PC5 Auto-tune | GTAMotorcycle.com

PC5 Auto-tune

Shaman

Shaman

Well-known member
I can't find any information about using it with U4.4 fuel so I am going to just run straight gasoline (better idea anyway, I suppose) and hope this solves my fuelling issues. Various people have said that U4.4's lead will kill the O2 sensor but various people say all kinds of things. DynoJet still hasn't answered my support e-mail.

Any shared experiences with this product are welcome.
 
I used the bazzaz auto tune with leaded race fuel. It made the sensor even lazier than it already is and made a mess of my custom map. I got the bike retuned and tossed the auto tune into a box where it's stayed for the last 3 years. If you're using it on the street the system has time to react and suggest a proper value to fix the afr. On the track your throttle inputs are all over the place and never constant so the system can't keep up and throws out stupid numbers that just wreck a proper tune.
 
DynoJet's response:

--

This fuel is NOT considered sensor safe. This is a leaded fuel. I just don’t know the specific amount of lead. So it will substantially reduce the life expectancy of an O2 sensor.

Normally you should be able to get about 1600-2000 hours out of an O2 sensor with unleaded fuel. Depending on the percentage of lead, it could reduce this life expectancy by as much as 90%.

I would only recommend keeping the sensor in the exhaust while tuning, and removing it and disabling Auto-tune as soon as possible. I would not recommend using it permanently or full-time with this fuel.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Regards,

Chris Kelly
Dynojet Research Inc.
2191 Mendenhall Dr. Suite 105
North Las Vegas, NV 89081
1-800-992-4993

--
 
When Dyno tuning with leaded race fuel there's an added charge (atleast there was when I used it) to replace the sensor as it's pretty much garbage after.
 
Any leaded fuel is going to damage a sensor, some more then others but either way if its leaded its not "good" for your 02 sensor

Anyone looking to buy Auto-tune hit me up I have 2 for sale that I removed from my bikes when I started running leaded fuels in them
 
Use the Auto Tune on a dyno. Not on the street and certainly not on a race track. Sample times are too slow to get any useful information anywhere but a dyno. Install new O2 sensor prior to dyno tuning, dyno tune, throw out O2 sensor and insert plug into exhaust. Go on your merry way.
 
Too late to do that right now. I started the project to make this bike actually be competitive a month ago and as usual here we are the day before practice with nothing tested and no time to tune the bike. Local dealership sold their dyno (recently) so an emergency favour-call won't even help.
 
Get a map from someone with a similar bike or from the Dynojet download page.

It won't make the most power but should run reasonably well.


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I have a map of a stock 600 with Yosh full system, but that doesn't do much for the head work and cams. :/
 
Off season will be here soon so you'll have plenty of time to get it sorted.


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Shaman said:
I have a map of a stock 600 with Yosh full system, but that doesn't do much for the head work and cams. :/
Click to expand...

Uhh what map was on there before? Is the cam timing/head completely different or just fresh?
 
dricked said:
Uhh what map was on there before? Is the cam timing/head completely different or just fresh?
Click to expand...

A map so bad that the bike was hitching and starting in corners and bogging if it was under 12,000 rpm. Z1 set it up and it never ran right - when it was just a track day bike I didn't care that much... rev the tits off it and carry on, but if it costs even tenths of a second in racing, it's got to be fixed. Some corners there just isn't a right gear when your engine is that inflexible... and almost losing the front end when the engine hiccups just about every lap doesn't do much for confidence. I've refrained from bitching too much about it because just like this weekend, I'll run the bike as long as it will carry me 10 laps. Frustrating, though.

Hopefully the changes I made to the 1000 over the last Calabogie sessions will let me race that cleanly in the AM 1000 class. But again in regular fashion, I ordered parts and set a schedule for fixes a month ago and the bike is CURRENTLY at the local shop getting the exhaust header leak fixed, finally. So I have to leave practice early tomorrow to collect it. OY VEY
 
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I'd give up on this year and start retooling for 2016.


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Hey, I've placed as high as 3rd with the bike running like that and giving me brake issues. I think I've solved the brake problem decisively and I at least have HOPES that the bike will run well on auto-tune. We'll see, though. :/ If all else fails, I still have the PC3 with the old @#$% map in it.

Besides, I'm trying not to let the whole thing get to me... it's all for fun, amirite?!
 
I should mention that the leaking fork seals and three tight valves have also been fixed... lol

This is the stuff that happens when you have a surgery in October and you need two more over the winter. I wasn't able to do ANY work to the bikes until the week before round 1. I'm not actually unhappy with the way it's gone, just that I've had these issues affecting me and it's a bit frustrating that even foreplanning doesn't seem to get the job done in time (the fork seals went bad in round 1, FWIW).
 
Shaman said:
A map so bad that the bike was hitching and starting in corners and bogging if it was under 12,000 rpm. Z1 set it up and it never ran right - when it was just a track day bike I didn't care that much... rev the tits off it and carry on, but if it costs even tenths of a second in racing, it's got to be fixed. Some corners there just isn't a right gear when your engine is that inflexible... and almost losing the front end when the engine hiccups just about every lap doesn't do much for confidence. I've refrained from bitching too much about it because just like this weekend, I'll run the bike as long as it will carry me 10 laps. Frustrating, though.

Hopefully the changes I made to the 1000 over the last Calabogie sessions will let me race that cleanly in the AM 1000 class. But again in regular fashion, I ordered parts and set a schedule for fixes a month ago and the bike is CURRENTLY at the local shop getting the exhaust header leak fixed, finally. So I have to leave practice early tomorrow to collect it. OY VEY
Click to expand...

I would have discussed a solution with z1 when you noticed a problem. Both my bikes are built and tuned by z1 with no drivability issues and plenty of power. Any time there was any issues they had no problem correcting or explaing why I had the issue.

So the bike hasn't been refreshed after complaining about it at the beginning of the season correct? Tuning only does so much and can't correct mechanical issues.
 
Time. That's the problem. Same problem with Z1.

BTW I believed in Z1 as well. Then I found out that the tune is apparently from 2012, named "Shubie". I had the bike tuned by Z1 in very late 2012. My friend had his CBR there at my recommendation - and I delivered it in my trailer.. similar issue, the bike ran lean, no different from before it was taken there (lean because of a slip-on pipe). Now, I don't know what happened , it was done in the late fall, maybe that's my friend's problem. What's mine? I don't know. I do know this, there was a vacuum line left off my GSX-R 1000, and the bike was apparently dyno'd. I dropped it about 200 feet from my house when the engine cut off suddenly at walking pace and dumped me on the pavement because it wouldn't run properly with a bad vacuum leak.

So that's three strikes. Do you go back? Well, I did get Z1 to fix the vacuum line, which cost me yet another day of driving and $120 worth of fuel. Plus about $600 in cosmetic and foot controls. The tune I didn't find out about until months later at the track, called him and he said he'd be happy to look at it, but it was as good as he could get it... not very willing to help. I found out about the notes on the tune (2012, Shubie) later. Cut my losses and moved on.
 
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Well that escalated quickly.

Don't use auto-tune on the track. Good luck.
 
... and if you're going to run leaded fuel with an O2 sensor have a bunch of O2 sensors in your spares, cuz the vapourized lead in the exhaust coats the O2 sensor.

My suggestion to you guys running leaded fuels is to find a tuner that has kept up with the times. There is NO reason to run leaded fuels in 2015. There is NO more power in leaded fuel... and anyone that tells you different is stuck in the '80s. Leaded fuel went out with domed pistons.
 
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