Still not quite right. You need to do math for the lever. Gripped at 18" and apply 75 lbs and you get 112.5 ft-lbs. Your method can work similar to mine but if you are not holding at 12", you need to add math.
I didn't do a great job of explaining the scale method... I check my wrenches this way using the grip and a reference on the weight which I note inside the case. IIRC my 24" wrench is 150ft/lbs @ 75lbs on the handle. A smaller 18" wrench would be 112.5.
I should have added explained how to calculate mechanical advantage. Torque setting in ft/lbs= lever_length X weight / 12.
I didn't do a great job of explaining the scale method... I check my wrenches this way using the grip and a reference on the weight which I note inside the case. IIRC my 24" wrench is 150ft/lbs @ 75lbs on the handle. A smaller 18" wrench would be 112.5.
I should have added explained how to calculate mechanical advantage. Torque setting in ft/lbs= lever_length X weight / 12.
And to the point, THAT is a pretty important part to leave out on your simple method (what we are getting at), what if someone followed it? Even things like body position and any body movement will have an impact BTW.
I posted procedure before. Basically hang known weight at known distance and see if you get a click. Eg. 50 lbs at 18", set wrench for 75 ft lbs and it should only take one finger to move back and forth through the click. Calibration is only as good as the known quantity so I wouldnt trust a scale.
The golden rule of crappy tire tools do not buy unless discounted 50% or more.
You can have cheap or good but very seldom will you get good and cheap together.
Growing up i knew some folks that would buy "lifetime" warranted hand tools at yard sales take them home and intentionally overload them till they broke so that they could return them for a brand new replacement.
Never fully understood this as the tools were so inexpensive in the first place.
The golden rule of crappy tire tools do not buy unless discounted 50% or more.
You can have cheap or good but very seldom will you get good and cheap together.
Growing up i knew some folks that would buy "lifetime" warranted hand tools at yard sales take them home and intentionally overload them till they broke so that they could return them for a brand new replacement.
Never fully understood this as the tools were so inexpensive in the first place.
The golden rule of crappy tire tools do not buy unless discounted 50% or more.
You can have cheap or good but very seldom will you get good and cheap together.
Growing up i knew some folks that would buy "lifetime" warranted hand tools at yard sales take them home and intentionally overload them till they broke so that they could return them for a brand new replacement.
Never fully understood this as the tools were so inexpensive in the first place.
The irony, depending on the age (there is a sweet spot) of the tools the one they broke may have been better than the replacement. If they are really old, well metallurgy has come a long way in 50/100 years...
I will admit, and it brings me great shame, a few years ago I bought some full price tools at CT. I was in the middle of a project and needed etorx sockets larger than the sizes I had and couldn't wait. Oh the shame....thanks for reminding me of a traumatic moment.
I always thought the golden rule for buying Canadian Tire branded tools was DON'T.
FULL STOP.
... and the "metallurgy" in tools, ALL tools, has gone one way in the last 50 years... DOWN in quality.
Get yourself a drill set made in the US or Germany in the '50s and compare it to the twisted yellow monkey metal thing you get today.
The real irony of cheating the system on warranty and free replacement, it takes a while big eventually the beaners get onto cost of goods sold and replaced inventory and all the math stuff , either the warranty drops or the tools just get more expensive to cover scammers . Everyone looses including the scammers eventually.
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