Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 69 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

My garage needs some TLC but I did change the lights in there recently to some Costco Artika flat panel LCD lights and the things are awesome. We have since bought 4 more for the rest of the house. They are so thin and sit close to the ceiling that they just look like skylights. Easy to fit too and dimmable if you need them to be.
 
So..I’m thinking about replacing my 16 year old Rubbermaid 7x7ft shed with an 8x10ft Costco Lifetime brand one. I didn’t put a base in for the Rubbermaid and it did ok ish but for the new one I'd like to put a nice level foundation in. Has anyone used the plastic grid foundation that you fill with gravel? That looks like a nice inexpensive way to get a reasonably solid level foundation with some drainage underneath the shed too. I don’t want to put a concrete pad in as that’s way too much work and putting a lumber foundation in looks like it would be pretty pricey this year.

The Costco shed comes with a floor kit and all reviews state that assembly is vastly easier with a solid level foundation.
 
any shed you assemble will be easier on a flat level foundation, lumber prices are stupid, but its a shed floor not a bungalow . I would not be afraid.
Those plastic floors with the gravel infill I hear work well , I just hate the idea a moving 300Lbs of gravel, and being a wood guy I could whack together a base in about a morning , with two coffee breaks.
 
any shed you assemble will be easier on a flat level foundation, lumber prices are stupid, but its a shed floor not a bungalow . I would not be afraid.
Those plastic floors with the gravel infill I hear work well , I just hate the idea a moving 300Lbs of gravel, and being a wood guy I could whack together a base in about a morning , with two coffee breaks.

I'd either have to use deckblox or sink posts in concrete to get a decent lumber foundation I think. The deckblox would raise the shed up too much and the concrete is a pain in the ass. I can get the gravel delivered and pay some local kids to shift the gravel to the right area. I just liked the idea of the plastic grid stuff and it looks like it should work but if it’s useless I’ll work with something else.
 
I'd either have to use deckblox or sink posts in concrete to get a decent lumber foundation I think. The deckblox would raise the shed up too much and the concrete is a pain in the ass. I can get the gravel delivered and pay some local kids to shift the gravel to the right area. I just liked the idea of the plastic grid stuff and it looks like it should work but if it’s useless I’ll work with something else.
25 years ago I put in a concrete slab and built a wood framed shed. I've never regretted it but concrete isn't cheap.

The thing I like about wood is that if you need to hang something you just hammer in a nail or drive in a couple of screws to put up a shelf.

A new roof is planned for the summer as the shingles are on their last legs
 
25 years ago I put in a concrete slab and built a wood framed shed. I've never regretted it but concrete isn't cheap.

The thing I like about wood is that if you need to hang something you just hammer in a nail or drive in a couple of screws to put up a shelf.

A new roof is planned for the summer as the shingles are on their last legs
I like how my friend built his shed. Concrete floor and bottom 24" of walls is concrete. Wood framing above. Keeps the wood up from most water/weed whacker damage. A little bit easier to make it mouse tight. Obviously one of the more expensive and permanent ways to make a garden shed though.
 
I like how my friend built his shed. Concrete floor and bottom 24" of walls is concrete. Wood framing above. Keeps the wood up from most water/weed whacker damage. A little bit easier to make it mouse tight. Obviously one of the more expensive and permanent ways to make a garden shed though.
I like it. If I was doing it again and had the time that I now have I would have gone with 24" of brick or artificial stone and board and batten above. A slate roof would be nice too.
 
Did a shed two years ago in friends yard, used those heli coil deck supports , I had 48" pipe clamps which made an 8ft T handle to wind them in. Before that on another shed the post was close to a fence so no swing room, we used those giant wedge shaped deck posts , started with a sledge hammer and rented a home depot jack hammer do put them down .
Keeps wood floor off the ground a bit and allows air circulation.

I am extremely allergic to wheelbarrows , I break out in a sweat at the thought
 
Did a shed two years ago in friends yard, used those heli coil deck supports , I had 48" pipe clamps which made an 8ft T handle to wind them in. Before that on another shed the post was close to a fence so no swing room, we used those giant wedge shaped deck posts , started with a sledge hammer and rented a home depot jack hammer do put them down .
Keeps wood floor off the ground a bit and allows air circulation.

I am extremely allergic to wheelbarrows , I break out in a sweat at the thought
How are the supports holding up? The marketing around them is a steaming pile of *^*% so I generally refuse to use them as bad behaviour should not be rewarded. The theory is sound but in order to make them look better, they state the load values for the rare instance where the anchor sits on bedrock as the design value instead of the much much more common earth/till/clay.
 
How are the supports holding up? The marketing around them is a steaming pile of *^*% so I generally refuse to use them as bad behaviour should not be rewarded. The theory is sound but in order to make them look better, they state the load values for the rare instance where the anchor sits on bedrock as the design value instead of the much much more common earth/till/clay.
A friend used then a few years ago for an addition to his house. IIRC it was for some interior support points. The house is still standing.

Another subject:

I got a price for a small waterproofing job on the house and it wasn't bad considering the working conditions, $5,000. However that was cash.

While saving the $650 HST is nice the HST on small jobs is another case of the government shooting itself in the foot. The contractor isn't cutting is price. He's cutting the government out of the picture.

For me the $650 means no warranty because the job didn't exist. If someone gets hurt they're my employee and can sue. It's a bit back breaking but I figure for two weeks and a few hundred dollars it might be worth it.
 
I don’t look forward to putting waterproofing around my house...my brain hurts thinking about the amount of money that will be.

Neighbour did it by hand....100m and about 5ft down.
 
I don’t look forward to putting waterproofing around my house...my brain hurts thinking about the amount of money that will be.

Neighbour did it by hand....100m and about 5ft down.

Mine has mostly been done but about 20 feet under the deck hasn't. I figure six feet to the bottom of the footings.

Working under the deck would be insane but if I remove the decking, the joists are 24" O/C and it might be doable. I'm kicking around some ideas on getting the dirt back from the excavation. Anyone know where I can get a deal on a couple of dozen toboggans? Milk crates, about a cubic foot each. 300 or 400 should do.

About 10 cubic yards compacted expands to???? Where are my college estimating books.

How long did it take your neighbour? Is he bored???
 
Mine has mostly been done but about 20 feet under the deck hasn't. I figure six feet to the bottom of the footings.

Working under the deck would be insane but if I remove the decking, the joists are 24" O/C and it might be doable. I'm kicking around some ideas on getting the dirt back from the excavation. Anyone know where I can get a deal on a couple of dozen toboggans?

About 10 cubic yards compacted expands to???? Where are my college estimating books.

How long did it take your neighbour? Is he bored???
As a temporary measure, what if you turn the deck into a flat roof to direct the water away from the foundation? Or is this a water table problem you are trying to solve? How deep is deck? Any chance a mini-ex can reach to get a lot of it out quickly?
 
@nobbie48 i think it took him 2 weeks or so. Literally every piece of dirt was moved by hand with no machinery.

my cousin rented a mini excavator for a weekend, a buddy that knows what he’s doing and took them 3 days. One small cave in but overall no issues.

my issue is that I have a 4ft concrete pad around the whole house. It would be a LOT of digging by hand, and I’m just putting money away until the inevitable happens.
 
My garage needs some TLC but I did change the lights in there recently to some Costco Artika flat panel LCD lights and the things are awesome. We have since bought 4 more for the rest of the house. They are so thin and sit close to the ceiling that they just look like skylights. Easy to fit too and dimmable if you need them to be.

Not the same model but I have some Artika lights and love them as well


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So..I’m thinking about replacing my 16 year old Rubbermaid 7x7ft shed with an 8x10ft Costco Lifetime brand one. I didn’t put a base in for the Rubbermaid and it did ok ish but for the new one I'd like to put a nice level foundation in. Has anyone used the plastic grid foundation that you fill with gravel? That looks like a nice inexpensive way to get a reasonably solid level foundation with some drainage underneath the shed too. I don’t want to put a concrete pad in as that’s way too much work and putting a lumber foundation in looks like it would be pretty pricey this year.

The Costco shed comes with a floor kit and all reviews state that assembly is vastly easier with a solid level foundation.

I put in an 8x10 several years ago. Framed the base with 4x4s and filled in with gravel. It’s been great, I only wish I had spent a little more time adding another layer of smaller gravel on top to make it more level as it does get some small puddles occasionally.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
 
For me the $650 means no warranty because the job didn't exist. If someone gets hurt they're my employee and can sue. It's a bit back breaking but I figure for two weeks and a few hundred dollars it might be worth it.
Better to just do part of the job in Cash. Maybe 75%. Taxes are still paid. Just less.
 
I put in an 8x10 several years ago. Framed the base with 4x4s and filled in with gravel. It’s been great, I only wish I had spent a little more time adding another layer of smaller gravel on top to make it more level as it does get some small puddles occasionally.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app

Did you just make a rectangle with the lumber and fill the centre with gravel or did you make a grid and fill the gaps? Was yours a resin shed with a plastic floor? Has it stayed level?
 
@nobbie48 i think it took him 2 weeks or so. Literally every piece of dirt was moved by hand with no machinery.

my cousin rented a mini excavator for a weekend, a buddy that knows what he’s doing and took them 3 days. One small cave in but overall no issues.

my issue is that I have a 4ft concrete pad around the whole house. It would be a LOT of digging by hand, and I’m just putting money away until the inevitable happens.

Tunnel under it?:)
 
As a temporary measure, what if you turn the deck into a flat roof to direct the water away from the foundation? Or is this a water table problem you are trying to solve? How deep is deck? Any chance a mini-ex can reach to get a lot of it out quickly?

The water ingress is minor seepage along one wall. It's more nuisance than anything and I don't want to go French drain. Short of adding plywood which would make it look makeshift I don't have a lot of options. The mini ex wouldn't do much. This is a brute force job.

The first part is to see if I can remove and salvage the green pressure treated 2 X 6 decking. At first glance it seems like a nightmare but if spread over a week or two it's not a big deal, hopefully. As an alternate, the ground under the deck could be paved over or a membrane and scrap interlock installed.

The decision hasn't been made yet. I trust the exterior system and although it's a lot more work it's less work than having to redo things.
 

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