Princess Auto brake bleeder kit | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Princess Auto brake bleeder kit

FJRrider said:
As one person can bleed the brakes on a bike it isnt needed. If you want to get something fancy look into speed bleeders.
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There no way I can reach my left front caliper and front brake lever at the same time without being a contortionist so on a bike with a full fairing bleeding brakes is a two person job.

I've been using speed bleeders for about 15 years and they make it a very simple job for the 3 calipers + clutch I have to maintain. One thing not mentioned in posts is that you have to keep the master topped up with fluid as you bleed. Adding fluid with the speed bleeders is very easy, you just stop pumping the lever or pedal, top up and then continue.

I think the one scenario where a vacuum device would shine is where you've disassembled the system to replace hoses, pistons, seals etc... and the whole system is full of air. Pulling fluid through an empty system is probably quicker then pushing it via pumping the lever, although both will work.
 
ReSTored said:
There no way I can reach my left front caliper and front brake lever at the same time without being a contortionist so on a bike with a full fairing bleeding brakes is a two person job.
...
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If you push the fresh fluid in from the bottom you don't even need to touch the brake lever,
the valve is already open, you just have to catch the spillage out of the brake master reservoir :rolleyes: which you should have emptied first anyway.


... actually step one it to push your brake pads all the way apart and hold them there with a piece of wood while you are doing the flush, that way your callipers are virtually empty of fluid or air to start with. If you do it right you won't be putting air into the system, only fluid, zero bleeding required.

:lol: ABS proponents pay no attention to me, you're on your own, you get what you paid for.
 
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Trials said:
If you push the fresh fluid in from the bottom you don't even need to touch the brake lever,
the valve is already open, you just have to catch the spillage out of the brake master reservoir :rolleyes: which you should have emptied first anyway.


... actually step one it to push your brake pads all the way apart and hold them there with a piece of wood while you are doing the flush, that way your callipers are virtually empty of fluid or air to start with. If you do it right you won't be putting air into the system, only fluid, zero bleeding required.

:lol: ABS proponents pay no attention to me, you're on your own, you get what you paid for.
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I don't like pushing the dirty caliper fluid back up into the master. I haven't done it, but it just seems like a bad idea.

Personally I bought a pressure bleeder as it makes fluid changes on a car a fast and easy one man job. It is not necessary and I still do a few pumps if possible as manual pumping puts a lot more pressure in the system than the pressure bleeder. On a motorbike the pressure bleeder wastes some fluid as you need a bunch in the tank, but I toss the rest of the bottle anyway so it doesn't cost me anything.
 
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GreyGhost said:
I don't like pushing the dirty caliper fluid back up into the master. I haven't done it, but it just seems like a bad idea...
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Puts it out of there pretty fast, you can pretty much always see the colour change,
& discard fluid from the master reservoir until it starts flowing clear,
vacuum the reservoir empty, put some fresh fluid in, then finish topping it up in the normal way once the new pads are installed.

?:I caliper fluid 'dirty' you're replacing it because of water content
and being very careful to not introduce dirt or air in the service process. <- that's the only real skill part, the rest is just mess.

... note the stuff is toxic nasty, I save up the old stuff along with used anti-freeze for toxic nasty collection day.
 
I do gravity bleeding, could not be any more simple to do with same results, actually had to throw a caliper on my Sierra last night in the lane way with a snow squall happening, bled for about 5 minutes, tightened nipple and truck was ready for morning drive to work with a nice firm pedal.
 
ReSTored said:
There no way I can reach my left front caliper and front brake lever at the same time without being a contortionist so on a bike with a full fairing bleeding brakes is a two person job.

I've been using speed bleeders for about 15 years and they make it a very simple job for the 3 calipers + clutch I have to maintain. One thing not mentioned in posts is that you have to keep the master topped up with fluid as you bleed. Adding fluid with the speed bleeders is very easy, you just stop pumping the lever or pedal, top up and then continue.

I think the one scenario where a vacuum device would shine is where you've disassembled the system to replace hoses, pistons, seals etc... and the whole system is full of air. Pulling fluid through an empty system is probably quicker then pushing it via pumping the lever, although both will work.
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your sig says st 1100 so if that's the full fairing bike? I do it on my FJR1300 a few times a year with the speed bleeders.
A tip to some ..save time and use a turkey baster to suck out dirty fluid out of the master and replace with fresh fluid this will speed things up before you start bleeding.
 
Any of these at about 2 bucks each and half the price of a cheap turkey baster <- which barely produces any suction at all and is useless for filling brakes through the bleed screw.

s-l1600.jpg


I give these 9 out of 10 because while they do a fantastic job of pushing or pulling fluid, they don't last an entire lifetime.
 
matthew said:
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/vacuum-pump-and-brake-bleeder-kit/A-p8050832e

Has anyone used the brake bleeder that I posted above?

I have to replace my brake fluid and the kit seems like it will be a big help.
Thanks.
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I had the exact same one about ten years ago from Princess Auto. It was good enough to bleed the brakes on my 2001 VFR .It had the linked braking system which I thought worked pretty good despite what others say.I think there were 9 bleeder screws on that system. I did three or four other bikes with it and then all of a sudden it didn't work so good.I got my moneys worth out of it I guess . I used a mighty vac once and I think it worked a little better.
 
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matt365 said:
I had the same one from PA. Worked once, and never sealed right again. Total junk.

OP
Pick up a farm syringe from TSC, (3 pack for two bucks), and some 1/4" tubing.


Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
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Ill look into the farm syringe idea. There's a TSC in town.
 
Trials said:
:lol: ABS proponents pay no attention to me, you're on your own, you get what you paid for.
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So I need to bleed my linked ABS system twice in order to get old fluid out of the pump... I look at as 2x the fun.

Plus... Activating the ABS in test mode... the pulsing lever... the pulsing pedal.... Kinda feels kinky...
 
Hack said:
So I need to bleed my linked ABS system twice in order to get old fluid out of the pump... I look at as 2x the fun.

Plus... Activating the ABS in test mode... the pulsing lever... the pulsing pedal.... Kinda feels kinky...
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What did that other fella say :rolleyes: 9 bleed screws! Imagine doing that the last minute before a race.
 
Trials said:
What did that other fella say :rolleyes: 9 bleed screws! Imagine doing that the last minute before a race.
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Well, I'm not a track/race guy so... It's not that big a deal.
Is is however extra work, but... It's gotta be done.
 
If you have more than one bike, or you just want to do this bit of maintenance the most efficient way possible, the 50 buck version that requires a compressor is incredibly worthwhile.
It is hands free so you can concentrate on topping up the fluid instead of activating the brake lever/pedal or syringe.
3 bikes in less time than it took to do 1 bike manually with or without a syringe.
Like most "eureka!" moments I wonder what/why/how have I been doing this all wrong for 20 plus years, the answer is usually I haven't found, or tried the right tool for the job at hand. This is one of those tools.
 
Goocati said:
If you have more than one bike, or you just want to do this bit of maintenance the most efficient way possible, the 50 buck version that requires a compressor is incredibly worthwhile.
It is hands free so you can concentrate on topping up the fluid instead of activating the brake lever/pedal or syringe.
3 bikes in less time than it took to do 1 bike manually with or without a syringe.
Like most "eureka!" moments I wonder what/why/how have I been doing this all wrong for 20 plus years, the answer is usually I haven't found, or tried the right tool for the job at hand. This is one of those tools.
Click to expand...

I have two bikes; one with linked brakes. Which bleeder uses a compressor?
 
I’ve used the PA one shown by the OP for years. I don’t use it to suck the fluid down but to prevent brake fluid from getting on the calipers/pads/master after bleeding the traditional way. It just acts as a tube with a container really. It’s nice to have when installing new lines though.
 
I just got home from Canadian Tire and they sell the Mityvac kit for $69. They sell it in their "OEM" house brand packaging bit it says Mityvac right on the pump.Exact same kit i used a few years back.
 
I use the same type of pump, I think I got mine at harbour freight.

I use it each spring when I take apart my brakes on the gsxr and vstar to inspect them, clean them, make sure the pistons are all moving equally and I use it to flush out with new fliud.

Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk
 
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