Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 64 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

backmarkerducati said:
Ah, missed that part (rental)...

For caulking there is also temporary/removable stuff:
I use it on some of my windows in the fall to stop drafts, remove it in the spring to open windows for summer... It works well for me.

The real sound panels are actually not all that expensive:

Residential - Absorption - Studiofoam - Auralex Acoustics

auralex.com auralex.com
US prices on that site but Long & McQuade has them, prices are for a box not a single panel.
But they will do little to stop low bass from getting outside. You really need vibration isolation and ideally mass for that.

Don't rule out really heavy drapes (maybe with the caulking above on the windows for the drafts), they act as thermal insulation, they help deaden the room, won't usually cause mold problems, block light, are rental friendly, usually fire friendly (no poisonous gas) and don't stop you from getting out but again not much for low bass getting out.


OR go old school with egg cartons... :)
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He needs transmission loss not absorption. You're on the right path with your thinking.
 
There are 10+ of these tiny windows. On days like today, it is freezing down there but very warm upstairs.

https://imgur.com/a/rkNzw0a

I can't do much about the bass traveling up the vents but hopefully, this DIY project will reduce them going through the tiny windows.

These are the speakers ADAM Audio - F7 Active Studio Monitor (Nearfield)


a) https://www.homedepot.ca/product/de...ng-fiberglass-mat-gypsum-sheathing/1000129787
^^ That stuff is Fire Resistant, Mold Resistant and Moisture Resistant

b) Probably get random framing lumber 2x4x8

c) https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rockwool-safe-n-sound-16-inch-o-c-for-2x4-wood-studs/1000421954

d) https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ow...ent-foam-insulation-project-panels/1000845392
^ Or maybe get the higher R value stuff?

e) door handles

f) screws and washers

g) add another sound insulation panel too

Much cheaper than buying 10+ blinds.......
 
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I am not giving up on the drapes.... it will be way cheaper but you will need to sew (or at least use fabric glue) to fit each window :)

Looking at the pics, if you make the "boxes" you can use window/door weather striping to seal around them (as part of the box, around the outside of each box) for the drafts which will make them easily removable without damage when you move or in case of emergency (will also hold them in place). Just takes a bit or precision on the fit for each window.
 
backmarkerducati said:
I am not giving up on the drapes.... it will be way cheaper but you will need to sew (or at least use fabric glue) to fit each window :)

Looking at the pics, if you make the "boxes" you can use window/door weather striping to seal around them (as part of the box, around the outside of each box) for the drafts which will make them easily removable without damage when you move or in case of emergency (will also hold them in place). Just takes a bit or precision on the fit for each window.
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I will look into some heavier drapes :D
 
Carpet done in part of the house. Home Depot has a promo on for free install if you buy the carpet and underlay with them. Pretty sure there’s some install cash baked into the price but every install from HD we had for carpet has been great. This was no exception except for one very weird thing....the installers travelled from Scarborough to do a couple of jobs in Kingston then travelled back. They were super efficient, very courteous, very professional and amazingly fast though.

Next big job are a couple of floors I’m doing myself. One will have a heated floor put in. Any idea what kind of floor I can put above that for best effect? It needs to be wood effect, there will be no concrete pad, I’m looking at getting the heated pad with the foil backer for reflected heat. The floor that goes above it needs to cope with that heated pad. We have a similar floor in the bathroom with a click lock vinyl tile that looks really good but that floor is cables laid in a concrete pad as a heat sink/reservoir.
 
jc100 said:
Carpet done in part of the house. Home Depot has a promo on for free install if you buy the carpet and underlay with them. Pretty sure there’s some install cash baked into the price but every install from HD we had for carpet has been great. This was no exception except for one very weird thing....the installers travelled from Scarborough to do a couple of jobs in Kingston then travelled back. They were super efficient, very courteous, very professional and amazingly fast though.

Next big job are a couple of floors I’m doing myself. One will have a heated floor put in. Any idea what kind of floor I can put above that for best effect? It needs to be wood effect, there will be no concrete pad, I’m looking at getting the heated pad with the foil backer for reflected heat. The floor that goes above it needs to cope with that heated pad. We have a similar floor in the bathroom with a click lock vinyl tile that looks really good but that floor is cables laid in a concrete pad as a heat sink/reservoir.
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@nobbie48 knows more about in ground heat than anyone else here.

Wood look tiles have gotten reasonable looking but they obviously need a morticious base. Not sure what your cement comments mean. Trying to avoid a step up?
 
GreyGhost said:
@nobbie48 knows more about in ground heat than anyone else here.

Wood look tiles have gotten reasonable looking but they obviously need a morticious base. Not sure what your cement comments mean. Trying to avoid a step up?
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Its a big room. Basically I want the ease of install of a floating floor just laid over the bare plywood, plus the added convenience of a heated floor in a portion of the room. I don’t want to have to lay 1/2 inch of self leveling compound for this. Hoping that the reflective backing of the cable kit will push enough heat through whatever is above it to give a decent heating effect. Obviously I don’t think I can use a heavily insulated click-lock or vinyl tile product. Our bathroom tile actually has a cork backer which isn’t ideal but we still get a lot of heat through, enough to warm the room without supplemental heat. That’s the aim for the bedroom.
 
@jc100 my buddy installed beautiful vinyl flooring at their cottage....looks like wood, easy to clean, fairly waterproof and resilient to 3 kids and a dog. Highly recommend. I wish I put it in our cottage instead of laminate.
 
mimico_polak said:
@jc100 my buddy installed beautiful vinyl flooring at their cottage....looks like wood, easy to clean, fairly waterproof and resilient to 3 kids and a dog. Highly recommend. I wish I put it in our cottage instead of laminate.
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I've had a few floors replaced with different materials now. I put down luxury floating vinyl plank myself in one bathroom but we also have glue down vinyl plank and an engineered wood floating floor. They all look pretty good. The LVP is really nice and nowhere near as tacky looking as they used to be years ago.
 
One thing I want to install at the cottage though is the pine ceiling. Clicks in like laminate, looks gorgeous. Really changes the cottage to a real 'cottage' feel.
 
mimico_polak said:
One thing I want to install at the cottage though is the pine ceiling. Clicks in like laminate, looks gorgeous. Really changes the cottage to a real 'cottage' feel.
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Are you talking tongue and groove pine or something that looks like it? Last time I bought some, I got it from somewhere near bancroft (I think a guy with a sawmill in his backyard) for less than half the price of a store. I used it for the ceiling over the bbq.
 
jc100 said:
I've had a few floors replaced with different materials now. I put down luxury floating vinyl plank myself in one bathroom but we also have glue down vinyl plank and an engineered wood floating floor. They all look pretty good. The LVP is really nice and nowhere near as tacky looking as they used to be years ago.
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We just had the LVT put down in our condo instead of going back to real hardwood. I'm pretty impressed. It's a very nice product up close too.

i-PVNSFdZ.jpg
 
I put down some laminate a few years back. Cheap, looks nice, overall good bang for the buck but definitely doesn’t deal well with moisture. I’d probably do something different next time.


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SVeezy said:
I put down some laminate a few years back. Cheap, looks nice, overall good bang for the buck but definitely doesn’t deal well with moisture. I’d probably do something different next time.


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Much better moisture resistance now, can easily use it in kitchens and bathrooms. There’s some really nice stuff out there, Costco has some that’s nearly 1/2 thick with insulated backing and very resilient coatings.
 
mimico_polak said:
One thing I want to install at the cottage though is the pine ceiling. Clicks in like laminate, looks gorgeous. Really changes the cottage to a real 'cottage' feel.
Click to expand...

I put up reclaimed barn wood on one bathroom wall. It looks really nice. Just put it up with a brad nailer in an hour or so.

It was pricey if I remember...it’s a trendy wall covering.
 
GreyGhost said:
Are you talking tongue and groove pine or something that looks like it? Last time I bought some, I got it from somewhere near bancroft (I think a guy with a sawmill in his backyard) for less than half the price of a store. I used it for the ceiling over the bbq.
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Yes that’s the one. Tongue and groove pine. Buddy bought it somewhere near muskoka but I’d like to put it up at our cottage. Looks great.

357BC643-C42A-464B-BD17-C3281DC0228A.jpeg
 
GreyGhost said:
With the crazy prices, a legitimate question is should you renovat/improve the cottage or just use it as it is until you flatten it and start again?
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It’s 600sqft 3 bedroom. I don’t think I’ll be demo and rebuild it as we don’t really need additional space. Even if it’s 2 families there’s plenty of space. Plus 95% of the time is spent outside.

We are considering: drywall, pine ceiling, electrical and bathroom. Plus we got a wood burning fireplace for free so want to install that (about 2k when I saw the price).

insulation and the rest are fine. It’s older wood panelling in good shape but we hate it. Only cosmetic mods.
 
jc100 said:
Its a big room. Basically I want the ease of install of a floating floor just laid over the bare plywood, plus the added convenience of a heated floor in a portion of the room. I don’t want to have to lay 1/2 inch of self leveling compound for this. Hoping that the reflective backing of the cable kit will push enough heat through whatever is above it to give a decent heating effect. Obviously I don’t think I can use a heavily insulated click-lock or vinyl tile product. Our bathroom tile actually has a cork backer which isn’t ideal but we still get a lot of heat through, enough to warm the room without supplemental heat. That’s the aim for the bedroom.
Click to expand...

I have reservations about some methods but have seen installations where a groove is routed into plywood and the cable grouted into the groove. Then put down whatever you want. Just don't nail into the cables. I'm aware of the method because I was investigating cable failures. Hmmmm.

A floor warming cable doesn't get that hot, something like an 18 gauge extension cord running at 15 amperes. However trap it in insulation and temps go up.

Typical load is 10 to 15 watts per square foot.
 
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