Oil Filter Wrench

For my bike, Honda sells a kit that comes with the Filter + a filter wrench.

Wasn't very expensive.

It's good quality and works well. Probably fits your bike too.
 
Bradsma said:
Mine was as simple as idle 3-5 mins, let it sit 2-3mins, remove filter and oil. Replace filter and oil, run 3-5 mins, sit 2-3 mins and check oil level.
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ATTS said:
As mentioned above, once you fill it up, make sure to run it for a few minutes after you have filled it and then check the level again.
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The OP is winterizing the bike, so, it's not a good idea to run the engine after changing the oil because it will contaminate the new oil. The reason for changing oil just before winterizing is to prevent the old oil from ruining the aluminum block. Oil chemistry changes over periods of extended storage. Old oil can develop acidic qualities, which can corrode engine parts. Just leave the bike alone after changing the oil. If you need to adjust the level, do so in the spring.
 
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Tighten by hand only and don't kill it...serious. You can always use an old belt to take it off.
 
I was always told tighten by hand and then add a 1/4 turn
 
jeffjones said:
I was always told tighten by hand and then add a 1/4 turn
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Problem with that is that everyone has different hand strength so different people will stop at different tightnesses. And not all filters have the same thread (threads per inch) so a 1/4 turn will not tighten all filters the same amout.

Usually the tightening instructions are written on the filter.
 
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I always use the oil filter tool to remove/install my filter.
I'm sure if you tighten it by hand that it will not fall off but I would not trust it to be leak proof.
The tool is not expensive and worth the peace of mind.
 
Ikan said:
Problem with that is that everyone has different hand strength so different people will stop at different tightnesses. And not all filters have the same thread (threads per inch) so a 1/4 turn will not tighten all filters the same amout.

Usually the tightening instructions are written on the filter.
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how about the torque setting? really no need to be so serious, is only a 10 dollar oil filter, everyone i know of tighten them by hand, it's a pita to get it off the next time if you tighten it too hard. i always heard people have to break their oil filter to get it off they made the job too complicated.

for kawasaki:
http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-14-forum/53287-how-tight-should-oil-filter-tightened.html

suzuki:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143058&page=2

most people recommended tighten it by hand. Is OK to use a tool but make sure you dont over tighten it, 1/4 turn is more than enough.
 
elton_t said:
how about the torque setting? really no need to be so serious, is only a 10 dollar oil filter, everyone i know of tighten them by hand, it's a pita to get it off the next time if you tighten it too hard. i always heard people have to break their oil filter to get it off they made the job too complicated.

for kawasaki:
http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-14-forum/53287-how-tight-should-oil-filter-tightened.html

suzuki:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143058&page=2

most people recommended tighten it by hand. Is OK to use a tool but make sure you dont over tighten it, 1/4 turn is more than enough.
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c


It is not about the price of the oil fillter it is about saving the engine and not crashing on a motorcycle. As a former working licenced mechanic I can recall many cases where people under tightened the oil filter and the oil pressure blue the oil out past the oil o-ring on the filter after about 15 minutes of driving or riding.
Also I have seen as you say where people often over tighten tighten the filter resulting in oil loss due to distorting the oil filter's o-ring. Also it is very difficult to get the filter off later resulting in having to destroy the filter in the removal process.

That is why filters have the instructions on them. A torque or specific such as 1 1/4 turns past o-ring to engine contact are given because these are finite instructions taking out vaugeness or judgement.

On motorcycles I prefer to torque or follow the instructions for safeties sake and piece of mind. You know you can ride behind me and never get oil sprayed. :) Can not say the same for some I have seen.
 
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I can tell you in this world most people dont follow specific torque setting on draining bolts and oil filter, no need to take it so serious about it. Make sure it's slug and tight then you're good to go. I never use a torque wrench and never had any problems like most people.
 
^^ hard to argue with following the manual.

Also spread some oil on the rubber washer of the filter so it spins easily when tightening.
 
elton_t said:
I can tell you in this world most people dont follow specific torque setting on draining bolts and oil filter, no need to take it so serious about it. Make sure it's slug and tight then you're good to go. I never use a torque wrench and never had any problems like most people.
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I was simply trying to give the OP who asked a question the benefit of my experience(s) which may well not reflect everyone elses.
Generally when I attempt to assist someone on technical issues I will provide the best and safest approach. The person can go on to develop their own preferred technique. If I do not provide a reason(s) for a specific action then the 'student' will not appreciate the purpose or action.

Also I have found that due to location some oil filters can be impossible to get a good grip on with my hand(s) or to get to it without leaving blood behind. Hence why sometimes a filter wrench is needed. My car is like that. One of my motorcycles is like that.

Thank you for being so serious in your efforts also.

Have a great day! I cannot decide if today is warm enough for a last ride. Yup it is! :D
 
Ikan said:
Have a great day! I cannot decide if today is warm enough for a last ride. Yup it is! :D
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I envy you, I'm stuck at work 'till 4/5 pm... by the time I get home, it's too cold and dark.
Next Saturday is a high of 12, season is not over yet! :)
 
robmack said:
The OP is winterizing the bike, so, it's not a good idea to run the engine after changing the oil because it will contaminate the new oil. The reason for changing oil just before winterizing is to prevent the old oil from ruining the aluminum block. Oil chemistry changes over periods of extended storage. Old oil can develop acidic qualities, which can corrode engine parts. Just leave the bike alone after changing the oil. If you need to adjust the level, do so in the spring.
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Running the engine for a minute or two will not contaminate the oil so badly that it will ruin the block by sitting for three months.
 
Thanks everyone for all the useful suggestions! I spent a few hours running through everything yesterday and the bike is now put away. I ended up picking up a socket set, and used that to get the old filter off (K&N now uses a 17mm bolt FYI). All in all, not nearly as daunting as I thought it would be, other than being very sad for not getting to ride for a while now.
 
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