Relax
Well-known member
Exactly how it should be - just like the filter (that's actually under pressure). Who ever thought it was a good idea to seal a liquid drain with a crush washer instead of an o-ring?
#$%@ GP Bikes just made my life harder
- Thread starter Shaman
- Start date
Exactly how it should be - just like the filter (that's actually under pressure). Who ever thought it was a good idea to seal a liquid drain with a crush washer instead of an o-ring?
Relax
Well-known member
No need to panic. A bolt extractor socket and a long lever will have no trouble with that. I've had success with these on several occasions. Get 'em at Canadian Tire, Princess Auto, Amazon, etc.
Good luck.
I got a similar set from Princess Auto and was only able to remove one wheel lock nut from my friend's car when he lost the key. The teeth got dull after the first use and became ineffective. Don't know if it was from the chrome lock nut or cheap steel, but the design works.
I have had a fumoto valve on my car and motorcycle for 9 years and 7 years and love it
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This is pretty cool! Wish you'd never shown it to me hahaha
Relax
Well-known member
That bolt is part of a screen assembly, so you can't just replace it with a valve.
That said, I had a couple of Fumoto's when there were no other options. I didn't like how stiff the lever could get when road grime caked it up, plus having to use the separate locking spring to ensure it didn't accidentally pop open (which wouldn't have been probable, but you can never be too careful). Now I'm using Stahlbus valves and love them - just unscrew the safety cap, and push in the quarter turn spigot. I also have one on my SXV oil tank, where draining it from the stock bolt gets oil all over the rad hose, front header, and into the bash plate.
Shaman
Well-known member
Thanks for all the suggestions. I"m not sure how to proceed but I'll change what oil I can in it right now.
I can say for sure that GP Bikes isn't going to be doing many more oil changes for me. Like I said, I had about 100ft/lb on that thing and it didn't budge, just ripped off the edges, similar to the effort I need to take lug nuts off my diesel truck. That's crazy! The front screen bolt, I'd bet on 45lbs or more, it took me using a 1/2" drive & socket wrench because the handle is longer by about two inches, and I needed that to get it off. FFS. I can understand not always using a torque wrench but I don't understand just cranking until you run out of arm.
And yes you are correct, they're both quite long and have screens on the end of them. Time to order up from KTMParts, they'll have it here post haste.
I can say for sure that GP Bikes isn't going to be doing many more oil changes for me. Like I said, I had about 100ft/lb on that thing and it didn't budge, just ripped off the edges, similar to the effort I need to take lug nuts off my diesel truck. That's crazy! The front screen bolt, I'd bet on 45lbs or more, it took me using a 1/2" drive & socket wrench because the handle is longer by about two inches, and I needed that to get it off. FFS. I can understand not always using a torque wrench but I don't understand just cranking until you run out of arm.
And yes you are correct, they're both quite long and have screens on the end of them. Time to order up from KTMParts, they'll have it here post haste.
There’s one similar on Amazon that’s popular with the F150 crowd. I was going to buy one but with only doing oil changes annually I just get the dealer to do it.
I like the idea of the wired heat thing, combined with the bolt grabber socket, but I think I'd look for better quality that CTC or Princess Auto. I've busted off a couple CTC bolt removers so I won't trust them again.
I wonder if the tech used thread-lock on it? Just to compound the stupidity.
I think this is the result of the lack of qualified graduates for this kind of work combined with a really busy shop that's getting busier. I've had a couple of dissatisfying (for lack of a better word) service dept. experiences at GP where I think the minor job was fluffed off on a low experience guy who just didn't know any better. I've had it with my truck too.
I wonder if the tech used thread-lock on it? Just to compound the stupidity.
I think this is the result of the lack of qualified graduates for this kind of work combined with a really busy shop that's getting busier. I've had a couple of dissatisfying (for lack of a better word) service dept. experiences at GP where I think the minor job was fluffed off on a low experience guy who just didn't know any better. I've had it with my truck too.
Shaman
Well-known member
Two different socket wrenches and then a breaker bar, as I said. It didn't budge and I had enough torque on it to do that to the bolt head.
Tight 6 point socket and impact wrench guaranteed it will come out
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Maybe before. Now it looks like he has a cylinder for the socket to grab on to.
They are great. I am not convinced about much of the pricing. There is some copper in them but they are pretty simple. Many hover around $300+ which seems steep. Most are 100-200 if you buy from China. Still seems steep but probably the cheapest path for most people to cherry red (shaman should not go to colour but for lots of bolts that is the path).For some reason I've been seeing ads for Induction Heaters, apparently you can buy a tool with a coil that surrounds the bolt head.
Edit:
As expected, you can buy the induction coil and electronics for ~$30 with no case and no power supply. Most of the money is to get the convenient packaging with everything in one reasonably safe enclosure.
I'd love to have one, but my current bike has not 1, not 2...but 3 different oil drain points, and Yamaha, in their infinite wisdom, put 2 of the drains at the same level as and facing the frame, meaning you can only put a wrench on them blindly, mostly by feel. And it should really be a stubby wrench because a full size wrench might not even fit. Then you get oil all over yourself and the frame when the oil starts to flow, and sometimes for good measure, you fumble at least 1 of those 2 drain plugs into the drain pan which is now almost overflowing since this bike holds so much damn oil. So you have to go fishing in there to find it.
Anyhow, yeah, I sure wish I had a single fumoto lol.
Dry sump or just chaos? If you had a klr, you could just turn it over to get the oil out.
Yeah, dry sump engine. So you have to drain the oil reservoir first which is actually quite easy - nice 15mm bolt in an easy to access spot, but the other 2 bolts are in the sump to drain out a few low spots I guess. They're oddly close together but both seem to dump quite a bit of oil, so it must be a divided cover somehow in there. You also basically can't see them at all, so I use a stubby box end ratchet wrench, get it on the bolt by braile, and once they're broken loose then you have to take the wrench off and thread them out by finger - if you left a box end wrench on and used it to thread them out I think you'd run out of space since the frame is right there.
You also have to put the front wheel up on blocks otherwise you can't even get the drain pan under the bike much less a wrench.
Then there's the refill procedure - 3.8L or something like that goes into the oil tank fill port (which you need to remove the seat to get to), and then around 2L goes into the crankcase fill port.
Hey, at least the oil filter is really easy to get at lol.
