oil change they would always comment on how good the underside of my car looked(just sold in august). Plus if you go to krown within 6 months of buying your car and go back every year they warranty your car against rust from the windows down. Ill be taking my Subaru in at the end of the month, dealer offered their spray for 400 bucks for one spray but i had a hard time believing that would last for ten years.
 
I had a new 1988 Sunbird rustproofed at the dealer, doors rusted out bad, and the underside wasn't looking too great when I retired it 10 years later.

Fast forward 2001, new Sunfire, decided to do nothing. At 220,000 km it's still pretty clean, very little surface rust happening in a couple nooks that catch water.

Summary: I'm not convinced rust proofing does much on a modern car, if it traps water anywhere, it will do more harm than good.
 
Macs said:
I got the elecronic rust protection unit from the dealer. Cost around $1100 one time, checkups are free with regular service.
Click to expand...
These things are junk! I have one on my truck, compare it to my car that's been undercoated every year and there's a big difference, one has rust one doesn't.
 
If your buying a new car, deal with them, get them to throw it in, or at least part of the cost. I bought a new Outback and they paid half the price for rust proofing which was $750. Rust is a cancer, anything I can do to prevent it, I want to.
 
I work on my car most of the time and i hate it when things are seized together. The body might be galvanized but subframes, control arms & brake pads may not. I usually do every 2 yrs. My 328i is 12 yrs old and no rust.

Between yrs you can apply used motor oil. They have good anti rust properties

Sent from my phone using my paws
 
The best rust proofing is the one you apply once a year oil sprayed, pain in the *** ya. The car is rustproofed at the factory...the spray on crap from the $tealer i$ expen$ive...zeibart does a better job and is cheaper I believe if you wanna go that way.
 
Get it done at the dealer. Once the warranty for the rust is up then Krown it every year. That's what I'm doing on my 2012 Ram.

I see it all the time, 3 or 4 year old cars with rust. Yes cars are made with galvanized or zinc coated metal, they still rust. My 04 Canyon was beginning to rust when it was about 5 despite the fact I really looked after the thing. Had I undercoated it each year, that wouldn't have happened.

The dealer offered me the electric rust prevention and I gave him a definite no as it's a gimmick.
 
It really depends on a car.
Mazda3 and the Protege5 before it are quite horrible for example. One of the quickest to rust. Few years really.

Certain vehicles have known problem spots. Look them up online and pay extra attention.

Take off unnecessary moldings, stickers, vinyl, bras, plastic and rubber coverings (wheel well). All they do is trap moisture.

How it's stored is quite crucial as well, more important than rust proofing.

Remember to wash off the salt in winter, btw. Salt kills cars.

Electrical currents I'm skeptical about as well. $1,100 is a rip off. You can get the same thing for $500 from an independent shop, not a dealer.
I see 20-40 cars a day in the shop, many of them with the devices. Some have rust, some don't.

Proofing - a lot of coating compounds/mixes attract moisture, so do check what will they use exactly.
 
Last edited:
This whole thread is so anti-scientific it hurts.

So many anecdotes with no consideration for variables.

I took a quick google, but found nothing -- are there any independent studies that have been performed that limit the variables and do a proper study of which rust-proofing techniques work and which don't?

Because in the end, I don't really care if your 12 year old BMW that has never been rust-proofed and garaged all its life never rusted, or if your 4 year old mazda that has been rust-proofed rusted. Anecdotes are so statistically insignificant they are useless.

Correlation does not imply causation, so lets have some real data or this whole thread is useless.
 
Diesel said:
This whole thread is so anti-scientific it hurts.

So many anecdotes with no consideration for variables.

I took a quick google, but found nothing -- are there any independent studies that have been performed that limit the variables and do a proper study of which rust-proofing techniques work and which don't?

Because in the end, I don't really care if your 12 year old BMW that has never been rust-proofed and garaged all its life never rusted, or if your 4 year old mazda that has been rust-proofed rusted. Anecdotes are so statistically insignificant they are useless.

Correlation does not imply causation, so lets have some real data or this whole thread is useless.
Click to expand...
images
 
my shop is right next to rust check, i see cars from early 90s sprayed every year no rust!
factory oilspray is a joke, it traps moisture and makes it rust faster. you want an oil spray that will seap into all the spots behind the doors and spots a gun wont get into. In the years, I have also seen "factory sprayed cars" come in with lots of rust , THEY WILL ONLY WARRENTY RUST HOLES!!! not rust bubbles or spots.
i own a bodyshop and let me tell you , oil spray (krown or rust check) is the BEST money you can ever spend on a car.
and ....the rust modulars do NOTHING , i do rust repairs on 2 year old cars with the stupid little green 12v light flashing " protected" LOL

both Krown and rust check have lifetime warrenty on all cars sprayed every year for life!
 
we have been using krown rust every year ...

my dad's car is a 98 Lexus and only now after 14 yrs does it have a few just specs of surface rust on it ...nothing else
 
I put KROWN on the week after I bought my new car in 1999. The car has no rust on the body after 12 years.
 
SunnY S said:
Whats the general consensus on this?

Is it worth rustproofing new cars anymore?

Dealer wants $750, does a one time application and guarantees it for 10 years.

Krown/Rust Check wants $109 or so, but has to be applied every year.


The owners manual says additional rust proofing is not needed. Dealer says we live in a salt area, so its needed.


Who's right?
Click to expand...

Go with Krown or Rust Check and there are more reputable places out there, well I will tell you the dealers are a rip off as we rustproof for a big dodge dealer they pay us $239 and they resell it for $700+ to the customer, pay the $100+ a year and be happy with your vehicle.
 
yup them electronic devices are crap we sell accessories and were aproched to sell them our price was $69.99 per unit.....we declined to sell them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom