Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

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GateKeeper said:
Can you post the link for the hose, I can’t find a natural gas hose in that length, I would like to move my NG BBQ as well
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Here you go. There’s 50ft but quick reading shows the pressure may drop too low as has been mentioned.

barbecuesgalore.ca

3/8” Natural Gas & Propane Hose Male Pipe Thread To Female Flare

3/8" hose comes in 5, 10, 15, & 20 feet. Can be used for both natural gas and propane gas line replacement or extension for gas appliances. Available in Canada
barbecuesgalore.ca barbecuesgalore.ca
 
mimico_polak said:
Here you go. There’s 50ft but quick reading shows the pressure may drop too low as has been mentioned.

barbecuesgalore.ca

3/8” Natural Gas & Propane Hose Male Pipe Thread To Female Flare

3/8" hose comes in 5, 10, 15, & 20 feet. Can be used for both natural gas and propane gas line replacement or extension for gas appliances. Available in Canada
barbecuesgalore.ca barbecuesgalore.ca
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I haven't run the numbers but the hard piping for NG BBQ drops at my house is 1/2". If they could get away with smaller, I assume they would have. NG operates at ridiculously low pressure after the regulator so I wouldn't be surprised if you easily dropped too low on a long run of small pipe/hose.

For the pool heater (250K BTU IIRC) it looks like they ran 1 1/2" pipe underground after the regulator and 1 1/4 above ground. It has no problem maintaining the required gas pressure. A typical BBQ will be 50K to 100K BTU. So 1/2" seems small since that is about 10% of the area and ~30% of the gas flow. I wouldn't expect long 3/8" lines would make people happy.

I know on compressed air lines (which are orders of magnitude higher pressure) 3/8 to 3/4 changes flow rate @ 10% pressure drop per 100' from 30 cfm to ~100 cfm.
 
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Isn't NG pressure in a home something silly like 1 lb? my 2 -30ft hoses quick connected together light the q , that's after a 25ft copper supply running through the house. I have no way to measure output at the appliance , but burgers will catch fire.
 
crankcall said:
Isn't NG pressure in a home something silly like 1 lb? my 2 -30ft hoses quick connected together light the q , that's after a 25ft copper supply running through the house. I have no way to measure output at the appliance , but burgers will catch fire.
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Pool heaters want 4 to 10" water column. 28" wc= 1 psi. So 0.14 to 0.36 psi available while firing. It looks like BBQ's want about 4" wcp.
 
GreyGhost said:
Does anyone do that here? I know it is popular in parts of the US. If I was going that route, I would prefer the slurry route instead of the foam route.
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We had it done at our industrial complex because the sidewalk slabs had sunk. R&R was going to be a bundle and the jacking was far less expensive, faster and less of a nuisance.

I don't like the foam method either. Foam deteriorates. With the slurry method they drill a few holes, about one inch IIRC and they inject the mortar like mix. The nozzle clamps into the drilled hole and when it's pulled out a swipe of a trowel levels the top. You could walk on it right away.

Just check for door swing clearance. Lowering a slab isn't as easy.


We didn't have any problem finding several companies that served Brampton and there wasn't that much equipment on site.
 
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GreyGhost said:
Does anyone do that here? I know it is popular in parts of the US. If I was going that route, I would prefer the slurry route instead of the foam route.
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Yes. I became aware of it from the crapload of flyers that land on my property.
Some good reviews online fwiw.
 
Did that with my dad a while back where our sidewalk dipped.

drilled in, setup a metal frame with a come-a-long to lift, poured mortar below the slab, and lowered it back down. 10 years ago at least and it’s still good.
 
Planning out the bill of materials and making some Solidworks models to cover all the tiny single-panel windows in this basement unit

Hard to describe ??side view??

F...................................................F
| - Option A or Option B - |
|- Insulation Panel - |
| - Sound Material -|
| - Insulation Panel -|
| - Option A or Option B - |

Frame (F) will be ~2-4" thick wood with a door handle. Tempted to stick some wood in the middle but then then I waste surface area ;[



Option A) carpet or some cheap fabric stabled onto the frame
B) Wood panel or peg board?
insulation panel (owens corning #547665)
Soundproofing material (rockwool safe and sound)

Excited!!
 
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george__ said:
Planning out the bill of materials and making some Solidworks models to cover all the tiny single-panel windows in this basement unit

Hard to describe ??side view??

F...................................................F
| - Option A or Option B - |
|- Insulation Panel - |
| - Sound Material -|
| - Insulation Panel -|
| - Option A or Option B - |

Frame (F) will be ~2-4" thick wood with a door handle. Tempted to stick some wood in the middle but then then I waste surface area ;[



Option A) carpet or some cheap fabric stabled onto the frame
B) Wood panel or peg board?
insulation panel (owens corning #547665)
Soundproofing material (rockwool safe and sound)

Excited!!
Click to expand...
Don't use foam. You'll kill yourself in a fire. If you enclose it in drywall it can be ok but you aren't planning on doing that. You can easily end up with moisture issues behind these plugs. Don't you want any light?
 
GreyGhost said:
Don't use foam. You'll kill yourself in a fire. If you enclose it in drywall it can be ok but you aren't planning on doing that. You can easily end up with moisture issues behind these plugs. Don't you want any light?
Click to expand...

That's why I added handle bars so I can remove them at ease

Bass from the the speakers + subwoofer just blasts through the basement unit at the moment and also into much of the backyard :LOL:

Which foam, the sound material?
 
george__ said:
That's why I added handle bars so I can remove them at ease

Bass from the the speakers + subwoofer just blasts through the basement unit at the moment
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Oh, these are noise control not thermal plugs? In that case you need mass, resilience and insulation. I would probably use something like steel studs with drywall on both sides, bulb seals around the edge on each face and batt insulation in the middle. Doesn't need to be roxul, pink or white are roughly equivalent. Building it out of wood without adding resilient channel or making a laminate with foam won't do much.
 
GreyGhost said:
Oh, these are noise control not thermal plugs? In that case you need mass, resilience and insulation. I would probably use something like steel studs with drywall on both sides, bulb seals around the edge on each face and batt insulation in the middle. Doesn't need to be roxul, pink or white are roughly equivalent. Building it out of wood without adding resilient channel or making a laminate with foam won't do much.
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Yes. Priority is NOISE and WIND from getting into the unit

So instead of Option A or Option B sandwich everything in drywall?

Instead of bulb seals would caulking suffice?


This is the DIY I am following How to Build Your Own DIY Acoustic Panels | Black Ghost Audio
 
george__ said:
F...................................................F
| - Option A or Option B - |
|- Insulation Panel - |
| - Sound Material -|
| - Insulation Panel -|
| - Option A or Option B - |

So instead of Option A or Option B sandwich everything in drywall?

Instead of bulb seals would caulking suffice?
Click to expand...
Caulking is better but would be a prick to get out in a fire.

I don't understand your option A and B. Use drywall (probably greenboard so the outside sheet has a fighting chance against the mold factory you are creating behind if you leave them in). I'd put super 6 over the studs on the inside face as well to minimize the swamp factor.

There are lots of options that can work, the key is mass on both sides, absorption in the middle and resilience between the faces to minimize the noise travelling through your framing.
 
I think a better solution is double pain windows and heavy drapes????

If you are set on making something like this, Safe'n'Sound Mineral Wool as the insulation as you noted originally. No fire risk and designed for sound. Concrete board has a higher mass than drywall if you go that route.

​

 
backmarkerducati said:
I think a better solution is double pain windows and heavy drapes????

If you are set on making something like this, Safe'n'Sound Mineral Wool as the insulation as you noted originally. No fire risk and designed for sound. Concrete board has a higher mass than drywall if you go that route.

​

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Rented house. Window swap is probably not in the cards. Cement board could work for noise, harder for someone untrained to work with though and easier to screw up (eg not using epoxy coated screws)
 
FWIW

Years back I installed some windows in a school music room to acoustically isolate the booths, two panes of 1/4" glass set in felt.

A half bath just off our dining room has staggered studs. (2X4's with 2X6 headers and sills) Roxul woven between and double drywall both sides.

I just installed new vinyl windows to replace the old sashless sliders (Circa 1960) and there is a noticeable noise reduction.

How many windows and what size. If I read this right the problem is some poor quality basement windows. The simple solution is to replace the windows with up to date ones at a couple of hundred a piece.
 
It’s a rental so obviously nothing permanent. Get some thick drywall/plywood, cut to size, throw in some insulation in between the sheets and make a frame so it covers the window from from the outside.
Then throw some thick drapes over it to add more sound deadening and you’re good to roll.

if it’s still doing it, add another layer depending on how deep the window frame is.

Always have a way to remove it out quickly in case of emergency.
 
GreyGhost said:
Rented house. Window swap is probably not in the cards. Cement board could work for noise, harder for someone untrained to work with though and easier to screw up (eg not using epoxy coated screws)
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Ah, missed that part (rental)...

For caulking there is also temporary/removable stuff:
I use it on some of my windows in the fall to stop drafts, remove it in the spring to open windows for summer... It works well for me.

The real sound panels are actually not all that expensive:

Residential - Absorption - Studiofoam - Auralex Acoustics

auralex.com auralex.com
US prices on that site but Long & McQuade has them, prices are for a box not a single panel.
But they will do little to stop low bass from getting outside. You really need vibration isolation and ideally mass for that.

Don't rule out really heavy drapes (maybe with the caulking above on the windows for the drafts), they act as thermal insulation, they help deaden the room, won't usually cause mold problems, block light, are rental friendly, usually fire friendly (no poisonous gas) and don't stop you from getting out but again not much for low bass getting out.


OR go old school with egg cartons... :)
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