Garage Doors | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Garage Doors

Garaga 20+ Years old, never a problem other than the bottom seal shrinking back a tad on the ends (Mouse entry point, since corrected.) Insulated, a good investment since I later did the walls. At the same time B&M doors installed a pro 1/2 HP Lift-Master opener. The pro ones have a one piece track where the retail ones are multi-piece so they can be transported in the soccer van. Remote opener of course.

I picked up opening width but lost a few inches overhead going from a one piece swing out. No issues with my 1997 Astro van but fortunately I discovered before it was too late, a 2004 Safari sits higher. It wouldn't go in unless the heavy tools were in the back.
 
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AllistonGT said:
If possible, go aluminum. I went steel because Garaga has more available colours in steel than aluminum. Something else to consider. My door faces west and has now faded considerably. If you want a darker colour and your house faces south or west, it will fade. After almost 20 years I will be replacing mine soon.
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Excellent advice, thank you. My garage doors are 12 years old, composite and bubbling. They're likely roasted from the sun as they face directly south. Most of the doors out there are galvanized steel...wonder why they don't use aluminium more? It's lighter. Likely retains less heat. Just not as strong.
 
MotoX said:
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Excellent advice, thank you. My garage doors are 12 years old, composite and bubbling. They're likely roasted from the sun as they face directly south. Most of the doors out there are galvanized steel...wonder why they don't use aluminium more? It's lighter. Likely retains less heat. Just not as strong.
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Steel is stronger and less expensive.

Sent from the future
 
MotoX said:
E

Excellent advice, thank you. My garage doors are 12 years old, composite and bubbling. They're likely roasted from the sun as they face directly south. Most of the doors out there are galvanized steel...wonder why they don't use aluminium more? It's lighter. Likely retains less heat. Just not as strong.
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My steel doors are in far better condion than the aluminum cladding I put on the jambs. The bottom inch or two of the jambs is unpretty. It wasn't light weight material either, 16 ga baked on enamel both sides, custom bent.
 
Think I'll spray some Krown rust control along the bottom of my next steel door.
 
R13 9’ Copley steel from Home Depot. Got mine for $500 each 3 years ago. They go on “Special Buy” occasionally for $500 or so. Add another $100/door for good seals.

Not bad, if I did it again I’d get a torsion spring instead of side springs.

Did my son’s single12’ this spring, same door, it was $900.
 
MotoX said:
Mine are ten years old, composite, which means they're bubbling and not able to sand and paint. What's are you all replacing your garage doors with? What has the best/longest shelf life for our Canadian weather and keeps the garage reasonably warm in the winter?

Quotes are $3200 for two. It's a shame to have to spend so much money on something without a motor :)
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That's a pretty good quote. I just got a quote of $5,109.27 (+tax) in June to replace our 14' x 7' door (one and a half car garage).

We decided to keep our current door for the time being. BTW, the current door is an insulated steel door and the bottom of the panel that touches the garage floor is rusting. I got a can of Tremclad and painted the bottom 3". With a replacement cost of $5200+ I'll keep doing this until the panel rusts completely through.
 
Malks said:
That's a pretty good quote. I just got a quote of $5,109.27 (+tax) in June to replace our 14' x 7' door (one and a half car garage).

We decided to keep our current door for the time being. BTW, the current door is an insulated steel door and the bottom of the panel that touches the garage floor is rusting. I got a can of Tremclad and painted the bottom 3". With a replacement cost of $5200+ I'll keep doing this until the panel rusts completely through.
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Garage door prices can be all over the place. My condo corp replaced 40 doors with traditional MDF doors. Quotes came in for the same Barmac door from $800/door to $2500/door.

Replacing a garage door panels is an easy diy if the existing track and winder is in good shape. It takes about 2 hours. You’ll need a hand for doors bigger than 9’ wide.
 
Mad Mike said:
Garage door prices can be all over the place. My condo corp replaced 40 doors with traditional MDF doors. Quotes came in for the same Barmac door from $800/door to $2500/door.

Replacing a garage door panels is an easy diy if the existing track and winder is in good shape. It takes about 2 hours. You’ll need a hand for doors bigger than 9’ wide.
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I would be more than happy to just replace the bottom panel. Unfortunately they have faded so much, one new panel would not match the other three.
 
GreyGhost said:
I think he was talking about replacing all the panels. The tricky part of the install is track setup. Panel replacement is almost plug and play.
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My guess is that replacing all the panels is probably close to the cost of an all new door. Small saving on the install but it's a one man job for one day for a completely new door. 16/ft. So save what, 2 - 3 hours?
 
Mad Mike said:
Garage door prices can be all over the place. My condo corp replaced 40 doors with traditional MDF doors. Quotes came in for the same Barmac door from $800/door to $2500/door.

Replacing a garage door panels is an easy diy if the existing track and winder is in good shape. It takes about 2 hours. You’ll need a hand for doors bigger than 9’ wide.
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About 15 years ago had to take apart the wooden double garage door on a previous house because the spring broke while both cars were inside. That door was heavy AF but I was able to disassemble and reassemble it by myself without too much trouble. The fun part was replacing the broken spring. This door actually had two springs to lift it because of the weight. Most shops wouldn't sell me the spring because they claimed it was too dangerous to replace. I ended up replacing the springs on that door a few times before we finally replaced the door with a new steel door about 7 years ago. Our recent quote to replace the door on our current home was from the same door contractor that did the work for us before. I might just go and get a price for a 14' door at HD and consider doing the job myself.
 
Malks said:
About 15 years ago had to take apart the wooden double garage door on a previous house because the spring broke while both cars were inside. That door was heavy AF but I was able to disassemble and reassemble it by myself without too much trouble. The fun part was replacing the broken spring. This door actually had two springs to lift it because of the weight. Most shops wouldn't sell me the spring because they claimed it was too dangerous to replace. I ended up replacing the springs on that door a few times before we finally replaced the door with a new steel door about 7 years ago. Our recent quote to replace the door on our current home was from the same door contractor that did the work for us before. I might just go and get a price for a 14' door at HD and consider doing the job myself.
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My old house had a similar garage door and no man door. When the spring would break (happened a couple times), the hardest part was getting it up the first inch (especially with most tools trapped in garage). After that, garage jack to get enough height to get hydraulic jack out, hydraulic jack as high as it goes, add some wood to get it about 8" more and then it was possible to lift with a lot of effort.
 
Malks said:
About 15 years ago had to take apart the wooden double garage door on a previous house because the spring broke while both cars were inside. That door was heavy AF but I was able to disassemble and reassemble it by myself without too much trouble. The fun part was replacing the broken spring. This door actually had two springs to lift it because of the weight. Most shops wouldn't sell me the spring because they claimed it was too dangerous to replace. I ended up replacing the springs on that door a few times before we finally replaced the door with a new steel door about 7 years ago. Our recent quote to replace the door on our current home was from the same door contractor that did the work for us before. I might just go and get a price for a 14' door at HD and consider doing the job myself.
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My brother was trying to stretch one of those side springs into place when it broke. The coils were apart. His finger meat was between the coils. Snap. Blood blisters on every finger.

I wasn't there to hear the comments. Echoes may still be resonating in the Midhurst area.
 
nobbie48 said:
My brother was trying to stretch one of those side springs into place when it broke. The coils were apart. His finger meat was between the coils. Snap. Blood blisters on every finger.

I wasn't there to hear the comments. Echoes may still be resonating in the Midhurst area.
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I wouldn't mess with the side spring type. My old door had the overhead style springs that are around the pipe that attaches to the pulley and cables. When those springs break they don't go anywhere because the pipe keeps them in place. The danger is when you are winding the tension up or down.
 
Mine are fibreglass with aluminum frames. I'd guess they are 30+ years old, but I inherited them, so I can't be sure. The only issue I've had in my 5+ years here is the chain on the motor has come off once, and the bracket that holds the chain has broken. I used a welder and junk-drawer finds to fix it.
I would recommend fibreglass for durability, but I would prefer something insulated. I might pickup some kind of kit to insulate it.
Also, I suspect a thief could easily kick a hole through it, but it would be very loud. I'm thinking of insulating it and using aluminum flat bar to hold the insulation in place, which would also act as guards to prevent thieves from squeezing through a kicked-in hole.

My dad has a NICE garage with, I think, a 12x10 door . It's insulated aluminum, 30 years old, and still as good as new.
 
WestBrantKid said:
Mine are fibreglass with aluminum frames. I'd guess they are 30+ years old, but I inherited them, so I can't be sure. The only issue I've had in my 5+ years here is the chain on the motor has come off once, and the bracket that holds the chain has broken. I used a welder and junk-drawer finds to fix it.
I would recommend fibreglass for durability, but I would prefer something insulated. I might pickup some kind of kit to insulate it.
Also, I suspect a thief could easily kick a hole through it, but it would be very loud. I'm thinking of insulating it and using aluminum flat bar to hold the insulation in place, which would also act as guards to prevent thieves from squeezing through a kicked-in hole.

My dad has a NICE garage with, I think, a 12x10 door . It's insulated aluminum, 30 years old, and still as good as new.
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If you try to insulate, pay close attention to the details as they make or break the project. It isnt hard to insulate the centre of each panel but the parts you miss by doing just that mean you don't gain much insulation. Try to come up with a system that has minimal gaps in the insulation.
 
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Malks said:
That's a pretty good quote. I just got a quote of $5,109.27 (+tax) in June to replace our 14' x 7' door (one and a half car garage).

We decided to keep our current door for the time being. BTW, the current door is an insulated steel door and the bottom of the panel that touches the garage floor is rusting. I got a can of Tremclad and painted the bottom 3". With a replacement cost of $5200+ I'll keep doing this until the panel rusts completely through.
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Where was this quote from? All Mont?
 
Just as another reference point, a family member in Toronto had a one piece door that broke a spring. The door company she uses suggested a new panel door as the old one was well over 30 years old. $1800 got her a new single bay door installed and connected to her existing opener. I haven't seen it but I assume uninsulated as it is an older uninsulated detached garage.
 
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