That looks like the MRI of my shoulder
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Mastercraft Warranty
- Thread starter -Maverick-
- Start date
That looks like the MRI of my shoulder
-Maverick-
Well-known member
They've gone so far down the slippery slope of Made in China that it's a matter of principle. The torque wrench doesn't need calibrated, it's actually physically broken. I hate Canadian Tire and go out of my way to never shop there. I just want to see if they will stand behind the name that made them. I'll probably never even use the replacement if I get one as it's Made in China.For $110 on a 20 year old tool is it worth the hassle ?
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Malks
Well-known member
A few years ago (just before Covid), I easily got an exchange on my 1/2 drive torque wrench after the handle and locking ring broke. That wrench was over 15 years old and was the basic Mastercraft model. The only replacement they had was the Maximum one that came in a nice plastic case. No questions or problems and I was on my way in minutes.
I posted procedure before. Basically hang known weight at known distance and see if you get a click. Eg. 50 lbs at 18", set wrench for 75 ft lbs and it should only take one finger to move back and forth through the click. Calibration is only as good as the known quantity so I wouldnt trust a scale.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
1. Set wrench to 75ft lbs, attach socket
2. Put a scale beside the car, vlose enough to stan on while torturing a wheel.
3. stand on scale, weigh yourself in lbs, note the weight and subtract 75lbs.
4. With socket on a tightened lug, and you on the scale, press down on the handle till the wrench clicks, the scale should read yourweight-75lbs. If it clicks early or late, adjust the calibration screw, repeat till the clicks happens at yourweight-75lbs.
The scale needs to be accurate for this to work.
The article linked to is from 2014. I've exchanged much more recently than that (last 6 months maybe...)
Have you ever stood in line behind a guy like yourself? How did that make you feel when you're waiting while someone is wasting everyone's time over "principle"?
Or put yourself in the store's position and you own the business.
I'd say you got your money's worth from that tool ... respectfully, don't be one yourself.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I tried to exchange a construction heater that was recalled, the Markham CTC refused to exchange the heater and because I didn't have the bill, they offered me $59.95 store credit claiming that without a bill all I was entitled to was lowest 'sale price' on record for the item. The heater had a bad solder joint on the element, it melted then started to arc - I repaired the thing before the recall was issued.
I paid $119 for the heater IIRC. They claim they discontinued the item so there was no exchange on the item. They suggested I use the store credit against the purchase of the exact same heater which they sell under the name Dyna Glo at $145.99. All I wanted was an exchange -- they said no.
CTC used to be my go to local store, I stopped buying at CTC since -- been 3 years.
I was talking "mastercraft" tools. But you're not wrong. I had a mastercraft vise and the spring went on it. The replacement vise was cheap copy of my original. No slots for gripping pipe and tube. The sales guy admitted they just don't make them as good. However I did open a larger vise and that came with magnetic soft jaws and tell him these would ease the pain of my crappy replacement. He let me have those too.
CTC. You can never find a Red Shirt to help you (they're like cockroaches after turning a light on), but there always seems to be someone hovering around "shopping" in the aisle you're in.
The mechanical ratio of the head would match the leverage ratio of the arm length.
This is a 5 Nm torque wrench. 5 Nm on it is the same as 5 Nm on a 1/2" Mastercraft torque wrench. Just the internals are different.
But if you stand on a scale to calibrate the two you will see different results as the length of the lever is different. BUT the torque is the same at the fastener (that is the point of the device), not the end of the wrench your hand is on.The mechanical ratio of the head would match the leverage ratio of the arm length.
This is a 5 Nm torque wrench. 5 Nm on it is the same as 5 Nm on a 1/2" Mastercraft torque wrench. Just the internals are different.
Think of it like putting a long "cheater" pipe on the end of a wrench. Is the effort the same with or without the pipe. No! If you try MM's method with a four foot pipe on the end of the torque wrench or with just the torque wrench will the scale read the same on the scale???? All comes down to, will the scale read the same for a 8 inch long torque wrench and an 18 inch torque wrench for the same torque at the fastener??? No.
The method noted by @GreyGhost takes all this into consideration.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
The mechanical advantage is based on where you grip the wrench, grip it in the same place for calibration and use -- you're golden!
NEED FASTER
Well-known member
I have 1/2 tool box full of Craftsman socket sets, screwdrivers, wrenches and other assorted tools bought from Simpson's in the 70's & 80's.
Guaranteed for life. Guess that's not happening.
Guaranteed for life. Guess that's not happening.
Still not quite right. You need to do math for the lever. Gripped at 18" and apply 75 lbs and you get 112.5 ft-lbs. Your method can work similar to mine but if you are not holding at 12", you need to add math.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Either method works, the scale requires calibrated scale and simple arithmetic (weight -torque), the weight and string require an accurate weight and some physics to calculate mechanical advantage so you can place the weight.
For the average mechanic, this is a lot about nothing. I have a couple of el-cheapo torque wrenches banging around in my trunk -- had them for 20+ years, dropped them plenty of times, and 1/2 the time I forget to unload them. I can't remember any of them being out of spec by any meaningful amount.
If you're building race engines this stuff matters a little more - you're also likely to know how to calibrate your own stuff accurately.
Here's a challenge for all the torque-heads out there? If you use anti-seize on a wheel nut with a torque spec of 135Nm lbs, what do you set your torque wrench too?
The same place just means you will get the same or similar measurement each time you do it, it does not mean the measurement is in any way accurate unless that place (hand hold) is a accurately calibrated position to adjust for MA (not included in your method). This is classic precision does not equal accuracy in scientific terms. If you stand on your scale and use the end of the wrench (say 18" out, typical 1/2" torque wrench) 75 lbs on your scale does not equal 75 lbs-ft of torque (not accurate) but if you keep doing it the same way you will achieve precision (repeatability). If you factor in leverage/distance/MA and then actually X on the scale = Y torque then you can get both, but your scale method is ignoring this.
My guess is your 1/2" torque wrenches you calibrated this way are hitting ~112 lbs.ft when you set them to 75....
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