Head Gasket Blown R1
- Thread starter YZFer
- Start date
thanks. guess ill have to start looking. doubt ill find one any time soon.
the bike is 2000 does that mean i have to find a engine for a 2000 year? or can a 2002 engine fit?
sorry for these noob questions this is my first bike and im still pretty new
thanks to the people who gave respectful and reasonable answers.
Lol first bike & R1
Why don't u post some pics or bid? If u are strapped for cash just let Frekeyguy take a look? I'm sure he'll be happy to get a part to play with
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Last edited:
A head gasket cannot be "loose". It can be "blown" or "leaking" but it cannot be "loose". It is trapped between two substantial chunks of metal (the head, and the cylinder block) that are held together with 10 very large bolts.
Right now, this situation could be anywhere between:
1. You are not explaining the situation properly and are mis-quoting and/or misunderstanding what you have been told, or someone is telling you something incorrect (possibly based on wrong or poorly-explained information), and there is actually not much wrong with the bike because the slight coolant leak that was the real original situation did not leak out enough coolant to actually let the engine run dry.
2. You are not explaining the situation properly and are mis-quoting and/or misunderstanding what you have been told, or someone is telling you something incorrect (possibly based on wrong or poorly-explained information), and the engine is completely lunched - it is now a lump of scrap metal - due to having been run without coolant at all for 20 minutes.
There is only one way you are going to find out the truth. Get the bike to someplace COMPETENT, and get them to properly diagnose what's wrong.
Don't jump to conclusions and don't try to diagnose it yourself - you will be wrong, you don't have enough experience to properly explain and understand. If you try to diagnose it over the internet, it will be based on incomplete or incorrect information (for the same underlying reason - you don't have enough experience to properly explain and understand) and will also be wrong. Garbage in, garbage out.
Known trustworthy local shops that I have personal experience with are Pro 6 Cycle and Z1 Cycletech. I would not give this to Rosey Toes. It's not that I have anything against that shop, but engine work on modern sport bikes are not their specialty. Pro 6 and Z1 Cycletech are roadracing shops that have A TON of experience with that type of bike.
If the collective suspicions of this forum are correct (in that you have lunched your engine by running it for 20 minutes without coolant, and it now won't start because it doesn't have any compression because either the head is cracked or the pistons and cylinders are all scored up and the rings are shot) it IS GOING to cost A LOT more than $1000 to pay someone else to straighten it out - this means buying another engine and paying shop labour rate to remove your engine and install the other one. You don't have the experience to do this yourself successfully ... I know this, because if you did, you wouldn't be asking the questions that you are asking, in the place that you are asking them!
Tough talking? Sure. Hard lesson? Absolutely. When all sorts of red warning lamps come on, or gauges on your instruments go out of bounds into the red zones, or fluid leaks out of your vehicle, STOP. Immediately. Shut the engine down and don't drive any further until you fix the problem properly. The tow will be less expensive than the repairs afterwards.
By the way, that generation of R1 engine is pretty near bulletproof ... but they won't survive running without essential fluids like coolant or engine oil.
Right now, this situation could be anywhere between:
1. You are not explaining the situation properly and are mis-quoting and/or misunderstanding what you have been told, or someone is telling you something incorrect (possibly based on wrong or poorly-explained information), and there is actually not much wrong with the bike because the slight coolant leak that was the real original situation did not leak out enough coolant to actually let the engine run dry.
2. You are not explaining the situation properly and are mis-quoting and/or misunderstanding what you have been told, or someone is telling you something incorrect (possibly based on wrong or poorly-explained information), and the engine is completely lunched - it is now a lump of scrap metal - due to having been run without coolant at all for 20 minutes.
There is only one way you are going to find out the truth. Get the bike to someplace COMPETENT, and get them to properly diagnose what's wrong.
Don't jump to conclusions and don't try to diagnose it yourself - you will be wrong, you don't have enough experience to properly explain and understand. If you try to diagnose it over the internet, it will be based on incomplete or incorrect information (for the same underlying reason - you don't have enough experience to properly explain and understand) and will also be wrong. Garbage in, garbage out.
Known trustworthy local shops that I have personal experience with are Pro 6 Cycle and Z1 Cycletech. I would not give this to Rosey Toes. It's not that I have anything against that shop, but engine work on modern sport bikes are not their specialty. Pro 6 and Z1 Cycletech are roadracing shops that have A TON of experience with that type of bike.
If the collective suspicions of this forum are correct (in that you have lunched your engine by running it for 20 minutes without coolant, and it now won't start because it doesn't have any compression because either the head is cracked or the pistons and cylinders are all scored up and the rings are shot) it IS GOING to cost A LOT more than $1000 to pay someone else to straighten it out - this means buying another engine and paying shop labour rate to remove your engine and install the other one. You don't have the experience to do this yourself successfully ... I know this, because if you did, you wouldn't be asking the questions that you are asking, in the place that you are asking them!
Tough talking? Sure. Hard lesson? Absolutely. When all sorts of red warning lamps come on, or gauges on your instruments go out of bounds into the red zones, or fluid leaks out of your vehicle, STOP. Immediately. Shut the engine down and don't drive any further until you fix the problem properly. The tow will be less expensive than the repairs afterwards.
By the way, that generation of R1 engine is pretty near bulletproof ... but they won't survive running without essential fluids like coolant or engine oil.
Even swapping an engine, it's going to be more then a G dude, finding one wont be that hard but if you need a shop to do it, the time will add up quick.
I would go with Brian's option and take it to shop that does that type of work to make sure what's the real deal with it and go from there that way you don't get stuck with a wrong diagnostic that ends up costing you even more in the end cause someone didn't check it properly.
I hope you love that bike cause its not going to be as simple as changing the oil.
I would go with Brian's option and take it to shop that does that type of work to make sure what's the real deal with it and go from there that way you don't get stuck with a wrong diagnostic that ends up costing you even more in the end cause someone didn't check it properly.
I hope you love that bike cause its not going to be as simple as changing the oil.
yeah man money is no option.
will be purchasing 11,000KM 2001 R1 engine. thanks everybody for the help see you next season!
+ plan on doing a few more things to the bike before next season so ill keep posted
yeah man money is no option.
will be purchasing 11,000KM 2001 R1 engine. thanks everybody for the help see you next season!
+ plan on doing a few more things to the bike before next season so ill keep posted
That's awesome, looks like your on it like white on rice lol
Good luck man, takes some pics and stuff if you demo it yourself, makes for cool stories
yeah man i have done a few things already, and whats so funny?
I was asking for the coolant leak and the pics of the engine. Not of a modded bike
I was thinking, are those the D208's or Qualifiers, lol
silverbullet132
Well-known member
Rear looks like a d208, front doesn't
To the OP: Check the date codes on your tires, any older then 5 years and they should be replaced. Bridgestone S20's are really sweet tires for any sporty bike.
Front and rear look like D207's. Last time I rode on those was June of 2000.
As far as replacement tires, I am going to suggest, again, as I always do to anyone street riding and not doing trackdays, buy sport touring tires. They last twice as long as sport rubber, and offer 80% of the grip, and function better at cold temps as well.
This bike is being ridden by someone reasonably new to riding I suspect, and MotGP levels of grip are unneccessary anyways.
Michelin Pilot Road 2 or 3
Bridgestone 023
Continental Road Attack
Pirelli Angel ST
Avon Storm
Dunlop Roadsmart
....all awesome tires that offer knee dragging grip levels, work great in wet and cold, and last 10-20,000 kms.
As far as replacement tires, I am going to suggest, again, as I always do to anyone street riding and not doing trackdays, buy sport touring tires. They last twice as long as sport rubber, and offer 80% of the grip, and function better at cold temps as well.
This bike is being ridden by someone reasonably new to riding I suspect, and MotGP levels of grip are unneccessary anyways.
Michelin Pilot Road 2 or 3
Bridgestone 023
Continental Road Attack
Pirelli Angel ST
Avon Storm
Dunlop Roadsmart
....all awesome tires that offer knee dragging grip levels, work great in wet and cold, and last 10-20,000 kms.
killerkeith
Well-known member
Will OP be removing said engine himself? Should make for another great thread.
If you need to tow it to a shop you can rent a trailer from uhaul for $15 for 24 hours. Just find a friend or someone with a vehicle that has a trailer hitch (even honda civic can tow it) and you're golden.
http://www.uhaul.com/Reservations/EquipmentDetail.aspx?model=MT
I'm speaking about either towing it to a shop for the engine replacement, or for a quote on repair.
-Jamie M.
http://www.uhaul.com/Reservations/EquipmentDetail.aspx?model=MT
I'm speaking about either towing it to a shop for the engine replacement, or for a quote on repair.
-Jamie M.
I was asking for the coolant leak and the pics of the engine. Not of a modded bike
haha sorry yeah the engine is still in the bike until tomorrow xD
and your telling me my tires are 12 years old? :S
also my back rim is a little fatter then most, ? or am i wrong?
Look on the side of your tire for a 4 digit number, The first 2 numbers are the week and the last 2 are the year (I believe).
I would assume your back tire is standard (190) for a 1000cc and 10mm wider then a 600cc.
