Mad Mike
Well-known member
I insulated my old steel door with EPS. You can cut it with a carving knife to fit into the recesses of each panel. A bead of low expansion foam locks it in place. Costs about $75 for an 8’ door.
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Garage Doors
- Thread starter MotoX
- Start date
Malks
Well-known member
Yes. Apparently their prices have increased over the past few years.
I wouldnt want exposed foam, especially in a garage. I would put a layer of something over it to protect it from fire/sparks. The fumes are no joke if you get it burning.
I'll look into. Thanks! Seems cheap, though. I don't think I can walk into a Home Depot anymore without leaving an arm and a leg behind.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Today's EPS and XPS are more flame retardant than the open wood framing in a garage or the MDF or wooden panneled in a wood door. You could cover it with masonite if you were worried about damage. I don't think that would even be necessary -- anything that hits the back of a tin door will leave an uglier mark on the outside.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
As I've already stated, my garage door is rusting at the bottom corners. My door is a high lift as I have a car lift inside. Thinking if I can get someone to swap the bottom panel with one of the 2 panels that are above, out of sight, then that deals with the rust issue. Now I'm left with a bottom panel that hasn't faded like the rest. House faces west and they have faded considerably. Now I'd have to paint the door. Anyone done this with success?
Not excited spending $5-6000 to replace the whole door (or 4 panels) because corners are rusting. I've already replaced the spring with a much higher cycle rate one a few years ago and replaced some of the rollers at the same time.
Not excited spending $5-6000 to replace the whole door (or 4 panels) because corners are rusting. I've already replaced the spring with a much higher cycle rate one a few years ago and replaced some of the rollers at the same time.
How high does the rust go? Aluminum U or L may be the simplest solution. It would look fine silver but you could paint it if you wanted. It's OK if match isn't perfect as it looks like trim not a patch.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
Interesting idea. I'd be concerned with rust still spreading beneath with moisture now being trapped. I will give it some thought.
Cut the cancer out, rustoleum or oxide primer on the cut, cap with extruded aluminum profile, caulk the top edge to minimize water draining into aluminum.
Friend now retired owned a commercial roll up door company in Malton , did mall store doors , rental unit doors , garage doors , you name it . He sold me a door at his cost , wow . The door sales guys make a good margin .
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As I stated earlier, I have very old wooden doors, I have a small area that is rotten right through on one panel (Maybe 2x2 inches), budget does not allow replacement this year, but I want to replace the seals, hardware (Rollers) and patch the rotten patch and repaint, would Bondo be the easiest method? again, I only want to keep these doors another year or two so keeping my costs in check.
I've done a similar repair before in bondo. Put some screws in left long to give bondo something to grab. You'll need quite a few layers as it doesn't like being laid on an inch thick.
I worked for a diesel engine importer. If you wanted one for your boat your price would be around $10K. Our landed cost would have been about $600. Jobber, wholesale, dealer, OEM, trade and retail all got prices bumped. OEM was the best deal.
I was interested in a Smiths tachometer which was about $75 retail at the time. Since the company was listed as an OEM I could get it for $15.
Missed opportunity:
I was ready to go for a tour to the states as soon as I did my year end paperwork and my printer died. The quick replacement wouldn't talk to my computer, returned it. Went to Staples to see what they had an there was a skid of printers being cleared for $20 each. I bought one, it worked so bought one for my wife.
I should have bought the skid, ripped out the ink cartridges and sold them for 3 or 4 times the cost of the printer.
Still using the printer today. Start up sounds like a thrashing machine but it works.
Good point. Bondo an inch thick will get too hot and do screwy things.
Can the rotted part be roughly cleaned out, a backup piece screwed to the back, a roughly cut wood filler stuck to the backup piece and the Bondo sparingly used to dress the panel up?
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I wouldn't use regular Bondo, it absorbs moisture -- will crack in the cold and accelerate rotting after about a year. Short-strand fiberglass filler is
a better as it doesn't absorb water.
Other options is to get a couple of tubes of dollar store 5 minute epoxy and make a slurry of epoxy and sawdust.
Yes, that could be an option.
Thanks, I was unaware that bondo did this.
I like the epoxy idea as well.
To be fair, I have not really looked to deeply into what I'm able to do, was going to tackle this late summer when it is a bit cooler out.
Epoxy doesn't stick to plastic shipping tape so if you tape up a flat board and screw it down over the patch it'll pull off leaving a near perfect finish.
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