New pad installation problem

ItIsWhatItIs said:
You tried to save money and bought the wrong pads. Doh! To fix your clusterfak go to the dealer with your year and model and let the dealer determine the pads you are to use. Don't be a hero and go in with part numbers. Let them help you out and figure it out for you.
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What makes you think I bought the wrong pads? Please just stay out of my thread. :rolleyes:
 
redridernl said:
What makes you think I bought the wrong pads? Please just stay out of my thread. :rolleyes:
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When you go to the dealer don't leave anything to chance be sure to bring in your ownership and let them (not you) extract the information they require in order to get you the right part. The last thing you need is a repeat of this clusterfak.
 
ItIsWhatItIs said:
When you go to the dealer don't leave anything to chance be sure to bring in your ownership and let them (not you) extract the information they require in order to get you the right part. The last thing you need is a repeat of this clusterfak.
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It's okay. I brought it to the attention of my HR Dept. I think they'll know what to do.
 
ItIsWhatItIs said:
When you go to the dealer don't leave anything to chance be sure to bring in your ownership and let them (not you) extract the information they require in order to get you the right part. The last thing you need is a repeat of this clusterfak.
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Still more useless posts??? Seriously?
 
redridernl said:
The piston isn't flush with the caliper. It sticks out a very small amount but it pushed in smoothly up to that point. Like I said, I cleaned them, they were off the bike so there shouldn't have been anything to interfere with the piston. Are they always flush?
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What is the bike model and year? I am most familiar with sport bikes, and I have never came across any front calipers where the pistons did not push in all the way flush. Allowing the pad backers to rest directly on the caliper....OEM or aftermarket Brembo, etc, for me have always been able to push the piston in flush
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JohnnyP636 said:
What is the bike model and year? I am most familiar with sport bikes, and I have never came across any front calipers where the pistons did not push in all the way flush. Allowing the pad backers to rest directly on the caliper....OEM or aftermarket Brembo, etc, for me have always been able to push the piston in flush
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IMG_0547.jpg
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This is a troll thread. Opening up the bleeder screw would certainly allow the piston to fully retract.
 
ItIsWhatItIs said:
This is a troll thread. Opening up the bleeder screw would certainly allow the piston to fully retract.
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Not always, sometimes pistons have a hard time going back in all the way because they have not been in for so long...Corrosion or dirt builds up and makes them hard to push in all the way....Somtimes I have had to take the pistons out to clean them really well before they would go back in all the way, and other times a piston clamp had to be used....

The guy has a technical issue, and this is a technical section put here for people to ask questions and give info and suggestions...He is not trolling, he is using the forum and section as its intended to be used...

Before he posted here he didnt know the pistons should go in all the way, now he does, so hes one step closer
 
JohnnyP636 said:
What is the bike model and year? I am most familiar with sport bikes, and I have never came across any front calipers where the pistons did not push in all the way flush. Allowing the pad backers to rest directly on the caliper....OEM or aftermarket Brembo, etc, for me have always been able to push the piston in flush
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It's an 08 cbr1000rr. The rear nissin caliper, single piston. I haven't touched the front yet.
 
ItIsWhatItIs said:
This is a troll thread. Opening up the bleeder screw would certainly allow the piston to fully retract.
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There's no need to open a bleeder to push a piston back in the caliper. Open the reservoir sure if the fluid has been topped up.
 
sircastic said:
There's no need to open a bleeder to push a piston back in the caliper. Open the reservoir sure if the fluid has been topped up.
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He replaced the brake line, because of this air could be in the lines. That would stop the piston from retracting. If he wasn't messing with the brake lines using a clamp to press the caliper in would be the end of it. Open up the bleeder screw, the piston will retract and he will have the room to put his pads on. He probably doesn't know how to bleed brakes so I expect a new thread to be started on that.
 
redridernl said:
As I have stated, the caliper was off the bike, there was no fluid and the bleeder screw was completely removed from the caliper. Go away ffs.
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The plot thickens. Definately a troll thread. A caliper is off the bike and you can't get the caliper to retract? Hmm, most would realize they need a new caliper and not start a thread, gee I wonder why? Parts wear out and they require replacement, end of thread.
 
ItIsWhatItIs said:
He replaced the brake line, because of this air could be in the lines. That would stop the piston from retracting. If he wasn't messing with the brake lines using a clamp to press the caliper in would be the end of it. Open up the bleeder screw, the piston will retract and he will have the room to put his pads on. He probably doesn't know how to bleed brakes so I expect a new thread to be started on that.
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I can't believe I'm even responding to this... The caliper was off the bike, no fluid, no bleeder screw and no lines when I pushed the piston back in.
 
redridernl said:
I can't believe I'm even responding to this... The caliper was off the bike, no fluid, no bleeder screw and no lines when I pushed the piston back in.
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AND??

the piston would not go flush. Perhaps that should have told you something about the caliper and what you need to do with it.
 
ItIsWhatItIs said:
He replaced the brake line, because of this air could be in the lines. That would stop the piston from retracting. If he wasn't messing with the brake lines using a clamp to press the caliper in would be the end of it. Open up the bleeder screw, the piston will retract and he will have the room to put his pads on. He probably doesn't know how to bleed brakes so I expect a new thread to be started on that.
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No, air in the caliper would not prevent the piston from retracting. If the caliper is connected to the brake line without air in the system there's no need to open the bleeder. If there isn't air in the system, there's no reason to open the bleeder.

If you can't push the piston back in the caliper without the bleeder open then your line is collapsed on the inside or the compensating port in the master is plugged.

He stated that he put the OEM pads back in and the brakes were fine.

Please stop providing misinformation.
 
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