Just go to the bylaw at http://www6.mississauga.ca/onlinemaps/planbldg/ZoneBylaw/DZBR1/Part 4 - General Provisions.pdf Section 4.1.11
Fence/Fence by-law questions, Mississauga.
- Thread starter Motorcycle Mike
- Start date
Just go to the bylaw at http://www6.mississauga.ca/onlinemaps/planbldg/ZoneBylaw/DZBR1/Part 4 - General Provisions.pdf Section 4.1.11
GateKeeper
Well-known member
hopefully it's a skinny trailer....
Hey look another reba approval, jury is still out on the last one... more data required.
Motorcycle Mike
Well-known member
Yeah, the 1.2m from the property line might be hard to achieve but I think I am just within tolerance.
Adding a side fence means I can take out the fence that separates the sideyard from the backyard, and once I redesign my deck then I will have easy access to the backyard. The distance from my back corner to the fence is 7', so my 4' x 8' trailer (plus wheels) will pass through.
The distance from my wall just behind the electrical meter to the property line is 10.5', so subtracting the 1.2m (4') still leaves me with 6.5' for the trailer... so very close, but just enough space.
Also, the distance from where I would end the fence to that three-stem tree is 11', so easily enough space to have two doors open outwards as I figure I would have two 4' doors.
I think I'm going to start calling some fencing guys and see what sort of quotes I get. Any recommendations for the Mississauga area?
The house on the corner did their fence last year and used 6x6s instead of 4x4s, and it looks well made and very solid. I might knock on their door and to find out who did theirs.
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+1 for 6x6
Also, this is something that can be done with a couple guys, some pizza and beer.
Maybe just get someone to dig the holes and set the posts-- just make sure that they are going 48" down, wide enough holes and not watering the cement down.
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Also, this is something that can be done with a couple guys, some pizza and beer.
Maybe just get someone to dig the holes and set the posts-- just make sure that they are going 48" down, wide enough holes and not watering the cement down.
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You can rent a post hole digger, get the 1 person type vs the 2 person type, easier to use.
GateKeeper
Well-known member
Good guy for fence, I used him to replace a few posts that were leaning, he removed fence, old posts,concrete and all, then new posts put in new poured concrete,and fence reattached
Sylvio - 905-874-9119
hopefully he is still doing the work, by the way he does nothing but fencing..
Sylvio - 905-874-9119
hopefully he is still doing the work, by the way he does nothing but fencing..
LOL ... Good one ...
Motorcycle Mike
Well-known member
I was hoping for Portuguese, but Italian will do if no Dutch or German are available.
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If its wood and cement you want Portuguese or Italian. You do not want the Germans or the Dutch, there will be weeks of prototyping and engineering revisions and blueprints, then the testing. It will be very expensive.
The Japanese could do it but it will be a fraction of the size you thought it would be. The French will start late , complain about the food and probably organize a general strike in July.
The Japanese could do it but it will be a fraction of the size you thought it would be. The French will start late , complain about the food and probably organize a general strike in July.
Motorcycle Mike
Well-known member
I've never had fence work done before, so I have no idea what to expect for a price.
I know a lot of it depends on the material and design I want... but lets say a simple wooden fence with post holes dug and cemented, what am I looking at per linear foot? Any ideas?
I know a lot of it depends on the material and design I want... but lets say a simple wooden fence with post holes dug and cemented, what am I looking at per linear foot? Any ideas?
GateKeeper
Well-known member
HomeDepot has prefabbed sections, look at price, and add labor cost, should give you an idea, or price it out by material, most sections are done in 8 foot lengths, it's also going to depend on your post 4x4 or 6x6, from what I can see you don't have a huge run so it shouldn't be very hard to get an idea on price
I just had a 6-foot fence done with lattice in the top foot of the fence, 4x4 cemented posts, alternating board privacy fence, gate, brown pressure-treat, for $45 per foot tax-included, including removal of the old fence and digging the old fence posts and cement out of the ground. Started and finished in the week before Christmas, during their usual down-time period.
Holy crap! I remember when we were quoted $22 / ft years ago, thought it was too much, and did our own.
MM, if you will be going with 2- 4' gates (I think you said that), I would opt for the 6x6 posts. Also, get included with the quote bigger/ heavy duty hinges. And possibly wheels at the bottom of the gate. We built 2 5' w x 8' h gates at a buddy's property. We did all that, plus a 2x6 across the top, and aircraft cable to keep it from sagging. Still strong after 10 years.
Motorcycle Mike
Well-known member
Bump to ask a question about a gate. Joe Bass, if your brother comes back with an answer, please post.
Here is the area in question:
I am planning to build a side yard fence in order to make better use of the space and to keep my small utility trailer. I also need to clean up this area, especially around the AC unit (which we never use anyway and needs replacing).
So the front part of this fence will span 10.5' and within that space I want to have either two 4' gates or one 7' to 8' gate that swings out so I can put my trailer in there.
The left side is not an issue. I can install a solid corner post, 6x6, 4' deep in concrete, etc..
The right side is the issue. The fence will meet the house between the electrical meter and the vent. Underneath the ground here (red lines) are some utilities (gas line), so I cannot put in a post. My plan is to use lag bolts to secure the fence to house, however I cannot make the hinge point at the house because when the gate swings in it will hit the meter. I could possibly make this a latch point, especially if I use long enough lags to secure a 4x4 or 6x6 to the wall.
Ideally the hinge point (if a double gate) or latch point (if single gate) would be about 2' from the wall so it misses the meter, however I cannot put a post in that location -- so how do I make a solid hinge or latch point here?
Any ideas?
Here is the area in question:
I am planning to build a side yard fence in order to make better use of the space and to keep my small utility trailer. I also need to clean up this area, especially around the AC unit (which we never use anyway and needs replacing).
So the front part of this fence will span 10.5' and within that space I want to have either two 4' gates or one 7' to 8' gate that swings out so I can put my trailer in there.
The left side is not an issue. I can install a solid corner post, 6x6, 4' deep in concrete, etc..
The right side is the issue. The fence will meet the house between the electrical meter and the vent. Underneath the ground here (red lines) are some utilities (gas line), so I cannot put in a post. My plan is to use lag bolts to secure the fence to house, however I cannot make the hinge point at the house because when the gate swings in it will hit the meter. I could possibly make this a latch point, especially if I use long enough lags to secure a 4x4 or 6x6 to the wall.
Ideally the hinge point (if a double gate) or latch point (if single gate) would be about 2' from the wall so it misses the meter, however I cannot put a post in that location -- so how do I make a solid hinge or latch point here?
Any ideas?
