Quit our jobs, sold our home and everything in it, gone riding... | Page 74 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Quit our jobs, sold our home and everything in it, gone riding...

I don't know for sure, but I'm going to guess I'm carrying close to 150lbs and Neda is carrying 120lbs? I know the volume though, we had to ship it separately from the motorcycles from South America to Europe, it was 225L for the both of us!

I'm surprised the shipper didn't give a weight for the volume. Guess they just give a price for the costlier option.

My 2 50L side/top cases came in at ~25lb each, but the 70+L wanigan (kitchen) was close to 50lb.
 
Yeah, I think our requirements are a bit different than yours. We basically needed a replacement house! :iconbiggrin:

For small, maybe look into a bivy tent. It's basically a shell around your sleeping bag that keeps the rain and mosquitoes off your face. You won't be able to sit up in it or keep any gear inside the tent, but it'll be light and compact. I've seen some that roll up into the size of a water bottle and weigh less than 2 lbs.

I wasn't clear I think. By small, I meant yours. :) I don't do any backpacking so as long as it fits on the bike and is super durable (especially the bloody zippers) it works. I also like being able to fully stand up but that is tough as most 4 and under person tents are way less than 6ft tall.
 
Oh, hell! If size and weight isn't an issue for you, then you should be looking at the RedVerz Atacama. 6 feet 4 inches at its top and sleeps 3.

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Go to a marine store (chandlery), found at most large marinas, and buy the spray or brush on stuff for boat tops/canvas. Will do the trick.
 
Yup. Does a fine job on the seams of the canvas of my boat. Over time the seams start to leak so I spray them with the sealer. Like I said, it does the trick.. just fine. I use the spray version in a pump spray bottle.
 
I've been off this board for 5 years, but I just spent a couple of hours going through this post.

Its brilliant. Well done. And at least I found out what happened to Barna

Can I ask a question?

I have a 2013 R1200GS and I was hesitant to buy it because of all the complaints about the final drive. Have you had any issues with the rear hub on your trip?
 
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My favorite part of this thread lately has been all the times I get an e-mail with a thread update and I get all excited thinking I get more of what makes this story great, but it turns out it's just a bunch of people asking irrelevant questions that should be asked in private messages instead.
 
Have you had any issues with the rear hub on your trip?

OMG, I could write a book about all the problems with the rear hub. First problem I had was leaking seals. This was before the trip, so before 100,000 kms, not sure exactly when.

About 130,000kms in, I started developing some lateral play in the rear wheel. The shop took the final drive apart and told me that the crown bearing was wearing. They gave me the option of replacing it ($$$) or they said they it wasn't bad enough that they couldn't remachine it to save some money, so I went that route.

The next problem was around 185,000kms, I had to have most of the seals replaced again because once again I was weeping final drive oil all over the hub. And then just recently, around 200,000 kms I had another bearing wear down, this time it had to be replaced.

From what I read and experienced, the BMW final drive is a design problem and not related to wear or usage. You could baby the thing, ride it to Timmy's and back and have to replace a bearing within 20k, or you could beat the bike month-in and month-out over washboard gravel roads in the desert and only need to replace the seals every 50k...
 
OMG, I could write a book about all the problems with the rear hub. First problem I had was leaking seals. This was before the trip, so before 100,000 kms, not sure exactly when.

About 130,000kms in, I started developing some lateral play in the rear wheel. The shop took the final drive apart and told me that the crown bearing was wearing. They gave me the option of replacing it ($$$) or they said they it wasn't bad enough that they couldn't remachine it to save some money, so I went that route.

The next problem was around 185,000kms, I had to have most of the seals replaced again because once again I was weeping final drive oil all over the hub. And then just recently, around 200,000 kms I had another bearing wear down, this time it had to be replaced.

From what I read and experienced, the BMW final drive is a design problem and not related to wear or usage. You could baby the thing, ride it to Timmy's and back and have to replace a bearing within 20k, or you could beat the bike month-in and month-out over washboard gravel roads in the desert and only need to replace the seals every 50k...

Thanks Lightcycle. That's what I've heard. Its a hit or miss thing.

I have 45,000 on mine at the moment and nothing has failed yet. I'm expecting to have to do some maintenance sooner rather than later though.
 
OMG, I could write a book about all the problems with the rear hub. First problem I had was leaking seals. This was before the trip, so before 100,000 kms, not sure exactly when.

About 130,000kms in, I started developing some lateral play in the rear wheel. The shop took the final drive apart and told me that the crown bearing was wearing. They gave me the option of replacing it ($$$) or they said they it wasn't bad enough that they couldn't remachine it to save some money, so I went that route.

The next problem was around 185,000kms, I had to have most of the seals replaced again because once again I was weeping final drive oil all over the hub. And then just recently, around 200,000 kms I had another bearing wear down, this time it had to be replaced.

From what I read and experienced, the BMW final drive is a design problem and not related to wear or usage. You could baby the thing, ride it to Timmy's and back and have to replace a bearing within 20k, or you could beat the bike month-in and month-out over washboard gravel roads in the desert and only need to replace the seals every 50k...

Knowing what you know now about the bike(s), do you still choose the same ones? or would you go with something else?
 
Knowing what you know now about the bike(s), do you still choose the same ones? or would you go with something else?

I like our bikes. They've got problems, but almost all motorcycles develop problems given enough time and mileage. More so if they're Italian! :)

I think the frequency of problems we've had are quite low and not that severe given how long and how far we've ridden. Knock on wood. If I were to replace my R1200GS with another bike, it would probably be a 2007-2012 R1200GS because they did away with the electric-assist servo brakes (which stranded me in France a few years ago).

The new liquid cooled 12GSs scare me because of how computerized they are. That said, I got to test ride one for a whole weekend very recently and it's one sweet bike that I would definitely love to own but I wouldn't take it on a RTW trip.

Other bikes I'm interested in for a RTW trip but haven't tried yet are the Yamaha Super Tenere and the upcoming Honda Africa Twin. I'd be interested in test-riding a KTM 1190 Adventure but I wouldn't take one on a long trip. Most of the guys we meet on the road riding KTMs do more wrenching than riding. But they seem to like doing it and wear it as a badge of honour. I'd rather ride than wrench.

Neda likes her F650GS a lot. She tried the F800GS, too tall for her. She doesn't like the looks of the new F700GS and it's not that many changes from the bike she has now.
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/246.html

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Another rainy day ahead of us. This is not awesome at all. We're continuing our northwards march through the fjords.


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We ride by so much water from the fjords at sea level, to the lakes at the tops of the passes
where snow still lies unmelted even in the middle of summer


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The conditions are gross and I can't help imagine how beautiful it would look if it was sunny

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Neda tackling the serpentine mountain passes, up and over the fingers of land that reach out to the North Sea
 
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Rivulets of rain and meltwater create waterfalls, small and large, all around us

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We approach our first sightseeing spot of the day - Geirangerfjord!

The Geirangerfjord is another one of Norway's most visited tourist sights. People from all around the world come in to see a picture-perfect example of Norway's fjords: snow capped mountains and steep cliff walls leading into a harbour that can be seen from all the roads above. Then a slow descent through multiple switchbacks to finally hit the gift store at the quaint village at the bottom.

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Selfie overlooking Geirangerfjord

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Guess who we ran into at Geirangerfjord? Dan and Sara! I knew we'd see them again!

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Steep cliffs at Geirangerfjord
 
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Lunch at the town of Geiranger

There is a visitor centre in Geiranger right at the harbour of the fjord. Huge cruise ships come in and purge their bowels, dumping their load of tourists out into the town and then just as quickly swallow them up only to defecate them back out again at the next popular destination on the brochures.

Which brings us to lunch.

We are not allowed to eat our own food inside the visitor centre, so while the rich Norwegians order their $10 coffees and $20 pieces of pie, we break out the groceries which we've been lugging since Sweden and huddle outside in the cold and wet to prepare our budget lunch. We flaunt our yummy cucumber and mustard sandwiches through the glass at the Norwegians inside! It looks like our cheap Swedish supplies are running low and we're going to have to replenish them at a Norwegian grocery store soon. Now is a good time to apply for a bank loan.

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Each cruise ship carries 2000-3000 people. There must be tens of thousands of people coming in everyday on these cruise ships!

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Leaving Geirangerfjord on a staircase of roads, we can see the harbour from the other side

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Looks good from this side too!

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So dark, wet and gloomy. Gross.
 
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Just north of Geirangerfjord we take a ferry to get to Linge instead of going the long way around the harbour

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Hey this ferry's almost empty! And the sun is slowly peeking out from behind the clouds!

We're taking a lot of ferries to hop between all these fingers of land out in the western coast. It depends on the length, but on average we're paying about 50 krones per bike each ferry crossing, so about $8 CDN each and we're taking at least two ferries a day at the pace that we're going.

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At another town further north, we gas up and watch more tourists unloading

You know, for a country that made its fortunes in oil, gasoline prices are pretty high here. The price at the pumps is about $2.50 CDN a liter (I think that's $7.25 USD a gallon). Someone's pocketing some krones here... As we are draining our wallets at the pump, a cruise ship couple approaches us and starts a conversation. They recognized our Ontario license plates because they're from Canada as well! Funny, we are meeting the most Canadians in Norway.

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The visitor centre at Trollstigen

We are just crossing off all the tourist sites on the brochure today! Trollstigen is a picturesque mountain road, its steep switchbacks giving a great view of the valley below as you descend past the rushing waters of several large waterfalls. There are many mountain climbs in Norway over the fjords, but the Trollstigen is the most prettiest.

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The name Trollstigen means The Troll's Path in English

In Norwegian fairytales, trolls turn to stone in the sunlight and in the dark they spring to life to scare little children.
 
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