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Load bearing wall removal
- Thread starter SVeezy
- Start date
Tbh I was making an assumption. I haven’t ever been in the attic to check. House was built in the 50’s. The walls are plaster and lathe with something that looks like chicken wire. I hate working on anything because I’ve been spoiled with modern drywall and studs for the most part.
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Truss normally equals non load bearing walls can't imagine trusses and 50's house
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mbroyda
Well-known member
like others have said, get an engineer to design the beam and temporary shoring, and then have a contractor price it out.
there is no way a contractor can give you an accurate price without all the information, what size beam? what size posts? are additional posts required in the basement? are additional footings required for those posts?
there is no way a contractor can give you an accurate price without all the information, what size beam? what size posts? are additional posts required in the basement? are additional footings required for those posts?
The right contractor can shoot from the hip and maybe get close, but without that stamped drawing you cant get a firm price.
Lots of good advice here and the best and proper way is to get an engineer to design and stamp the change, get the correct permits and get a proper contractor to do the work. It is you and your family's safety.
At the same time, it is not rocket surgery and many people do this change DIY, most improperly but many properly. Temp wall on both sides to support the structure when the target wall is removed and then a properly sized beam etc. for the span to replace the wall, also making sure the structure below the change can also handle the now higher point loads. The beam will likely sit below ceiling height (although in some situations it can be recessed, my guess from your description is no) so don't expect a flat ceiling. Under sizing the beam for aesthetics is IMO where most people/from the hip contractors with half a brain go wrong.
At the same time, it is not rocket surgery and many people do this change DIY, most improperly but many properly. Temp wall on both sides to support the structure when the target wall is removed and then a properly sized beam etc. for the span to replace the wall, also making sure the structure below the change can also handle the now higher point loads. The beam will likely sit below ceiling height (although in some situations it can be recessed, my guess from your description is no) so don't expect a flat ceiling. Under sizing the beam for aesthetics is IMO where most people/from the hip contractors with half a brain go wrong.
Trials
Well-known member
If you want to go to school to be an architect, here is one of the first free publications they are going to tell you to learn:
... if you memorize this booklet it might not make you a builder, but it will certainly help you to know if your contractor is a builder.
... if you memorize this booklet it might not make you a builder, but it will certainly help you to know if your contractor is a builder.
The roof is probably not trussed, they existed but were not very common in Cdn residential construction until the 70's. Any GOOD contractor can give you a quote because he has likely done the job before, will be able to look and see if the load points at each end of a beam will fall on existing load points that are sufficient to transfer the load to the basement. He likely knows what beam is required and can tell you if the beam could be reccesed into the ceiling and metal connectors used to transfer ceiling joists.
He can probably suggest and architect or engineer that he already has relationships with. In the end you will need drawings but a contactor will know what they will cost + - .
possibly he also knows which architect will want to build a spiral staircase into the attic because its art...... when all you need is a load calculation.
trip to your local municipal office is always a good idea , they aren't supposed to recommend a contractor but if your very polite they will steer you away from someone you dont want to hire.
other caveat ; you need no license or training to be a general contractor , thats why there are so many of them, they "contract" out to licensed professionals. Not all of them should be in business.
He can probably suggest and architect or engineer that he already has relationships with. In the end you will need drawings but a contactor will know what they will cost + - .
possibly he also knows which architect will want to build a spiral staircase into the attic because its art...... when all you need is a load calculation.
trip to your local municipal office is always a good idea , they aren't supposed to recommend a contractor but if your very polite they will steer you away from someone you dont want to hire.
other caveat ; you need no license or training to be a general contractor , thats why there are so many of them, they "contract" out to licensed professionals. Not all of them should be in business.
Trials
Well-known member
Sadly I don't think you can do tight spirals any more.
Is that really sad? Have you ever tried to move furniture through a circular staircase hole?
We used a chainsaw to make couches bite size pieces. The smoke got a little thick in the living room. The city didn't care how many garbage bags you put out, if it was in a bag, they would take it, if it wasn't, they wouldn't take it. A couch is about 17 garbage bags.
Yes I’ve accepted that the beam will hang below the ceiling. Tbh that’s a non issue for me, it will be nice to have it opened up. There is also a stack on the back wall that will have to remain.
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matt365
Well-known member
Why can't it be flush mount?
If its just roof load, and a hip roof above; there is no reason you can't have a multi-ply lvl beam, and joist hangers to support the roof joists.
The engineer can tell you the angle for a scarf cut that won't compromise the i tegrity of the beam if you have to cut it for the roof line
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matt365
Well-known member
Its a little bit of a hack-job sketch, but this is a flush mount, 3-ply, 18' LVL I put in my sister-in-law's kitchen to remove a carrying wall. It was pretty tight with a 4/12 hip roof, and I had to put a 2x6 under the edge as a post to carry the load to the concrete wall below.
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Trials
Well-known member
The engineer is going to tell you not to cut the LVL anywhere over the post
and that you laid your 2x6's the wrong way :| not that they are doing much if they are not on top of the post.
I think the 2x6 is a post so he has bearing under a taller beam section.
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