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Goddamn brake lines... I need help.
- Thread starter Corsara
- Start date
Whenever you have aftermarket components that move the location of masters and banjo bolt locations, you should always order custom lines. Its rare to have stock lines fit after changes like that are made, and even if you can make them fit you will likely bend and stress the lines...
I order a lot of custom lines from Speigler, I really like the quality and options they offer, and they make them really fast....There are tons of other good custom lines but I really like Speigler, have them on all of my bikes...
Here is the latest one they made for me custom to my specs to fit my supermoto
It's not I run superbike style on my sport bikes where the lines run in front of the forks to the caliper not around the back
If I route them behind the forks, do I need to clamp them? If yes, any ideas about fabricating / buying clamps to put on my new fender?
Since I'll probably end up ordering custom lines, I have the freedom to choose now. Are there any advantages running them in front?
I like the Kawasaki mounts, they are plastic and use a hole to mount them and are easily removable. You just push them and they click into the hole, and they also rotate so they just work really nice...
I like the in front of fork mount because it makes working on the bike easier, when I take off the calipers I can zip tie them to my front stand out of the way and not dangling together behind the wheel like they usually do with regular behind the fork routing...
It's not necessary to clamp them but make sure the brake lines don't rub against the forks or the fender when the suspension moves. If a brake line comes close to touching, or if it rubs as the suspension moves, it's better to clamp it solidly at that location (with a piece of plastic or rubber or whatnot clamped between the brake line and whatever it's touching) or reroute it so that it's not touching.
That braided-steel material will rub through just about anything, given enough time. Yes, most newer SS brake lines have a covering on top of the braiding. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks Brian, this is really helpful.
I tried again to fit the lines I have. I rotated the banjo fittings so that there is no flex whatsoever. But I still have some concerns. Here are a few photos that I annotated, do you see any problems?
Brian, do you think I should clamp this (first pic)? Feels like clamping it to the fender will restrict it's expansion to the sides under suspension load?
E-mail Robert Jenson at Spiegler rjensen@spieglerusa.com ,with your setup and pics.He's a great guy(and fast as fook)and should be able help you.Many things to watch out for installing your own lines,safely.
Oh,i think i have some stock bars for your bike.Not sure if they're straight or not
but yours if you want em.Free.
Oh,i think i have some stock bars for your bike.Not sure if they're straight or not
but yours if you want em.Free.
I'm running apex lines on my rear brakes, its been 2yrs
Sent from my tablet using my paws
E-mail Robert Jenson at Spiegler rjensen@spieglerusa.com ,with your setup and pics.He's a great guy(and fast as fook)and should be able help you.Many things to watch out for installing your own lines,safely.
Oh,i think i have some stock bars for your bike.Not sure if they're straight or not
Thanks, I just emailed Robert.
For the stock bars---thanks, lol! I'll take them! Will PM you now.
Yesterday I got my modified brake lines back from Spiegler (I had the fittings replaced, also the left line shortened a bit). So I installed them and I'm satisfied. I also secured both lines to the bottom tripple via a metal clamp and grommets on each line.
The only thing I'm not happy with is that the right line kind of touches and lightly rubs the fork leg. How critical is this? It's not happening because of lack of slack, but rather the angle the line is coming at from the caliper.
Oh, and also---anyone know what torque is required on the master cylinder double banjo (I have specs for the OEM, but this is a double Brembo banjo bolt, so I assume it's different)?
The only thing I'm not happy with is that the right line kind of touches and lightly rubs the fork leg. How critical is this? It's not happening because of lack of slack, but rather the angle the line is coming at from the caliper.
Oh, and also---anyone know what torque is required on the master cylinder double banjo (I have specs for the OEM, but this is a double Brembo banjo bolt, so I assume it's different)?
Glad you're making progress!!! You going to make it to TMP on April 7th?!?! I'll have to lay a beat down on ya with my new suspension setup I did swap out my sprockets for slightly taller gearing, but maybe the lighter chain and sprockets will make up for it
-Jamie M.
I did swap out my sprockets for slightly taller gearing, but maybe the lighter chain and sprockets will make up for it
-Jamie M.
Glad you're making progress!!! You going to make it to TMP on April 7th?!?! I'll have to lay a beat down on ya with my new suspension setup
-Jamie M.
Nope for April 7, not a chance---my folks are visiting from europe and arriving on that same day. Besides, bike won't be ready. I'm thinking Thursday, May 2nd, as my first track of the year...although at that time I'll still probably have unpainted bodywork, which is not important. I remember last year you had something like -2/+3 gearing or something like that? I'll be on -1/+3 which is taller, still people are warning me. When too many people warn me, I start getting nervous, lol
Hope to see ya on May 2nd! Be safe April 7th, it will be still cold.
nope for april 7, not a chance---my folks are visiting from europe and arriving on that same day. Besides, bike won't be ready. I'm thinking thursday, may 2nd, as my first track of the year...although at that time i'll still probably have unpainted bodywork, which is not important. I remember last year you had something like -2/+3 gearing or something like that? I'll be on -1/+3 which is taller, still people are warning me. When too many people warn me, i start getting nervous, lol
hope to see ya on may 2nd! Be safe april 7th, it will be still cold.
lame :d
Aww damn, that sucks
I was on -2/+1 530 last year (courtesy of the previous owner of the bike). I really wanted to break 300kph because people keep saying my R1 can never do it, so I needed slightly taller gearing. With my previous gearing my top speed was 292kph (GPS). With my new gearing (-1/+2 520) my theoretical top speed is now 305KPH. It pulled hard right to the rev limiter/292kph before, I can't see it being that much harder for it to get to 305!!!
Schmexy!!!
I had a hard time keeping the front down at TMP before anyway, so the slightly taller gearing should help (along with my new linear fly by wire throttle map).
You're doing it wrong. The more warnings you get, the harder you pushWhen too many people warn me, I start getting nervous, lol
Sounds good, see ya there on the 2nd hopefully!!! I'll be careful, but I have my bike decked out with (cheap china) GoPro's so we should have some good footage if I crash
-Jamie M.
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Yeah I know very well I won't regret if he paints it. It's a long story covered in another thread in the past, but I wanted to just do a pocket money tremclad job myself for now---I'm pretty damn sure the bike will kiss the ground this season.
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