Load bearing wall removal

[SVeezy]

Why can't it be flush mount?
If its just roof load, and a hip roof above; there is no reason you can't have a multi-ply lvl beam, and joist hangers to support the roof joists.

The engineer can tell you the angle for a scarf cut that won't compromise the i tegrity of the beam if you have to cut it for the roof line

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Well I suppose anything can be done lol. I’ve been told the beam wouldn’t be flush and that’s not an issue for me. I assumed that making the beam flush would thus equal x thousand dollars and my wallet agreed that was not worth it.

I actually considered knocking down the wall and leaving two pillars on the corresponding point loads in the basement. My wallet loves that idea, I just don’t want to regret it after. The beam showing doesn’t bother me at all.


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[matt365]

I think the 2x6 is a post so he has bearing under a taller beam section.

Yes.



Engineer provided me with the specs to scarf cut it.

As per the specs: there is a minimum height of uncut LVL above the 2x6 added to the bearing wall.

Add 2x4 in the wall to carry under the double top plate to the foundation.

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[matt365]

The engineer is going to tell you not to cut the LVL anywhere over the post
and that you laid your 2x6's the wrong way :| not that they are doing much if they are not on top of the post.

As I'm sure you know, -Engineered wood products such as glu-lam, psl, lvl; all aren't in the span tables in the building code. Its all "Engineer land". They always over engineer everything... and there is always exceptions to the rules.

The 2x6 on the flat gave me enough solid bearing and enough height to carry the load.

You know as well as I do that a 3-ply 12" LVL is overkill to hold up drywall, 2x4 joists, and insulation (oh, and a ceiling fan/potlights).

It was a 1950s era split level bungalow with rafters on a 4/12.

This is my day job.

Licensed carpenter. General Contractor. Whole family does it. Father, his two brothers, and both of their eldest sons. We all do everything. Masonry work too. (Dad and uncles are dual trades. Myself and cousins are tought by them, but only licensed for carpentry).

We have seen alot of hackjobs over the years. Homeowner's, and handymen that just slapped their name on the side of a truck and started quoting jobs...

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[Trials]

Its a little bit of a hack-job sketch, but this is a flush mount, 3-ply, 18' LVL I put in my sister-in-law's kitchen to remove a carrying wall. It was pretty tight with a 4/12 hip roof, and I had to put a 2x6 under the edge as a post to carry the load to the concrete wall below.

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If those boards drawn in cross section are the top of an exterior stud wall, your drawing is one vertical line short of showing that
and your beam did not replace a load bearing wall, all it is holding up is ceiling, it's a ceiling support. Your beam will never see a live load and that is why it would not need to be engineered. The space above it is not living space and your rafter is carrying the roof load to the exterior stud wall not shown.

If this is the same scenario the OP is looking at, then they have it made! If the wall they are removing has living space above it or is part of the roof structure, you can not reduce the dimension of the spanning support beam above the support.


"Engineered wood products such as glu-lam, psl, lvl; all aren't in the span tables in the building code."
Refer to page 283 in the CMHC book I linked." Table 19 - Maximum spans for glue-laminated floor beams – 20f-E grade1"

 

[nobbie48]

Is that really sad? Have you ever tried to move furniture through a circular staircase hole?

Have you every tried to walk down the inside of the spiral while moving furniture through the hole?
It's like stepping off a cliff. Eight inch rise, half inch run. Forget the treads and just slide down a pole.

A friend did a space saver spiral that invites law suits.

 

[nobbie48]

Tbh I was making an assumption. I haven’t ever been in the attic to check. House was built in the 50’s. The walls are plaster and lathe with something that looks like chicken wire. I hate working on anything because I’ve been spoiled with modern drywall and studs for the most part.


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Built in the 1950's I would assume gypsum boards (16" X 48") and plaster. The corner beads look like expanded metal mesh instead of the sheet metal used for drywall. Some inside corner stress points may have mesh reinforcing. A wall fully covered with mesh would be awesome if done right. Plastering was not learned in a two hour Home Depot session.

Before that it was wood lath and plaster.

 

[GreyGhost]

Have you every tried to walk down the inside of the spiral while moving furniture through the hole?
It's like stepping off a cliff. Eight inch rise, half inch run. Forget the treads and just slide down a pole.

A friend did a space saver spiral that invites law suits.

My last house had a few pie shaped stairs that tapered to 0. It caused at least a few spills over the years. My neighbours growing up had a proper tiny spiral staircase (steep and narrow). To move furniture, you take the staircase apart so you are dealing with just the hole (as even ikea furniture up through the staircase is difficult). Issue was, it was a two floor staircase so you are standing on plywood over a hole pushing furniture over your head up through a hole in the ceiling. Amazing. Well thought out. At least put a french doors on the second floor so you can move things that way.